Will this matter?

Thread Tools
  #61  
Old 09-24-2007, 09:17 AM
golfhobo's Avatar
Board Icon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: the 19th hole / NC
Posts: 9,647
Default

NOW.... it gives me an "edit" button! :lol: I allready copied, deleted and replaced THIS one, once!! :roll:

:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
__________________
Remember... friends are few and far between.

TRUCKIN' AIN'T FOR WUSSES!!!

"I am willing to admit that I was wrong." The Rev.
  #62  
Old 09-24-2007, 10:55 AM
Board Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
Posts: 243
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by Fredog
I know nobody does it but most companies will tell you to hook up the air lines before you back all the way under.
If you ever have the pleasure to hook to an old (pre 1980?) trailer you'll quickly learn why. They didn't have spring (parking) brakes and once all the air in the trailer air tank bled off (and 25+ year old trailers can leak off fast!) the trailer will just scoot away from you if you try to back under it, crashing into whatever is behind!
:shock:

Here is an exact procedure for the newbees:

You should hook up the red line before pinning to one of these old guys and then push in the red button and wait until the air stops hissing through it as the trailer tank fills through a one-way check valve on the trailer. Then you pull out the red button to set the emergency brakes on the trailer - an air pressure loss on the red line causes a fancy valve in the trailer to apply the stored air from the tank to the trailer brakes (this is the emergency AKA "breakaway" brake system). The trailer one-way check valve prevents the trailer air tank from feeding back out the red line. Now pin to it. Make sure you then set the tractor parking brakes (pull out yellow button) in case the air bleeds down and the trailer brakes release before you finish hookup and get back in the cab!

I'm afraid I'm in the habit of hooking without setting the tractor parking brakes and I had a close one once as the rig started to roll forward as I was cranking up the gear. That particular trailer was against a fence and I didn't notice it had no spring brakes so I didn't charge its air tank first!
:shock:
 
  #63  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:23 AM
golfhobo's Avatar
Board Icon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: the 19th hole / NC
Posts: 9,647
Default

Wow! This "program" is funny! This is my triple post, which I choose to "delete" which I can only do by "editing" it..... but there IS NO EDIT button on this post!! :shock: :lol:

What you got to say NOW, Scoe???? :shock: :lol: :lol:
 
__________________
Remember... friends are few and far between.

TRUCKIN' AIN'T FOR WUSSES!!!

"I am willing to admit that I was wrong." The Rev.
  #64  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:24 AM
Kranky's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,102
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by roadranger
Originally Posted by Fredog
I know nobody does it but most companies will tell you to hook up the air lines before you back all the way under.
If you ever have the pleasure to hook to an old (pre 1980?) trailer you'll quickly learn why. They didn't have spring (parking) brakes and once all the air in the trailer air tank bled off (and 25+ year old trailers can leak off fast!) the trailer will just scoot away from you if you try to back under it, crashing into whatever is behind!
:shock:

Here is an exact procedure for the newbees:

You should hook up the red line before pinning to one of these old guys and then push in the red button and wait until the air stops hissing through it as the trailer tank fills through a one-way check valve on the trailer. Then you pull out the red button to set the emergency brakes on the trailer - an air pressure loss on the red line causes a fancy valve in the trailer to apply the stored air from the tank to the trailer brakes (this is the emergency AKA "breakaway" brake system). The trailer one-way check valve prevents the trailer air tank from feeding back out the red line. Now pin to it. Make sure you then set the tractor parking brakes (pull out yellow button) in case the air bleeds down and the trailer brakes release before you finish hookup and get back in the cab!

I'm afraid I'm in the habit of hooking without setting the tractor parking brakes and I had a close one once as the rig started to roll forward as I was cranking up the gear. That particular trailer was against a fence and I didn't notice it had no spring brakes until I hooked to it without charging its air tank first and it rolled on me!
:shock:
Not trying to offend you Roadranger, but did you read all the previous posts in this thread before making your post?
 
