This will be for a detroit 60?I am wondering whether to save money on just doing the bottom and not both when it is not necessary.
Who can also micron the engine parts and find specific wear points.Oil samples are not always consistent.
I got a quote for a cheap guy for $6700 and I will ask him what it all comes with.Just the bottom was $1200

 

You'd have to ask.

Some include head work, or a new head, new injectors, new turbo, etc..

Some don't.

 

How many miles on engine?
Why are you rebuilding?

 

the 1200 would be bottom end, incl rod and main bearings, pan gasket, etc.

the 6700 would be for in-frame overhaul; pistons, liners, bearings, gaskets... possibly cyl head

oil cooler, injectors, and turbo are all options

again; why are you doing the work ?

 

Every time I use anything other than Rotella I am seeing metal chunks on the drain plug, this will be my third non Rotella oil I have used.I plan on checking the drain plugs to see the condition of the old one.That machine shop is telling me more likely the engine needs rebuilding from what I told them.They don't think it is the oil but I think otherwise.I will ask the guy and post exactly what that price comes with.Poeple claim he is the best DETROIT guy in atlanta/moreland avenue.

 

metal on the drain plug of a high mile s60 might warrant a gear train inspection... your detroit guy should know that

 

i know of a lot of high mi det with parts of the gears such as the bull gear & others being found in the oil pan. all i've heard was with the 12.7 . i have the 11.1 & over a mil li's & so far no metal in oil yet.. there is a shop (star parts) in birmingham al . who stock shelves of the det gears cause he gets that prob a lot.

 

I think this link may answer my question.I plan on doing some work myself.My fan clucth finally died on me but it was a gradual death.This caused the truck to overheat and the "check engine" and shut down" light kicked in which shut off the engine every 2 miles or so.Before this happened my uncle said there was a slight play bewteen the blade and the pulley.I just don't know what bull gears are but I may have read the shavings stories from the fan pulley/bearings.Petro charged me $2386 to change out the fan solenoid switch ,temp sensor and the fan clutch and a 100% mark up from freightliner parts.Now that I changed the fan clutch I may not have these shavings but then again I may be wrong.I also know that the engine master will talk me into spending money with him incase I take it in for diagnosis.


I am having this same problem in this link....http://www.classadrivers.com/phpBB2/...t_0/index.html

my first codes respectively are 43,43,45,46 and 61.IT is hard to start especially at 50 degrees and below.I am having the exact problem as banditt in this thread.Mine does smoke for about 5 seconds after it starts. Sometimes it takes about 15-20 seconds to crank.After it cranks it also idles rough for about 6 and then levels out.On some occassions when it cranks the check engine comes on and then "shut down" light comes on which then cuts off the engine.
I am about to go get the Timing Reference sensor and the SRS.Exactly where are these sensors located on the 93 detroit 60s?I know where the temp sensor and the fan solenoid is located.Can someone please decode those codes for me?

 

43 = Coolant Level Low
45 = Oil Pressure Low
46 = ECM Battery Voltage Low
61 = Injector Response Time Long

 

$2386 for that?

Holy sh*t.

And although I'm not a Detroit mechanic, I can say that the shavings in your oil pan are not coming from a fan clutch problem.