[allan5oh]

Originally Posted by bob h

Wheels should be re-torqued @ 500-1000 in-service miles, they'd fall off by the time you hit 50,000.

Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!

[bob h]

Originally Posted by allan5oh

Wheels should be re-torqued @ 500-1000 in-service miles, they'd fall off by the time you hit 50,000.

Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!

I agree with this practice... Accuride seems to as well ;

http://www.accuridewheels.com/Safety...tion%20XII.pdf

Although I do apologize, they state "after 50 to 100 miles of operation".

I'd call it cheap insurance... if you wanna make it even cheaper, buy your own 3/4 drive torque wrench. Wheel-off is NO Fun!

[bob h]

Originally Posted by xzostd1

I'd call it cheap insurance... if you wanna make it even cheaper, buy your own 3/4 drive torque wrench. Wheel-off is NO Fun!

A BIG torque wrench..............450ft#
Bill[/quote]

Actually, 600 ft/lbs would be recommended, 450 is MINIMUM torque on a disc wheel (hub piloted). A torque wrench should not be used at extreme ends of the scale.

[Neckster]

Well I went back to the T.A. where I had the new tires installed. I advised them of the problem and they said they would check it out. A different Tech. said the tires were not balanced properly in the first place and he would correct it. So after spin balancing them he adds and changes where the wheel weights are located on the tires, then he switched sides with tire/rim. He mentioned that my one rim was a little out of whack. He added 12 weights to one, and 8 to the other. He said this should work fine. He also advised me the on one wheel 4 lugs were loose, and the other wheel had 2 lugs loose from the guy who changed the tires before, apparently he never tightened them properly. Then I asked if they were torqued, and he said they don't have a torque wrench, as he's been trying to have the T.A. buy one.

I was in a hurry as I was under a load and needed to move quickly. I did not get to take it for a test drive. So I left. Well I get down the road and low and behold the shack and shimmy is still there at about 30 mph. It appears that nothing has changed at all. As indicated before with the old tires there was never any shake or shimmy... none.

So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks.

[COLT]

"The drivers side tire was cupped on the out side, but still had a lot of tread on it. The passenger side was in good shape and was not cupped." I THINK, you have the answer. "Use the force Luke" :lol:

[Neckster]

Please explain... what do you mean? The T.A. can't get me in until Monday, and I don't know of anyone else around who could balance the tires... this sucks... new tires and nothing but problems!

[Rev.Vassago]

Originally Posted by Neckster

So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks.

Yes - stop going to truck stops for your tire needs, and go to a REPUTABLE tire shop. :wink:

[COLT]

Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins!

[bob h]

Originally Posted by COLT

Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins!

He has already explained that the truck did not shake before the tires were replaced... even with the cupped driver's side tire.

Oh, since you've brought it up; what exactly do you think causes cupping on the outer edge of a driver's side tire?

Next, how do you think they managed to throw off the alignment by installing new steer tires?

Just curious... it's got make sense to me... otherwise, it's just an opinion.

[bob h]

Originally Posted by Neckster

Well I went back to the T.A. where I had the new tires installed. I advised them of the problem and they said they would check it out. A different Tech. said the tires were not balanced properly in the first place and he would correct it. So after spin balancing them he adds and changes where the wheel weights are located on the tires, then he switched sides with tire/rim. He mentioned that my one rim was a little out of whack. He added 12 weights to one, and 8 to the other. He said this should work fine. He also advised me the on one wheel 4 lugs were loose, and the other wheel had 2 lugs loose from the guy who changed the tires before, apparently he never tightened them properly. Then I asked if they were torqued, and he said they don't have a torque wrench, as he's been trying to have the T.A. buy one.

I was in a hurry as I was under a load and needed to move quickly. I did not get to take it for a test drive. So I left. Well I get down the road and low and behold the shack and shimmy is still there at about 30 mph. It appears that nothing has changed at all. As indicated before with the old tires there was never any shake or shimmy... none.

So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks.

Are the tires running true (is it wobbling side to side or bouncing up and down)? You need to look at this yourself, the techs will ignore it.

What do you mean by "spin-balancing"... on or off the vehicle?

An egg-shaped tire will balance, but the heavy side will cause it to "tramp" or slap the road as it spins under a load.

Tell them sternly; "There was no shaking before the tire replacement... why is it shaking now?!?"

If you want to verify the alignment - - place a protractor or angle finder...

http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...lr%3D%26sa%3DN

...on the flat part of the axle just beside the springs/u-bolts... then, post what you find.