[wot i life]

http://www.airhorns.co.uk/default.as...KKGKLDI&xdid=2

[headborg]

Ok, hey guys & gals

specifically @ LadyNorthStar & RockyMtProDriver

I'm going shopping for bungi's---better to be prepared in case I HAVE to Chain. And Honestly, the only times I've chained up are on dry pavement for training & practice, and to just "get out of trouble"(like stuck under a dropped trailer-once).

Point being, I have never actually driven very far with a pair-----how many bungi's do I really need--to really keep 'em secure?

Just in case;

[jroqueman]

I have put chains on a few times. I will never put chains on again. I put them on my first truck twice. I will never put them on my truck now. If the chain law is in effect, I park. I am not a chicken to drive in ice, I just do not want to damage my equipment. If you do not get the chains on just right, or run too fast, you will throw the chain off. I am not going to damage my fenders or anything else on my truck.

It is a lot of work to chain, and not worth it. There is no load that is important enough for me to chain up. I carry them to appease the law, that is all. There is some chain up law information on coopsareopen.com if you are curious about fines ect.

[headborg]

Originally Posted by jroqueman

I have put chains on a few times. I will never put chains on again. I put them on my first truck twice. I will never put them on my truck now. If the chain law is in effect, I park. I am not a chicken to drive in ice, I just do not want to damage my equipment. If you do not get the chains on just right, or run too fast, you will throw the chain off. I am not going to damage my fenders or anything else on my truck.

It is a lot of work to chain, and not worth it. There is no load that is important enough for me to chain up. I carry them to appease the law, that is all. There is some chain up law information on coopsareopen.com if you are curious about fines ect.

Heck, that's a pretty truck----I wouldn't want to 'damage' it either.

[COLT]

Poorly installed chains like this would need allot of bungi's to make a difference...




Centrifugal force on the chain would surely overpower the bungi's

Chains are soo easy to put on, 10 min. is more than enough time to chain all tires on one axle, without getting dirty.

Practice, practice practice :wink:

[countryhorseman]

Originally Posted by scania

Are you gentlemen saying you're good enough to not need them or are you saying park it if you need them?

Nope, they are saying if the conditions are bad enough to need chains, PARK the truck! Especially if you are new to the industry. The risk is not worth it! Most companies that travel the northwest will assign chains, because of the carry laws u there, but most now will not allow you to use them.

[Roadhog]

So far there have been only three Passes that got me. Snoqualmie, 4th of July, and Donner. Snoqualmie coming out of Tacoma eastbound, was the worst one. It snowed like 10" real quick, and it was that slushy greasy crap. I barely made it to the summit, with my axles locked. There were Trucks stopped in their lanes, unable to keep going. I expected the same fate. I chained up at the summit and inched down the backside. Down at the base, there was a scalehouse, and all trucks were wearing chains, but wisely not going to tackle that mountain pass until it got plowed and sanded.
It's not a long pass, but if you aren't required chains going up, that doesn't mean, you won't need them to continue on. You at best drive 30-35 mph with chains. Hell...I was happy going 20.
Once I got through that pass, I was ahead of the low front bringing the snow, and hammered down from there.

Doesn't need to be a steep grade though. One time coming through S. Dakota, I was in freezing fog. I had to continually use my wipers with the washers to cut the ice build up. I found a safe place to park as soon as I could. Sure enough, when I got out of the Truck, the road was so slick, I could barely walk on it. I waited for a couple saltshakers to emerge out of the fog, and got behind them, until I got up to a Truck Stop. The next day conditions were better. I really didn't loose much of my schedule.

[headborg]

Originally Posted by COLT

Poorly installed chains like this would need allot of bungi's to make a difference...




Centrifugal force on the chain would surely overpower the bungi's

Chains are soo easy to put on, 10 min. is more than enough time to chain all tires on one axle, without getting dirty.

Practice, practice practice :wink:

from that pic: clearly he doesn't have enough a side cable tensioner- or enough bunge's, doesn't even look like he's got the chains fastened up---looks like he just threw them over the tire-
didn't roll back on them either.
do you dig out a channel in the ice to lay your chains--then roll back over them--or use some kind of ramp/holder-to get tire up on?
or just brute force----with one of these?



would you recommend the Linkmaster Tire Chain Tool?

do you use a rachet binder- or compression binder--or just a brute force lever binder?

[COLT]

Those are chain pliers, for changing cross rails, hooks, boomers...

Good to have, without spare parts, useless.

All this crazy talk about blocks of wood, channels in the ice, ramps, holders... ????

I found a good diagram with instructions for you guy's, scanned it and tried to put it on Photobucket... Couldn't get it to work as it was a pdf file or something.

I, and everyone I know use triple rail chains ( for two tires ) imported from Norway, very expensive and very good.

Not knowing what kind of chains are used for your type of work, I'll briefly explain how chains are thrown on.

Pick the chain up leaving 60% of the chain on the side you will be driving on, I would suggest backing onto your chains because if you've spun-out climbing a hill, you won't be pulling forward onto your chains :wink:

So throw your chain on the tire,( all tires to be chained ) straiten out the cross rails making sure you won't back onto the side rail chain.

Back up 1/2 tire rotation, ( chain ends should be at the 1:00 position now ) hook chain ends hand tight, roll ahead, or back 20 ft. and re tighten. This re tighten is important, you'll be amazed how much more you can tighten after the chains roll out a bit. :wink:

It's that easy

P.S. Don't run over your boomers or what ever tightens your chains.

[headborg]

Originally Posted by COLT

All this crazy talk about blocks of wood, channels in the ice, ramps, holders... ????


Pick the chain up leaving 60% of the chain on the side you will be driving on,

P.S. Don't run over your boomers or what ever tightens your
chains.

Ok, can you make that a little clearer--{the Pick the chain up leaving 60% of the..........." }

I can't visualize what you mean by that...everything else is pretty clear cut--

I've seen people lay the whole chain out in a straight line then back on them-
I've seen instruction videos where you drape the chain over the tires---first- then roll back on them.

I've done it this way in practice;

lay out about 16'' of chain--with the first cross link at the back of the tire--- leave the rest in a neat pile. Roll back on the chain---then drape the rest of the chain over the tire....and go from there.

I didn't say anything about "blocks of wood"---but I've seen these used to-

the ramp I mentioned is a little 3inch high ramp- with a channel in the center-for the cross link to rest in---you back up on this--the idea being to get the weight of the tire OFF the chain so to make it easier to tighten down the chain around the tire.
the channeling out the packed ice/snow and laying the chain in it does the same thing.

Rolling the inner tire up onto a block of wood ( like the mechanic does when breaking a outside tire off the rim) also allows this.

But all this crap--when it's -10 outside and wet---make the job an all night affair.

Ok, what you're calling a boomer/// that site that makes & sells tire chain accessories ----- makes & sells--- different 'binders' compression, ratchet, and lever(boomer) all for chaining. that thing I posted picture is "like" the smaller tool--for repairing chains. ---But is was advertised as being used for installing chains(like a boomer)---price $139.00

Most of us Company drivers down here in the lower 48---have single chains, not (duel) chains like you have.

At this point; getting the chains on---isn't my real concern---but it's nice
to compare notes--especially from a Pro( like yourself) who gets lots of practice--in HARSH conditions.
What I am concerned with is KEEPING THEM ON

so, how many bunge cords do you recommend having on hand?

(2) what's the best technique for applying tension to the chains on the (inner) tire chains------given many of us are using single tire chains.

cable tensioner???