Gross!!!! You engine is blowing chunks and your going to show them to us!!!

 

I would recommend you pull your accessory drive for inspection before your gear train piles up : (

 

I left Tulsa, Ok and headed home to atlanta.The truck ran fine on my 730 mile journey in one day.About 30 miles from the house I felt I had no power steering and I realised the engine had cut off while doing 72mph.I then pulled to the shoulder and tired to crank.The engine turns but will not start and I remember the check engine light came on at one time.
I then called my uncle who works for CASE(fixing excavators,bobcats etc..)he had me check the oil,coolant and turbo hoses.
I then set up my triangles and tried to crank after 30 min.It did crank but it stalled and kept missing.While missing there was a loud noise coming from the front of the engine.I had the truck towed and this same engine guy said he will let me know my fate on tuesday.
The gremlins finally caught up with me.
He said if I bent the valves, a remanufactured head goes for $1200 and his labor to do just the bull gear and bottom end(rods, main bearing) is $1300.I have an option, the bullgear at the yard cost $450 and freightliner wants $750.I am not sure how much he will charge for the bottom end and to install a reman head(if needed).How stupid could I have been?I could have been stuck in no man's Land like 2 months ago.

Yeah!Mr Boothe I got your kindergarten basics on Detroit engines.Quite helpful but damn it we are dealing with machining and engine rebuilding.Did you also try to hide to your addresse?Thanks to your PO BOX.Thanks buddy.
I now give all the company drivers credit...hats off to you folks.
I will let you guys know what he found on wednesday.

 

I would recommend you pull your accessory drive for inspection before your gear train piles up : (

... oooops, never mind, I've already mentioned that a couple of times.

 

You mentioned this Bob and I took my time to have it checked out.The truck died right on my door step without being stuck in far away lands.That is what I am thankful of.

Steve mentioned a couple of months about people who have problems should also come on here and update us of their fix.
I must be one of the few people on here doing that and I hope this trend continues.
This should teach people about what happens when they see metal shavings on Detroits and leave it unattended.

 

Luckily it failed at home..

Metal chunks !! ... Fine shavings may be from normal wear.

Thanks for following up...

 

1 Bullgear $450(yard)
1 Idler gear $200 (yard)
1 air compressor gear $125(yard)
1 front crank seal $65.This should solve the splash I was seeing underneath the truck and the 1 gallon of oil every 2000 miles.
1 fuel filter 5800 $8.75
10 oil $62.50
Tow $200 (just truck)
labor $1000
Borrowed one of his buddys truck to go get my stepdeck- $100
Total$2275.04

He also said the TRS sensor that we dropped in the pan worsened the wear on the bullgear.He also said most detroits with high mileage will have this problem.There is a 30 day warranty on the parts from the yard.He also ran the truck with 5 gallons of diesel to flush out all the particles.
The truck drove fine except the AC didn't work and so I left it for him to check it out.Ouch all my christmas money is gone.
My part is done here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I just had a question about oil pressure.Every thing seem fine except for the temp sensor or whatever kicks on the fan when the gauge reaches 210 degrees.I can still hit the manual switch to turn the fan on.


My oil pressure gauge is now dependent on how much oil I have in the engine, although when it drops(the lowest) at 70mph the oil pressure stick is right in between the notch/mark indicating 50 psi.BUt what puts a smile on my face is when I see 52psi at 70mph.

The oil was low(dipstick) before I started an 800 mile run and the pressure was reading 50psi (right at the notch)at 70mph.I then stopped and bought a 1 gallon mobile Delvac and topped it.The pressure went back to around 53psi at 70mph(3 psi above normal) for the next 800 miles.After this run, the pressure is now at 51 at that speed.
Is this normal for pressure to be dependent on quantity/quality of oil in the crank?.I ask because it didn't do that before.I am monitoring everything on this FLD since I don't wanna go through what I went through in NOV and DEC and being stuck in no mans land.The guy did say my bearings were fine (he had to drop the pan)and I should have him change it in about 20k miles.I am at 1.260mil

 

The gauge level is now dependent on the oil level in the crank and maybe quality/brand.