[boneebone]

I only run Bridgertone R287 for steers and M726EL for drives.

[no_worries]

I'm on my second set of Michelin XZA3's and I don't see any reason to switch. On the higher end of the price spectrum, but the are a great riding tire (Michelin's forte) and I get great wear. Changed the last set at 200,000 miles and still had plenty of life left. If I remember correctly I got $75 or $100 apiece on trade. Right now they run me about $356 plus mounting, balance, etc. So about $800 or so. Oh, and I do run H-rated steers, so they're a little pricier.

[9200IH]

Hi No-worries Do you thingk the heavier duty H rated steers is part of the reason you get such good tire life? Do you do heavy haul or always maxed out on your steer axle? Or is the H rating just what you like and it gives you the best bang for your buck.

Thanks Mike

[no_worries]

I'm not sure if the tire life is any better with the H-rated tires. The tread depth is the same as the G's, so intuitively, since the amount of rubber is the same it doesn't seem like they would last significantly longer. I run a reefer but my truck is configured so the front axle is preloaded. The axle is rated at 13,200 and I need the H's to keep that rating. I run about 12,000 empty and 12,600 fully loaded. Now, because there are a couple of extra ply on the H's they may run a little cooler (not as much sidewall flex) and this could lead to longer tread life. However, I know other guys that get similar mileage with G's. I check my pressure everyday, rotate, and keep up with my balance and alignment. We also don't run very fast. All of these things contribute to longer life. Like I said, I only run the H's because I need them to keep my rating. However, seeing how they have served me, I'd probably spend the extra $30 a piece even if I didn't have to have them.

[merrick4]

No_worries, how often are you supposed to balance and rotate the tires on the truck? And how much does that cost?

Thanks

[no_worries]

I don't know that there's any standard. I get them balanced at installation and rotation or if I notice irregular wear or new vibration. I'm currently using a 75,000 mile rotation schedule and I'm happy with it.

Balancing usually runs $40-$60 for the steers (I don't balance the drives). Dismount, disassemble, reassemble, and mount, should run about $20-$30 per tire. I have single directional steers, so they have to be taken off the wheel each time. If you have multi-directional tires you don't have to, although I recommend it for steers.

If you can manage it, I would also recommend getting the work done at a good tire shop rather than a truckstop. Anytime the tire is coming off the wheel, the wheel should be cleaned and scoured and the inside of the tire checked before reassembly. I've never seen a truckstop do this, and fewer tire shops take the time unless you ask. Also, I recommend changing the valve stems whenever you have the tires off the wheels. I just had a situation where there was corrosion around the valve stem and this created a leak. The tire shop should take a wire brush and really scour the valve stem opening in the wheel to make sure there's nothing there to prevent a tight seal.

These are just my recommendations based on my experiences and are in no means meant to be the final word on the subject. But, I've found that extra money spent in preventative maintenance is rarely misspent.

[merrick4]

Thanks no_worries. If I may could I trouble you a bit more? ops: . I'll just preface it by saying I don't know anything about mechanics and as a company driver they don't want you touching the truck so I had no chance to learn. With my car I follow required maintenance to the letter and things go well. I dislike mechanics but I am interested in taking care on the maintenance.

Anyway, when the drive or trailer tires go, what's the thought on recap tires?. I always thought that everyone put them on but now I'm getting the impression that's the cheap but poor way to do it. Am I wrong in this? I know the big companies use them so I assume that if it makes financial sense for them it must be sound. But I could be wrong.

Also for the valve cover tops, you know where I can get those that you can place the air hose on top of them without unscrewing them? I don' t see how those work anyway or what's the point of having them rather than not having a cover but I assume there is one.

As most of my tires are new, I'm thinking when I get back home to get a spare and carry it. I read that on Steve's thread. Probably cheaper than buying one from the side of the road.

Thanks a lot for you help; I really appreciate it.

[Fozzy]

The XZA3's are fantastic compared to most other tires especially a goodyear.

[brian]

recaps are only as good as the casing used and the company doing it, that being said reputable companies make some really good recaps.

if I did local work or dump trucks i`d run recaps 100%

[no_worries]

First let me say that I'm no gearhead. I have some friends whose brains I pick, I ask mechanics about stuff when I'm in the shop, and I read quite a bit about equipment and maintenance. But the most extensive work I've done on my truck is replace the muffler and exhaust when I had one custom made. If I had a proper place I would probably do things like oil changes and such, but only because I want to. I've always felt that if I can't afford to have a qualified mechanic work on my truck then the business isn't supporting itself. So I am far from an expert and don't even play one on t.v. 8)

I run recaps on my trailer. Like Brian said, a quality recap will be a good tire. I'll use Michelin or Bridgestone recaps. Bridgestone is the Oncor, I can't remember what Michelin brands their caps as. When I bought my current trailer it came with brand new off-brand recaps. They all failed or needed replacing within 100,000 miles. The biggest danger to recaps is running under-inflated. The increased heat can cause the cap to separate and fail. If you're going to run recaps I would recommend checking your tire pressure everyday. Of course, that's my recommendation whether they're recaps or not. The best money spent on tires would be buying a quality tire gauge, inflation hose, and keep your air-dryer in top shape. I can't emphasize that last point enough. If you inflate your tires with moist air you'll drastically increase decomposition of the rubber as well as corrosion of the valve stem and wheel.

Those one-way valve caps can be tough to find. They are great though. Anytime you get into a tire shop, ask if they have them. Often they'll let you have a handful. The most important thing is to have a metal cap with an O-ring. That will give you a tight seal and save your butt in the even your valve stem develops a leak at the valve. I've gone and removed my valve cap and heard the air come whooshing out. The valve had developed a leak but because the cap sealed tightly, it kept the tire from losing air.

Carrying a spare is a good idea if you can manage it. If you're getting roadside assistance from a major brand you won't get jacked on the pricing, you'll get their regular price. But, when you have the time to shop around you can always beat regular pricing and carrying a spare gives you that time. If you get stuck having to use Cooter in the boondocks for your road repair, that spare may save you a couple hundred bucks.

One other thing to consider when it comes time to replace tires down the road is running an all-position tire on all 18 wheels. Only running one tire can save you money, you'll have many more rotation pattern available which may lead to longer life, and running a ribbed tire all the way around will give you better fuel mileage. I know a few guys that do this and they love it.