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Old 02-27-2016, 01:53 AM
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Default International Problems

I'm looking for some help!!! I have a 04 International with a C11 in it. I pulled it to the side of the shop the other day and pull the batteries out to use them to move another truck. 2 days later I reinstalled the batteries back in the International and tried to start it and nothing!!!! It turns over fine but will not crank up. Any suggestions??
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:00 AM
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That is strange. Are you sure all the batteries are properly connected and charged? It takes a lot of juice to start these engines. If you have one that is weak or bad, it could prevent the engine from starting. I would also check for loose connections. If those are good, I would make sure you are getting fuel. I would make sure that you have fuel. People have been known to steal your fuel when a truck sits, even for a short time.
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Old 02-27-2016, 05:12 PM
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Yes all three batteries are reading 12.5 and they are all clean and tighten!! Done that like three times. Double checked everything several times. Had a tech from the International dealer come over and hook his computer to it and he couldn't read anything. He said that my ECM is not getting power. So I traced the two wire that are going from the batteries to the ECM and I'm reading volts all the way, so I don't know what he was meaning. When I turn the key to start it the check electic system light comes on, like something is shorting out are not turning on??? Yes I do have diesel. It just don't make sense, I literally drove it, parked it, removed the batteries then 2 days later replaced the batteries and then this crap?????
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:30 PM
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12.5v resting voltage could be the problem with cranking power. Cold temps can also add to the battery being weak.
If your battery reads anything less than that, it's almost a dead battery.

a general idea of battery condition with a tester
12.7 = 100%
12.6 = 90%
12.5 = 80%
12.35 = 70% (about dead)
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:37 AM
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Thanks for the advise!!! I will get them all charged up and go from there. Thanks again!
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:22 PM
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Ok well I've charged all three batteries 100% and still not starting!!! I had a international tech come try to plug his computer in and he said that the ECM wasn't getting power???? Traced the wires all the way from batteries to ECM and I have power. So when I'm cranking it over my rpm gauge is not moving, so would that mean my CPS is not working? It just doesn't make sense!!!!! I drove the truck then pulled the batteries and........ So that's where I'm at now.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:17 AM
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If you are like me, the first part you replace, isn't going to fix your problem.

Misery loves company. I'm now trying to figure out an overcharging problem. mutter-mutter
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:47 AM
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Could be 3 things here, you got a wire that has a break in it and is making intermittent contact. I've seen this on Ford pickups in the door with electric windows. From the outside it looked fine, we would get power then we wouldn't. The wire was actually broke inside the plastic casing all wires are in but the casing looked fine!

Have you put a load tester on the batteries? A battery can be charged up, but under load it's a lemon. You won't see that with a regular ohm meter.

You may have unintentionally shorted the ECM out either removing the batteries or reinstalling them. If that is the case, you need an ECM and programming. Or the ECM just had its time of month and went kaput! THAT, I have seen too. Truck came in, parked and driver went home. Came in the next day and truck wouldn't start, ECM went bad. Still need a new ECM and programming.

If your wires are good and batteries are good under a load, the ECM is toast. If the International tech is saying ECM, then that expensive computer is your problem.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:34 PM
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It's a long shot but are you sure that you have ALL the wires/cables hooked up to the batteries? That trucks 11yrs old and maybe just maybe someone at sometime "fixed" a problem with a hot jumper wire.
When I worked in the body shop I took I-CAR and ASE classes and one was on vehicular electronics and was always told to unhook the positive first and to connect it last, that prevents a power surge to elect components. Easy to do on cars with just one battery but you get the idea. I don't believe it's that important with the more modern (even 04) electronics but keep it in mind.
Have you tried spraying a LITTLE starting fluid in the intake and see if it will atleast fire? If so and it didn't then you know it's not fuel related and most likely is ECM related, got a spare ECM or one you could borrow?
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:33 PM
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I would guess that you didn't just disconnect the batteries, but removed the wire to the ecm from the positive post as well. check if you laid it aside somewhere. I have made this mistake.
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