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  #21  
Old 12-18-2007, 03:11 AM
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You've heard all the cautions, so no need to make any further comments in that regard.

If you want to have the option to chain up...it is a simple process.
The most important part is to buy the right size chains for your tire/tires and wheels. I like the double chains myself. You need a good set of chain adjuster's too. If one of those chains come off, they can really cause some damage to your rig quick. If you do use chains, inspect them close, and repair any bad links, or replace the whole set.

Here are a few links showing the basics. I carry a set of insulated Carhart coveralls, for the chain up work.

I don't mind chaining up in below zero temperatures... because I know the colder it gets, the better my traction is going to be. If it is any warmer, I might decide chaining up is foolish. You have to weigh a number of factors in making your judgment call.

http://www.tirechain.com/tire_chainm...structions.htm
http://www.tirechain.com/TireChainParts.htm
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  #22  
Old 12-18-2007, 03:51 AM
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Completely disregard that first link that Hog posted !

No offence Hog.

Do not lay your chains down and try to pull them over your tires !

Link # 2 Shows how to put them over your tires and back / drive onto them.

Yah, I forgot about those cams that tighten your chains.

Same process, you need a little wrench thing to turn the cam, they work good too.


Put the chains over the tires, and back onto the bit of chain laying on the ground, (the 60% side)... taking care not to park on a side rail...


Stop it with the ramps and crap !


I'm gona have to make a video, :shock:
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  #23  
Old 12-18-2007, 04:07 AM
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the only problem I've seen with the drape over the tire method-is what happens if the chain slides down/falls off the tire as it's turning-while you're rolling onto the end.

yeah--the lay the chain down in the snow/ice/ frost--isn't very good idea either---kinda sticks don't it.


ramps....ramps...ramps...Big crane to pick up the tractor......... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hey, if the ramps drive you nuts----how about this idea----let the air out of your tires--strap on the chains real tight----then air the tires back up!!(this is a joke) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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  #24  
Old 12-18-2007, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headborg
the only problem I've seen with the drape over the tire method-is what happens if the chain slides down/falls off the tire as it's turning-while you're rolling onto the end.

yeah--the lay the chain down in the snow/ice/ frost--isn't very good idea either---kinda sticks don't it.


ramps....ramps...ramps...Big crane to pick up the tractor......... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hey, if the ramps drive you nuts----how about this idea----let the air out of your tires--strap on the chains real tight----then air the tires back up!!(this is a joke) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

If centrifugal force is a problem then you are going to fast.

The biggest problem I have seen is the chains are the wrong size. The old say "One size doesn't fit all." Adjust the length by adding or removing links.

The few times I had to put on chains and I do mean FEW times I used the drape method. To keep them from falling off I had a bungee through the wheel holding the ends together.

kc0iv
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2007, 03:40 AM
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I was told once, the reason for the bungees is to pull the chains off on the outside of the wheels if they ever decide to work there way off. You do not want them coming off on the inside.

You would likely have to cut them apart to ever get them out.
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  #26  
Old 12-20-2007, 09:48 PM
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*wolf whistle* pretty truck :shock: :shock: :shock: :wink:
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  #27  
Old 12-21-2007, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerboy
I was told once, the reason for the bungees is to pull the chains off on the outside of the wheels if they ever decide to work there way off. You do not want them coming off on the inside.

You would likely have to cut them apart to ever get them out.
Different stroke's I guess.

I always chained up like Colt does...3 railer's on the drivers. When I sized my chains for my truck each year, I made certain that I had only 3 extra side links, so as to avoid slapping the fenders with long tails. I put 3 bungees on the outside of the wheel, with each bungee crossing at the center. I also bungeed the inside of the wheel as well, only I used 2 there. One was hooked at the first rail link after the lock, to keep tension pulled against the lock, and the second was placed on the opposite side of the tire(and axle), and parallel to the first. I did this to keep that inside portion snug, and to keep it form sliding into the center of the duals, if it were to break a side rail.

When I chained up, I checked for proper snugness 200 to 300 yards down the road from where I chained up. Run the chains just enough to get them settled onto the tire, then adjust as needed. A properly mounted chain, should be able to be lifted far enough off of the tire tread, to slide your fingers under the cross link, with out scrapping skin. To much slack in a cross link can cause you to break a link just as fast as to snug a cross link. Cross links that are to snug break as soon as you apply power on a grade.

Colt is right...25 minutes should have you chained on both drive axles, plus a drag on a trailer axle.....and a cup of coffee to warm up.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2007, 10:58 AM
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Orangetxguy I live in Vidor how long you been trucking and where did you get your CDL around here?
I work at Evadale mill right now but sure been thinking about trucking here lately.

Anyway,just wanted to know living around SE Texas where and who the best beginner companies would be.
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2007, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scania
Orangetxguy I live in Vidor how long you been trucking and where did you get your CDL around here?
I work at Evadale mill right now but sure been thinking about trucking here lately.

Anyway,just wanted to know living around SE Texas where and who the best beginner companies would be.
I've been driving professionally since 1978. I got my "cdl" when it was just called a class A, in Montana, in 1975, right after High School. The rancher I worked for signed off on my ability to drive truck..he taught me.

If your going to get a CDL, do it through LIT in Beaumont. Much cheaper for you, and the state will finance it. Just wondering though...with all the plant expansion's going on in the area..why get a cdl? SETXWorkforce would train ya up for any number pf positions in a different plant, if your unhappy at Evadale.

Best of Luck
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2007, 03:13 PM
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Colt you dink, is that my truck? For crying out loud its been over a year, get over my chains being loose. They got me up the hill without moving.

And headborg stop saying HE. And if you look, you can clearly see the chain is hooked. There are no bunji's anywhere but what you see, obviously they were fastened. And of course I rolled back on them, if I didn't how the heck would they be under the tire? uhhh

If it wasn't for the dumb American sitting in the hill for the previous 18 hours because his one wimpy set of chains busted all to sh*t, and the sander couldn't drop sand beside him for fear of chipping his precious shiny truck, I wouldn't have needed them anyway.

Anyway, now that I run Super Bs again, and actually have to pull the chains off the rack more than once every 3 years, I have good chains that fit, tighten properly, and do not require bunjis at all.

So tired of that picture Colt. And for the record again, I MADE IT UP THE HILL. This is me at the top getting ready to take em off. Sheesh.

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