I did enclosed auto transport for a while. I've got some great stories from that period and got to drive some of the world’s greatest cars. I imagine it’s not as nerve racking when the cars aren’t $350k and up each, but still, I think I’d pass.

 

I would add more ratchet binders, up around 10. These seem pretty good:

http://www.amazon.com/Security-Quikb.../dp/B002IY20AE

You need a strap winder as well. Four pipe stakes (30" high) are pretty much a requirement. I would go with some shorter chains. I have:

- 6 x 6'
- 8 x 16'
- 8 x 25'

The 25 foot chain rarely gets used, but it seems like when I need them I end up using all 8. I would have at least 20 straps. Don't forget to get a couple of 40 foot straps too, or even a 50 foot especially with a step deck. Mostly for loads that need to be belly wrapped.

I would also add 4 30 foot 2" straps and 4 portable strap ratchets. Lots of loads need this type of stuff. Polystyrene insulation comes to mind. Make sure you have two winch pipes at all times, you may break one, or you could get one stuck in one of the snap binders (I've done it) and the only way to get it out is with another winch bar.

I assume that the trailer comes with two load levelers and a few portable chain tiedowns?

You'll also need some way to wrap up the snap binders. Kinedyne makes these small things that work really well, see if I can find a link. Or you can just use bungees. The snap binders are required to be wrapped in something as to prevent them from snapping open. It can happen.

 

Those are definitely nice ratchets. They are also twice the price of the old boring designs that have been around forever. I’ll have to put some thought into it before buying ten of those. I’m thinking for the 3/8” chain buying a drum of 400 to 500 feet and making my own lengths would be cheaper. I’m looking into whether or not the trailer has load levelers. I assumed that $46k would mean they’re standard, but I guess I should find out for sure.

Any suggestions for the best place to get a headache rack? I just want something light and simple. The websites I’ve looked at want a huge amount of shipping, but if I buy local, I think I’ll pay sales tax (although I’m not entirely sure in IL). This one seems to be the best deal, though it is advertised as having minor blemishes. BLEM Headache Rack w 2 Chain Hangers and Trays - 4 State Trucks

 

Whatever you decide I implore you to get the style that bolts directly to the frame, not the kind with u-bolts that go around the frame. Takes up less frame space, and won't move around like the u-bolt style(they ALWAYS move around).

Unfortunately some truck designs (like volvo) don't allow the direct bolt style. You have to decide what kind of storage you need. I have a headache rack with 33 notches on it (I have 22 chains and 11 binders on it). I also have four 60" tool boxes that are totally full. The reason I bring this up is it affects your headache rack choice. You may want a fancier enclosed rack where you can store more things in it. You at the very least want an open rack with a chain tray and 30-33 notches.

 

The trailer comes with two tool boxes. I was more concerned about the weight. My truck is heavy to start with (21k lbs)and I'd like to be able to scale at least 48k pounds, although I imagine I'm going to end up taking off a fuel tank anyway and that will save a 1,200 pounds. From what I've seen on the load boards, there's plenty of loads that don't encroach on the 48k or even 47k mark, and I imagine that LTL will average even less. I just don’t want to be so overburdened with equipment that I make it harder to have my pick of loads.

 

That's a nice trailer. I was looking at one like exactly it last year but I decided on another low deck Wilson. I doubt if it comes with levelers.

 

After checking with the dealer, it doesn’t come with levelers (thanks alan5oh for bringing that question to mind), but he has a few in stock and I’m buying two. There’s actually a ramp manufacturer that makes ramps than can be staked on their sides and used as levelers and when I do add ramps it will probably be those. I guess I could’ve just bought them to start with instead of the stock levelers, but I thought I’d wait on the ramps for a while.

 

Just sayin that high Pete is made to flow air over a 13'6" box. A flat top is better for flatbed unless you are a lazy curtainside yanker in which case a box tractor is perfect.

The tallest for flatbed is a stand up sleeper. The extra height will cut into fuel mileage but the ability to actually stand erect in your sleeper has it's benefits.

Those two story sleepers always look odd to me ahead of a platform trailer. Pushing a lot of air up there for for what? Just a drain on profit.

 

So your assessment about the truck not being designed for open deck trailers is based simply on aerodynamics? I would think that my tall 387 pushes less air than a lower W900 or 379. My second assumption, and it is only an assumption, that pulling an open deck trailer with all loads other than say lumber or bricks or maybe coils will result in low fuel economy. How does the height of the power unit have anything to do with all that wind that will be building resistance on all that odd shaped machinery and equipment I’ll be pulling? The tractor only protects the first three feet of space behind it from the adverse effects of wind resistance. The lower deck of a step, where the bulk of the load is carried is eleven feet behind the upper deck. I would think that fact alone would mean that tractor configuration has little or no effect on fuel economy. I will know for sure in a couple weeks though.

If I were to replace my current tractor, and if I were still happily pulling an open platform trailer, I would probably buy a mid-rise for the simple fact that low clearances (depending on load height of course) would be less important than they are with my 13’ 4” high power unit.

 

Check with Tracer. He's put his deflector on and off a few times to get the max MPG. Even cut the height of his exhaust stacks.