You could block the cab air ride and make it solid. No more flex problems.

 

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
LOL...but what about his new back and kidney problems?? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

The money I save from not idling can go towards the medical bills.

 

Well Winter is upon us and now I only have to worry about a backup alternator, so on those cloudy days I can charge up my batteries with my APU instead of the main engine. So I am replacing the 110v gen head with a 200amp alternator that way when the APU runs it charges my batteries and preheats my engine. I'm done trying to get 110v power out of this thing.


Rev, why not just run your exhaust to the back of the frame?

 

:lol: You mean where I had it originally and everyone told me was a horrible place to put it because all the fumes would go up in the trailer? :lol:

I have a potential fix for the problem, and will be working on it tomorrow when I actually have time during daylight hours. The last time I was home, my stepdad gave me some flexible tubing that they use in the steel foundry. I am going to attempt to use this tubing as a short piece of exhaust tube to connect the flex pipe to the muffler. It is good for 2500 degrees and can withstand molten iron, so it should be strong enough. Assuming I can actually clamp it down.

So it will go from the muffler to the flexible tubing to the flex pipe to the straight pipe. The straight pipe and flex pipe seem to be holding up fine where they are - it's just that I need something more flexible to run between the flex pipe and the muffler for when I'm driving down the road. If this doesn't work, then I will run a straight pipe down the frame. I really don't want to have the exhaust down by the ground, though, because it is a nasty smell. I hate grass burner exhausts.

 

Oops I have a flat, fumes don't make any diff. to me. What about letting the pipe slide up and down in the clamps?
Or running a long horizontal of flex (make it run it under the truck and then backtrack if you have to) to the verticle, it would have more range to move around.

 

Then it messes up the back of my sleeper.
I had plenty of flex pipe under there, but I think the problem was it was welded to a very thin, very small exhaust pipe that was never designed to have stuff welded to it, and therefore it got weak.

I put the flexible hose on this morning (finally), and gave it a short test run. The exhaust is definitely going up the stack, as the stack was getting nice and warm. I smelled no fumes standing next to the generator, so if there are any leaks, they are minimal (I expected some leakage because the hose is 1 1/2", and the muffler tailpipe is 3/4", so it is kinda squished around the tailpipe). The noise is at a respectable volume, and the box is staying nice and cool (I couldn't get the temp in the box above 75 degrees - it is 65 degrees outside). The generator was staying at 112 degrees, which leads me to believe I have decent exhaust flow. When I had that 90 degree bend in it, I was getting temps upwards of 165 degrees.

Now the real test - will the exhaust system handle moving down the highway.

 

I really don't understand why you don't run a standard exhaust pipe for a car down the rail of your frame like I did and be done with it. There is no movement because the generator is part of that frame also. Then mount a real muffler with the tip pointing out the back. I smelled exhaust once in a while from the standard muffler on my Rigmaster until I had it modified.

 

What fun would that be?

 

Steve is right on this one, did the same with my rigmaster, no problems, no smell, no noise. It has worked fine since installation several months ago