[Red Clay Rambler]

Steve,

RV roof air units need a re-inforcement under the opening where they are mounted, usually just 2x4's forming a "box" right underneath the roof hole. If you do it yourself, please talk to a couple of RV shops for tips before you start.

[Rev.Vassago]

Originally Posted by NotSteve

I just ordered the Carrier 20,000 btu roof unit. Should be here next week when I get home. Now, where did I put that hacksaw.

Remember - measure once, cut twice. If you cut too big, get the superglue.

Carrier makes a good unit. I was going to get the low profile model if I had the room for it on top of my sleeper. It costs a few hundred more, but the height is a lot lower.

Originally Posted by Red Clay Rambler

Steve,

RV roof air units need a re-inforcement under the opening where they are mounted, usually just 2x4's forming a "box" right underneath the roof hole. If you do it yourself, please talk to a couple of RV shops for tips before you start.

And make sure you have plenty of home wiring connectors. :lol:

(I can't believe nobody has said anything about that to me yet....)


So I now have an in-line fuel filter ($3.50), and an infrared thermometer ($49.99). I stopped at the audio shop where I got the sound deadening material to pick up some more ($40.00 for two sheets), and they pulled the specs on it. It is rated to 400 degrees, so I shouldn't have any issues with it burning(thank goodness).

I think the AC units that the APU companies use are simply inefficient. I've heard of guys with 15,000 BTU APU's who have trouble cooling their cabs, and right next to them there is a guy who has a 12,000 BTU roof mount unit who is freezing himself out of the cab. While I'm sure that 15,000 BTU unit is cooling more, I think they aren't as good at moving that cooled air. That's one of the nice things about where I've got my AC unit located right now - it's blowing right on me, so I'm getting the full effect of it.

[Dispatch_This]

The exhaust runs the entire length of the frame, and exits out the back.


Rev, I would double-check that routing and make sure you don't have exhaust fumes rising up, seeping into the trailer through floor seams, and along the bump rail. Nothing like getting a food-grade load rejected because the trailer is full of exhaust when you open the doors at the receiver.

[Rev.Vassago]

Originally Posted by Dispatch_This

Rev, I would double-check that routing and make sure you don't have exhaust fumes rising up, seeping into the trailer through floor seams, and along the bump rail. Nothing like getting a food-grade load rejected because the trailer is full of exhaust when you open the doors at the receiver.

That's something I never considered, but thanks for the tip. Since I don't haul food grade, that's not much of an issue, but a trailer full of exhaust doesn't sound fun. I suppose I could find another place to have the exhaust exit if it becomes an issue.

[NotSteve]

Originally Posted by Red Clay Rambler

Steve,

RV roof air units need a re-inforcement under the opening where they are mounted, usually just 2x4's forming a "box" right underneath the roof hole. If you do it yourself, please talk to a couple of RV shops for tips before you start.

Yup, thanks. I read the installation brochure and it needs a 14x14 frame 1" thick which I will have my local machine shop make out of aluminum.

The Rigmaster generator has 2 20amp outputs on it. One goes to your inside cab and the other is used for your engine block heater so that works out well since I won't be using the block heater the same time as the A/C.

[NotSteve]

Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago

Remember - measure once, cut twice. If you cut too big, get the superglue.

Measure once, cut twice, measure once, cut twice. Got it.

Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago

And make sure you have plenty of home wiring connectors. :lol:
(I can't believe nobody has said anything about that to me yet....)

Ya, NO SH**

Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago

it's blowing right on me, so I'm getting the full effect of it.

Yup, there is nothing like getting blown directly, can't argue with you there.

[Rev.Vassago]

Originally Posted by NotSteve

The Rigmaster generator has 2 20amp outputs on it. One goes to your inside cab and the other is used for your engine block heater so that works out well since I won't be using the block heater the same time as the A/C.

You don't use your block heater and the AC at the same time? What kind of hobby trucker are you?

Originally Posted by NotSteve

Yup, there is nothing like getting blown directly, can't argue with you there.

I knew that was coming. Get it? Coming? I'll be here all week. Try the veal.

[Doghouse]

Steve also make sure you get the non-ducted model. The one you need has the interior ducting built into to plastic cover. The Ducted unit supplies air through the wall ducts on a class-a rv. So make sure yours in non-ducted.
Putting it in is a breeze, just make sure your hole is as close to a roof support as possible. These units weigh around 80 to 100lbs.

[Kranky]

Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago

That kind of defeats the purpose of installing the generator in the first place, now doesn't it?

It's mounted to a cabinet door, and has been there for about 2 years now. I've never had any problems with it.

It would only be a problem if it was in Peacekeeper's truck.

:lol:

[Dejanh]

One of the best things i have seen so far in this buisiness, very clean and very nice and just look at how much it ran...


Props up, thats all am gonna say... :!: