[no_worries]

Last time I changed my air filter I didn't notice any difference in mpg and that was at 200,000 miles. You're spot on with your analysis of the partially clogged filter. This only makes sense if you think about it. A filter is designed to filter out particles down to a certain size. As the filter becomes clogged, the openings in the media can only get smaller, thus filtering even smaller particles. This continues until the media is so clogged that air flow is too restricted for the engine's needs, at which time it needs to be changed. Clogging of a filter should never allow MORE particles to pass through. This should only happen if you get a tear in the media or the seal loses contact. Both of which can happen with age, especially the seal which will dry out an crack. That's a good reason to change a filter within a certain time, even if you're not showing restriction. I've had a Cummins engineer reiterate the same principles regarding their oil filters. He said I could really go two oil changes per filter if I wanted. They also sell restriction gauges for oil and fuel . I've thought about getting a few.

As far as the overhead goes, I only take mine to a Cummins shop anymore. I let my KW dealer do my first overhead and I lost 1/4 mpg due to overtightening. The next time I went to Cummins and didn't have a problem.

[GMAN]

Originally Posted by Cam

Is setting the valves and checking the jakes a finesse kind of thing better done at Cummins? I'm just really wary right now what I take where to be done. Obviously, you don't want to go to dealership for an oil change. Same time, you don't want TA working on your ECU (computer, whatever it's called) :wink: . One thing I try to pay attention to is going to the place that actually has the parts! If they don't, they've got to send out for them and mark them up and charge for picking them up and stick it in the bill without showing you why the price was so high- thus, my $700 fan clutch.

I had my starter motor replaced at this outdoor shanty shop in Houston. Guy cleaned my battery terminals immaculately. This really happened, the bill was so low I gave the guy more than he was asking for. Just good, decent people there. Spent $500 in labor at Freightliner getting my rear 4 brakes and hubs replaced as well as two slack adjusters. They wanted an hour and a half of labor to install a few zerks. Mechanic confided it would have take 20 minutes. I nixed the zerks.

So then, I came across this guy with a shop on the SC/GA border to do the front brakes and hubs. Labor charge........$80! So, the moral of the story is I'm really trying to figure out who to get to do what. Set the valves, fix the jakes- Cummins? Freightliners?

Cam, I prefer going to the engine dealer, such as Cummins for an overhead. Since my engines are CAT, I usually go to them for my overhead, although I have had one done a the Peterbilt dealer in Amarillo once. Any truck dealer can do it for you. You can go to Freightliner, Peterbilt or any of the others and have the overhead done. As long as they are certified to do the work, it should not be a problem. The reason I prefer to go directly to the engine dealer is that they will be more familiar with the engine and specs. It probably doesn't make a difference, but that is simply a personal preference.

As far as other mechanical work, I try to find people who are independent and charge me for actual time. Many of the dealers will charge by the book. Before they start, they will look the time up in their book. If it says it should take 8 hours to do the work, that is what you are charged. It doesn't matter if it only took 5 hours. I have found good mechanics in different parts of the country and will look them up to do work if I need to do it when near them. Another thing I don't like about some of the larger shops and truck stops is that they charge a "shop fee." This is nothing but a way to jack up the price for the same work. I won't do business with most of them for this reason. It is dishonest. I recently went back to Wingfoot. They are part of Goodyear. This is the first time I have been in that store for about 2 years. I stopped doing business with them due to them starting to charge a shop fee. I told the new manager. He supposedly set it up where I would no longer be charge that fee at any of their stores. These people do all of the Pilot garages in addition to their Wingfoot Tire Stores. According to him, if I stop at any of their garages, the fee will automatically be taken off. I currently get my oil changed at a local truck stop. They are independently owned and have been fair with me on anything they have done. Besides, I prefer doing business with independents. I have gotten my oil changed at Freightliner. We have a large dealer near me. They ran a good deal on them for a while. I try to save when I can. I think Kenworth charges about $300 for an oil change. That is ridiculous! My local truck stop usually charges me less than $200. One thing I have found at some truck dealers is that I will often wind up spending more than is quoted. I have never had that happen at CAT.

If I had a place to work on my trucks, I would probably do the oil changes and lubes myself. Since I don't, I will continue using the local truck stop. I will do minor repairs myself. Anything you can do yourself will put money in your pocket.

[Cam]

Thanks Gentlemen. I'll go to Cummins, you know, they made it!

I've been thinking about a thread where everyone posts the location and phone # of their favorite mechanics along with a little description of what they do. If we do that, the good guys will get the free advertising and we'll get nice little black books about who to call where. Understood, I suspect I'd be the one learning good contacts more than some of you, but I do know a few.

Allan5oh, a stinking pair of snap ring pliers, 6-1/2" convertible nonetheless!?!? In the whole entire world does this do more than just one thing, take off a slack adjuster!? Even shadetree mechanics are using them? :x

[allan5oh]

Originally Posted by Cam

Allan5oh, a stinking pair of snap ring pliers, 6-1/2" convertible nonetheless!?!? In the whole entire world does this do more than just one thing, take off a slack adjuster!? Even shadetree mechanics are using them? :x

Anything that has a snap ring on it :P

Trust me, you want a good high quality unit. The problem isn't taking it off, it's putting it back on!

[Cam]

ops:

[Cam]

Originally Posted by allan5oh

Anything that has a snap ring on it :P

Trust me, you want a good high quality unit. The problem isn't taking it off, it's putting it back on!

Couldn't even find one at the Iowa 80 truckstop. I don't have time to get this in the mail, either.

No_Worries, I did see that Cab Fresh filter over here but it was just a replacement filter, didn't see anything that fits over the whole unit. If I hadn't just paid $25 for a new OEM one I'd have gotten it.

[allan5oh]

Any half-decent automotive place should have it.


Advance auto parts has a bunch on their online site, I'd paste a link, but it'd probably just ask you for the zip code again.

[no_worries]

Yeah, the first time you need to get the filter with the plastic housing. Sometimes they're out of them. For awhile Cab Fresh stopped making the replacement filters and only sold the full housing setup, but I've noticed they've got the replacements for sale again. With the housing runs about $35 I think. I'm not aware of any OEM's that make this type of filter. Remember, Cab Fresh isn't a replacement for the OEM filter, it's in addition to it. It mounts outside the truck, wherever your cab intake is and acts as a primary filter, making your OEM filter a secondary one.

On the issue of engine air filters, you guys that have to change those things frequently must have smaller filters. My element runs almost $150. I'd hate to have to change that thing every few oil changes.

[Cam]

Originally Posted by no_worries

Yeah, the first time you need to get the filter with the plastic housing. Sometimes they're out of them. For awhile Cab Fresh stopped making the replacement filters and only sold the full housing setup, but I've noticed they've got the replacements for sale again. With the housing runs about $35 I think. I'm not aware of any OEM's that make this type of filter. Remember, Cab Fresh isn't a replacement for the OEM filter, it's in addition to it. It mounts outside the truck, wherever your cab intake is and acts as a primary filter, making your OEM filter a secondary one.

On the issue of engine air filters, you guys that have to change those things frequently must have smaller filters. My element runs almost $150. I'd hate to have to change that thing every few oil changes.

What I was looking at was an OEM replacement, they just didn't have the other one. Cost $33, looked a lot better, finer media.

Last year, TA was charging $50 for my filter, this year they raised it to $60.

[heavyhaulerss]

cam. i've been told that you shine a flashlight thru the inside of air filter & if you can see the light thru other outside end, than it's o.k. if light does not penetrate filter than dirty & time to replace. this told to me by williams detroit shop mgr.