Making some changes to my generator's appearance
#71
07-14-2008, 12:51 AM
Originally Posted by Doghouse
Steve also make sure you get the non-ducted model. The one you need has the interior ducting built into to plastic cover. The Ducted unit supplies air through the wall ducts on a class-a rv. So make sure yours in non-ducted.
Putting it in is a breeze, just make sure your hole is as close to a roof support as possible. These units weigh around 80 to 100lbs.
#72
07-14-2008, 12:57 AM
Originally Posted by arky
Steve, if you look at the top of your sleeper, does it have rivets in it? If so, you should be able to see pretty quickly where your roof supports are. As already mentioned, I would get the unit as close to one of these supports as possbile. You might even want to add a new support on the opposite side if there isn't one within a couple of inches of the unit on that side.
If your sleeper is put together with rivets and your looking for a support, look for the one that has two rows of rivets probably 2-1/2" to 3" apart. That will be your stronger support. It's made as sort of a channel with flanges where the rivets go through. In other words, both rows of rivets are fastening to the same support. In the end, just make sure that the weight of the unit isn't going to flex the roof enough to cause a leak later on. There's a good chance you'll end up pulling the headliner, all the supports will be obvious at that point. I would probably hold off having the aluminum plate built until you see what your working with. You might be better served with just adding another piece of factory support. I can probably help you out with finding that if you decide that's what you want to do. I like the roof mount a/c units and would like to install one myself some day. Arky I'll try and take pictures as I go along unless I really F it up then I'll say my camera broke and the A/C came out perfect. I'll first ask the RV dealer if they can do it right away. I just need it installed and I'll do the rest. I still have plenty of wire nuts and splice thingies.
#73
07-14-2008, 02:20 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The other side of the coin
Posts: 9,368
Originally Posted by NotSteve
I may not need a thermostat. I plan to plug the unit into my Rigmaster then set the automatic control on it's thermostat so when the temp is correct the unit shuts off and so will the overhead unit also.
#74
07-14-2008, 02:48 AM
Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago
Originally Posted by NotSteve
I may not need a thermostat. I plan to plug the unit into my Rigmaster then set the automatic control on it's thermostat so when the temp is correct the unit shuts off and so will the overhead unit also. No, there is a delay built into the Rigmaster to wait until it comes up to speed. Same thing with the A/C, it waits until the engine is up and running for about 15 seconds before anything kicks in. Also, for those who don't have that feature you can buy an inline capacitor that will delay voltage for a time dependent on the size of the cap.
#75
07-14-2008, 03:44 AM
Heavy Duty, I like that APU. It's small and fuel efficient according to their claims.
Not Steve said:
That's a nice freaking truck in your avatar for sure!!!!!!!!
#76
07-14-2008, 04:34 AM
1st rev let me say that i like it and for what you have in it it's a great deal and much better than 9k-11k to do the same thing. and after you have the louvers on it it will look just as good or better than most of the units i see on the road.
even if you have to replace the a/c unit every year (and that may happen as they are not made to take the bumps and vibrations) you will still be way ahead. look at it this way you have about $2100 in the whole thing and if you had to replace it all every other year you will still be way ahead of what it would cost to have a rigmaster. we all know that the rigmaster is not going to go 5-6 years without needing work. the only thing i don't care for is the exhaust but NOT for the reasons other have said what you have looks good and painted black it will look even better. what i don't care for is the same thing i don't like about most apu's and that is having the exhaust down low, sometimes when we are parked and the truck next to us has an apu running we can smell it in our sleeper. but i do understand on YOUR truck you can't run it up next to your stack and with it running all the way to the back it may be better at not building up exhaust under and between your truck and the one's next to you. you also may want to check around and see if you can find a cylinder head temp gauge. they epoxy onto the cylinder head and just wire to a gauge in the truck, that way you can check anytime to make sure the engine is not running to hot. i have one on my boat that has an alarm if it get's to hot and will shutdown the motor. btw it's a bad idea to tie an apu exhaust INTO the trucks stack, engine exhaust back pressure will flow into the apu's engine. if you DO decide to mount the a/c under the bed i can give you some ideas and how to hide the air ducts. as i said i like it and saving $7-9k is always a good thing
#77
07-14-2008, 04:43 AM
BanditsCousin, I called. They asked me $5100 for that Rigmaster LOL. I laughed and told them a new one wasn't much more than that.
Oh well...thx for the lead. Their all worth followng up on. I've got some real bargains like that over the years. Oh btw Rev. I apologize for myself and others who have apparently hijacked the heck out of your thread LOL...... sorry dude
#78
07-14-2008, 05:47 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The other side of the coin
Posts: 9,368
Originally Posted by Heavy Duty
Not Steve said:
That's a nice freaking truck in your avatar for sure!!!!!!!!
#79
07-14-2008, 05:52 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The other side of the coin
Posts: 9,368
Originally Posted by arky
Oh btw Rev. I apologize for myself and others who have apparently hijacked the heck out of your thread LOL...... sorry dude I'm sitting at Peterbilt right now waiting for the truck to head into the shop. The system should be up and running by this afternoon. I had them look over everything, and they couldn't find any issues with how I have it set up, which is a good thing. They also mentioned something about the cylinder head temps, so I may end up having to do something, depending upon what sort of temps I am seeing with the unit running. They said that I should run the system with the box open for a while, and check the temps. Then I should close the box, run the system for the same amount of time, and re-check the temps. If the temps inside the box continue to rise (don't level off), then I have an airflow issue that needs to be solved. |
