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  #21  
Old 08-02-2008, 01:33 PM
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The trailer I bought came with straps and 4x4's. I do need a bar though.
The guy I'm set up with gave me the list of items and that's what he carries however it wouldn't cost much more to add two more chains and binders for added piece of mind. Thanks for spending my money GMAN :wink: .

I can get carpet for free if I ask around, but what do you cut them up in, like one foot by one foot squares?
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2008, 02:05 PM
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I started off with two steel tarps, 16' x 24' (four foot drops). Best price I found was $165 each at http://www.myteeproducts.com/Steel-Tarps-c-6.html

They are fairly lightweight at 60 lbs.

I miss out on a few loads from not having 6 or 8 foot drops but not many. It seems to me that most of these loads are lumber and they don't pay enough anyway.

With the way these tarps have d rings around all four sides, you can turn them sideways and make 8' drops out of them, although it would take at least three of them to cover the length of my trailer, and that's without end flaps and no overlap.

Eventually I'll buy a third 4' steel tarp so that I'll have the option of turning them and taking 8' tarp loads, though as I said I don't think there is a huge advantage there.
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2008, 02:36 PM
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That's a nice price on the super light weight tarp from MyTee. Can I get some opinions on this set
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2008, 04:40 PM
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I think EAST would make a good flatbed. I dont knowu much about faltbeds but i know EAST makes one hell of a dump trailer/ dump body.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2008, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RostyC
The trailer I bought came with straps and 4x4's. I do need a bar though.
The guy I'm set up with gave me the list of items and that's what he carries however it wouldn't cost much more to add two more chains and binders for added piece of mind. Thanks for spending my money GMAN :wink: .

I can get carpet for free if I ask around, but what do you cut them up in, like one foot by one foot squares?

It is always easier to spend someone else money, RostyC. :wink:

I would cut them up in 6" x 12" strips. It would also be good to have some larger pieces of carpet for some loads. There always seems to be a few loads that will tear your tarps no matter how well you pad the product. Another thing you may want to keep in the truck is a roll or two of duct tape. I will sometimes use the duct tape to secure the carpet or matting to prevent it from moving under the tarp. Another thing that is good for padding is old straps. I will sometimes cut them up in 6" strips and use them under my straps. They work pretty well. In most cases you are protecting your tarps with the padding, not the product.
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2008, 06:57 PM
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GMAN,

In general stepdeck operations, is there enough tall freight to justify having the low deck, 36" deck height, w/17.5" tires, rather the 42" deck height w/22.5" tires? Is additional wear/maintenance on the 17.5's an issue ?

Same question in regards to a 40' lower deck w/can locks. Is there enough need, hauling in general operations to justify it, if pulling cans is not the regular haul ?

How about ramps and load levelers. I realize that one can not be prepared for every posible load, but what is a reasonable level of special gear to have onboard for general operations ? (not counting chains, straps, tarps, etc.)

Thanks.
Ray
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  #27  
Old 08-02-2008, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxman2001
Also I've been looking at used trailers and notice some have a dump valve or lift axle. which is better? Are these useful options?

also some have a gauge on the trailer. what is that used for..Hope these are not stupid questions..

thanks again guys
I'm new and am not a truck driver but I'll try to answer the questions.

These spread axle trailers are difficult to turn and back up in tight spots. If you have the dunp valve it will take pressure off an axle so you can turn easier or backup. I think it is only for low speed. My dad bought a used trailer and the dunp valves did not work. We worked a few hours to get it working so when I took the dot skills test the alley park would be easier. If your tractor isn't wired for the dunp it is easy to wire up. You just need a switch and a 12 volt source to make it work.

The gauge I think works on air pressure. The more pressure in your air bags the higher the gauge. You should be able to tell fairly accurately how much weight is loaded by the gauge.
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  #28  
Old 08-02-2008, 10:41 PM
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Fikes contractors have the option to lease a Utility spread-axle flatbed if they don't own one when they sign on. I leased an '06 flatbed combo with lo-pro 24.5 tires and it came with 12 winches. No complaints here, although it didn't come set up to dump the back axle, and that would have been nice.
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2008, 12:52 AM
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Basicaly it comes down to the more specalicsed you get the better the rate. If you have a straight Plane Jane flat it will be one rate, a spread flat (40,000 on the rear) will be another, straight step fixed tandems will be another, etc, etc.
I just help'd a friend get into trucking and got him into a 53 foot Doonan low step. Beavertail with ramps, ramps to top deck. Three axle set up to where you can raise any axle. He can haul most DD loads that are posted if he wants to and a bunch of weight as he has a light truck.
Just called him and he is waiting to get into Az (curfew) with a load paying $5.28 a mile out of Ca to Al, only 9.8 wide 14 high
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  #30  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMAN
I usually don't haul as heavy loads as most will on a flat bed.
Do you mean you haul heavy stuff more often on the flatbed than on the stepdeck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMAN
I do better with my step deck than some due to the fact that it is a 53' with a 42' lower deck. That enables me to be more flexible with my loads.
Gman, is your 53' stepdeck a tridem or just regular tandem? Which would be better for hauling machinery and equipment, if I don't want to haul very heavy loads? Thanks.
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