[golfhobo]

Originally Posted by Syncrosonix

i'm not trying to trample all over him. that isn't my goal in this thread.

Well it wasn't my goal either, and I DID try to stay out of it. And, heck... I could be wrong and it could be possible that the very BEST thing to use on rusty rails is a combination of DEGREASER agents! :rolleyes: But, it just struck me as being ridiculous. And, in case the O.P. doesn't know.... I meant the collective "you" when I asked if he was crazy!

Me? If I couldn't find the everpresent can of WD-40, I'd try cocoa butter or Nivea or something before I'd say, Hey! let me see if I can get them squeaky clean with Dawn! Of course.... part of what binds them up is dirt and road grime, so..... you just never know!

[Jumbo]

Originally Posted by belpre122

Heh heh HB. Since when has anyone ever cared about what will happen when the next driver is unfortunate enough to be assigned the piece of crap trailer that you have just gotten rid of.

I would be happy if these aholes would just pull the nails out of the floors.

[headborg]

Originally Posted by golfhobo

Well.... I'm sure others here know way more than ME about this but...

If you have air retracted pins, make sure you spray the silicone all around them and deep into the hole. If you have the "linkage" type (raise a bar and they are mechanically retracted,) do that AND get under the trailer and spray all the linkages you can find. If those parts aren't moving freely, they may not move completely to the necessary point for retraction. (also inspect them. I had one that was broken once and not even pulling on the pin.)

Now.... are you sure they are not in a bind? If the rail is binding against the side of the pin, it won't retract easily. May need to jump in and push back or pull forward.... sometimes even a little wiggle of both.

Make sure your trailer tandems are on level ground. If one side is higher than the other, or even if your DRIVES are, you can have the whole mechanism in a bind. You may have 2 or 3 pins that "want" to retract freely, but they are linked to one or two others that are in a bind because your trailer is "racked."

And, when all else fails.... get a bigger hammer!

exactly...very good advise..hobo this usually causes the tandem pins to bind up( I'd include also you need to be on Level ground-- trying to slide tandems after you've backed down the dock slope- puts the front pins in a bind as well. The same advice also applies to trying to get your trailer doors Closed-- it won't happen if the tractor/trailer is ****ed.

[Orangetxguy]

:clap::clap::clap::clap:

Very good advise given for adjusting the sliders, and unsticking pins!! :bow::bow::bow::bow:



:moon::moon::moon::moon:

I pull tanks, so I don't have to worry about sliding tandems! I have my fifth wheel set just right now..so it doesn't need to slide!! :lol::lol::lol::lol:

[golfhobo]

Originally Posted by cdswans

Keep a pair of vice grips handy in the event the pins will retract but the release handle won't stay "locked out" . . pull the handle all the way out, lock it in place with the vice grips and slide to your hearts content . .

Once again, I may not know all about this, it has only happened a few times to me but....

In my experience, what keeps the PIN release knob from staying "out" is not having the tanks fully charged with air. Many trailers automatically "dump" air from the supension when the brakes are set.... others just LEAK. When you supply air to pull away from the dock, it can sometimes take awhile for the tanks to fully "charge." It only takes a few seconds to get far enough away to attempt sliding the tandems.... at which point, the trailer supply knob is "pulled" to set the tandem brakes again (depriving the other systems from supply air.)

IF I understand the system correctly, if the tanks are not fully charged and the suspension is not fully raised, the release knob for the pins will not stay out. Vicegrips will work in most situations, but in my experience, so will a short drive away from the dock allowing a full charge of air. Once this occurs, I have never had a problem with a knob not staying out and releasing the pins.

I used to get mad as HECK at the dang thing until I figured out that it was tied to whether the suspension had raised fully yet. Of course, as I said.... it was a one in a hundred type thing, and I may be wrong!

I can't give you a technical explanation for the whole system, but I believe there are one-way cutoff valves involved that will only activate when a certain pressure is reached on the other side. Note that the pin release valve is the FIRST valve in the system after the tractor protection valve, so once you POP the trailer supply valve in the truck, the air pressure that passes through IT (pin release valve) is dissipated.

Can any of you oldtimers tell me if I am even close on this? It seems to be a problem that MANY new drivers have.... and if I have mislead anyone, I apologize.

Hobo

[got mud?]

Originally Posted by golfhobo

Once again, I may not know all about this, it has only happened a few times to me but....

In my experience, what keeps the PIN release knob from staying "out" is not having the tanks fully charged with air. Many trailers automatically "dump" air from the supension when the brakes are set.... others just LEAK. When you supply air to pull away from the dock, it can sometimes take awhile for the tanks to fully "charge." It only takes a few seconds to get far enough away to attempt sliding the tandems.... at which point, the trailer supply knob is "pulled" to set the tandem brakes again (depriving the other systems from supply air.)