__________________
If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.
  #65  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:28 AM
Board Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
Posts: 243
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by Splitshifter
Not trying to offend you Roadranger, but did you read all the previous posts in this thread before making your post
Yes I did - some was wrong - some was misleading - and I didn't see anyone give the actual, step by step procedure to pin an old trailer.
8)
 
  #66  
Old 09-24-2007, 12:44 PM
Kranky's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,102
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by roadranger
Originally Posted by Splitshifter
Not trying to offend you Roadranger, but did you read all the previous posts in this thread before making your post
Yes I did - some was wrong - some was misleading - and I didn't see anyone give the actual, step by step procedure to pin an old trailer.
8)
Hmmm?

I seem to remember posting something about this, let's see.

Yup, here it is, on page 3 of this thread:

Splitshifter

Super Trucker


Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 365
Location: Right here
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:22 am Post subject:

Those old (pre FMVSS 121) trailer brakes were just as stated:

No spring actuated parking brakes.

When you shut off air to the trailer or pull off the red gladhand, the trailer air valve would send full air pressure from the trailer air tank to the brake chambers on the trailer wheels.

This worked fine as long as there were no air leaks in the trailer brake system.

Once the trailer air tank ran out of air?

No brakes on the trailer whatsoever, until you hooked up the supply line and charged it up again.

That is why you would get close, hook up the air lines and charge the trailer with air, and then apply the trailer hand valve before backing under one of those.

It's not B.S., I hauled heavy equipment on a trailer set up that way back in the late 70's early 80's.
 
__________________
If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.
  #67  
Old 09-24-2007, 12:59 PM
Board Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
Posts: 243
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by Splitshifter
That is why you would get close, hook up the air lines and charge the trailer with air, and then apply the trailer hand valve before backing under one of those.
Not all tractors have a "trailer hand valve" - in particular most of the school trucks didn't so we were taught the method I spelled out. Also in playing "Yard Jockey" often only the red line is hooked up.

BTW the CT exam required hooking up the lines first whereas the RI and MA exams required them to be hooked up last - wrong order would fail you in all three states. I've seen schools accused of teaching you to pass the tests and not to drive - but I have to say in retrospect they had to do it that way. If you did things "correctly" or "real world" you'd never get your CDL! Being shown more than one way to do something would confuse many newbees when it came to testing time.
:shock:

We had one customer that owns 4 or 5 old "pre spring brake" flats that we used to move around for them sometimes with large tent stuff. I was pulling one to the Boston Common with 45K of concrete anchor blocks when one of the old dry rotted tires blew out a pencil size hole about half a mile before I got to the common. looked like a bullet hole!
:shock:
 
  #68  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:16 PM
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,147
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by roadranger
Not all tractors have a "trailer hand valve" - in particular most of the school trucks didn't so we were taught the method I spelled out. Also in playing "Yard Jockey" often only the red line is hooked up.
My Classic XL didn't have a "trailer hand valve." Nor did my brother's have one on his Schneider trucks.

Most "Yard Jockey" only have the Red Line. They just use the tractor brakes.

Since most "Yard Jockey" have power lift so they don't have to do the dolly thing either. Move a couple hundred trailers per shift and you will see why.

BTW Schneider teaches all their drivers to connect the air lines BEFORE they back under the trailer. Or at least that is what my brother told me. I never work for them.


I learned the old way (self taught). We also had quite a few trailers that would roll all over the yard. So you learned real fast to connect the air lines.


It is real a shame newer drivers don't know enough about brakes. Something as simple as a broken line and they don't know how to adjust the brakes so they can get to the next truck stop. They set beside the road waiting for the "hook" to tow them in. I've seen drivers waiting for service because they didn't know how to adjust the brakes.

kc0iv
 
  #69  
Old 09-24-2007, 04:35 PM
Board Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 207
Default Trailer Heights

I posted further comments. However, I screwed up and started a new topic Trailer Heights. 8) :roll:
 
  #70  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:18 PM
Board Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
Posts: 243
Default Re: Will this matter?

Originally Posted by kc0iv
I've seen drivers waiting for service because they didn't know how to adjust the brakes.
I always like to remind folks that it is ILLEGAL to adjust your own brakes unless you took an offical course which certifies you to "Adjust and repair air brakes". Most DOT inspectors will let anyone adjust your own brakes and sign for it as the mechanic - but if you EVER get in an accident the opposing lawyer can "discover" that document you signed and prove in court that you do illegal repairs on your truck - guess who looses?
:shock:
The course is only one day, I paid $150 for it.
8)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -12. The time now is 04:58 PM.

Top