IF I understand the system correctly, if the tanks are not fully charged and the suspension is not fully raised, the release knob for the pins will not stay out. Vicegrips will work in most situations, but in my experience, so will a short drive away from the dock allowing a full charge of air. Once this occurs, I have never had a problem with a knob not staying out and releasing the pins.

I used to get mad as HECK at the dang thing until I figured out that it was tied to whether the suspension had raised fully yet. Of course, as I said.... it was a one in a hundred type thing, and I may be wrong!

I can't give you a technical explanation for the whole system, but I believe there are one-way cutoff valves involved that will only activate when a certain pressure is reached on the other side. Note that the pin release valve is the FIRST valve in the system after the tractor protection valve, so once you POP the trailer supply valve in the truck, the air pressure that passes through IT (pin release valve) is dissipated.

Can any of you oldtimers tell me if I am even close on this? It seems to be a problem that MANY new drivers have.... and if I have mislead anyone, I apologize.

Hobo

hobo I believe cdswans was referring to the mechanical pins that you have to pull the handle out (I could be wrong) but I believe you are correct on the air assisted pins. some of our trailers at millis are air assisted and I had a driver tell me that he would pull out from a dock and pop his brakes and then release the trailer brakes while he went back and shut the doors. by the time he shut the doors and walked back and released the trailer brakes again (they have an over ride that will not release the pins if the trailer brakes are not set) their was enough air in the system to work everything. once I started doing that I never had another problem with the air release pins.

as for the mechanical pins the best thing to get is a pin puller. the ones that have the hook and extend out pushing on the frame work great. you can set it and go back into the truck and tug the trailer back and forth until you find the sweet spot and pop all the pins. one person can do it and you can see the handle extend out all the way in your mirror so you know when the pins have pulled.

see if your trailer shop has any old pins laying around and use one as a stop. say you want to slide up five holes. you put the old pin five holes in front of the tandem rails and it will stop you. no more trying to nudge just enough to get the right hole.

[headborg]

I thought it was a good suggestion- (the vice grips to hold the pin pull-rod out). I've ran into more than one trailer who's notch wasn't in the right place or even there after years of abuse. Trouble is-- I never can seem to find those pliers-- they're buried in the tool box or somewhere else. I usually just have to wedge something between the rod and the edge of the hole. I have one of those pin jumpers-- basically a garage door spring( hope the guy who thought of this made some $$$) and used to prefer the pull rod type over the lever type. But I've had much less trouble with the lever type.

[golfhobo]

Originally Posted by headborg

I thought it was a good suggestion- (the vice grips to hold the pin pull-rod out). I've ran into more than one trailer who's notch wasn't in the right place or even there after years of abuse. Trouble is-- I never can seem to find those pliers-- they're buried in the tool box or somewhere else. I usually just have to wedge something between the rod and the edge of the hole. I have one of those pin jumpers-- basically a garage door spring( hope the guy who thought of this made some $$$) and used to prefer the pull rod type over the lever type. But I've had much less trouble with the lever type.

Oh, I agree! And looking back at Cdswans' post, I see he DID say handle not knob. I guess I just picked up on the air assist part because that is the only time I think I saw someone use the vicegrips. And, like you... I like the pull out handle much more than the lever. But, I like the air assist best..... when it's working right.

[Kevin0915]

Originally Posted by golfhobo

Well it wasn't my goal either, and I DID try to stay out of it. And, heck... I could be wrong and it could be possible that the very BEST thing to use on rusty rails is a combination of DEGREASER agents! :rolleyes: But, it just struck me as being ridiculous. And, in case the O.P. doesn't know.... I meant the collective "you" when I asked if he was crazy!

Me? If I couldn't find the everpresent can of WD-40, I'd try cocoa butter or Nivea or something before I'd say, Hey! let me see if I can get them squeaky clean with Dawn! Of course.... part of what binds them up is dirt and road grime, so..... you just never know!

and in case you cant weed, and need to go back to skool, i could care less about others opinion of me. funny, how it is a week later, and yet you are still talking about me. pathetic.

[BIG JEEP on 44's]

Originally Posted by Kevin0915

and in case you cant weed, and need to go back to skool, i could care less about others opinion of me. funny, how it is a week later, and yet you are still talking about me. pathetic.

But yet a week later you take the time to reply showing him talking about you agitatates you...Don't buy a CB or atleast don't turn it on at T/S b/c you'll be arguing all day/night .