[Malaki86]

Well, after 10 (maybe 11) years, my 1500 watt Cobra inverter died on me. Definitely not complaining about the amount of time it's powered up a multitude of devices in the truck over the years.

So, now I'm looking to buy a new one. I'm torn between getting a new 1500 watt or upgrade to a 2500. I'm definitely going with another Cobra. I'm also replacing the wiring, as well.

Now for a couple of questions:
What size wire for the 1500 watt?
The 2500 watt inverter has double + & - power connections. What size wire for each? Even the wiring kit direct from Cobra only comes with 3 wires (+, - & body ground).
What are the prices of them at the T/A & Petro (Loves, Pilot and Flying J only sell the RoadPro's in that size)? I'm at home and if the price is too high, I'll just order one from Amazon. I can get the 1500 for $101.84 & the 2500 for $165.00. But, if it's only a few $$$ more, I'll pick one up on Sunday when I'm out again (going past a T/A & a Petro).

With the wiring, I want to put fuses on the positive side. What amperage for the 1500 & the 2500?

[VPIDarkAngel]

2-4AWG wire should suffice for the 1500W model. For each terminal of the 2500, 4AWG.
For the 1500, I'd say a 150A fuse.
For the 2500, 250A.

[Roadhog]

yep…
you want to install your fuse within 3 feet or less of your battery. Use 150A on the 1500w, 200A on the 2000w, 250A on the 2500w
#4 is fine for short runs. If you need to run power 15 feet, then go with #2
in a 12v system, you aren't going to have as much concern with wires overheating, as power voltage drop.
5-10 feet can make a big difference on voltage drop, so check with a meter.

I also will use a battery and inverter when the storms knock power out at home.
I keep a 12v battery charged all the time, (marine battery) and they can come in handy, to power some stuff.

[Malaki86]

One thing I'm having a problem with is finding a fuse holder that can handle being installed underneath of the cab of the truck. I need something completely sealed, but can't find any. Yes, I can put the fust in the cab, but it's not going to protect against a short circuit between the batteries and where it goes into the cab. Any suggestions with that? I've found waterproof, but I don't think that even that is good enough to handle the conditions underneath of a Volvo (the batteries are "open" underneath the cab).

[Malaki86]

I had been using one of these fuse holders, but it's far from a sealed holder. The nuts are completely rusted over now:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1321[/ATTACH]

Found items such as this, which are only labeled as waterproof:
Amazon.com: AUDIOP CQ2300 Heavy Duty Waterproof Anl Style Fuse Holder: Everything Else

Maybe something like this, using 2 of them, with a 60amp fuse in each:
MAXI Fuse Holder w/Waterproof Cover - 8 AWG : Amazon.com : Automotive

(Note: not sure if the image of the current fuseholder I've been using is showing up or not. On my end, it shows a broken link. I did a URL link to it, and then a direct upload from my end, but it still shows as a broken link. Anyway, the current one is a ANL holder with a rubber "flap" of a cover. It seals against nothing.)

[Malaki86]

Going through Amazon, I am able to get everything I need for a new inverter setup for under $160. This includes the Cobra 1500 watt inverter, a set of 10' 4-guage cables, the remote power switch for it, a ANL fuse holder and a 2-pack of 150amp fuses.

If I upgrade to the 2500 watt inverter, it's an extra $55 for the larger inverter, an extra $25 for the 2nd set of 4-guage cables and $7 more for a 2nd fuse holder. As for now, I'm sticking with the 1500 watt inverter, mainly because I've never needed larger. Plus, I'd have to get an extra set of cables into the cab, which means drilling more holes in a new truck.

[Roadhog]

I agree to stick with 1500w. That is all you need, and it does keep you thinking about what you want to run off them.
I think that is all one should expect out of a 12v battery, and not try to push it.

You can get into some systems like the fishermen use to power big amp trolling motors, and it is more expensive. … something is always on my wish list.
I wanted to run some of my electric the length of my boat, 16ft. but finally decided to keep everything wired close to the battery.
I feel more confident my 12v stuff is safe, but also keep a fire extinguisher handy. I haven't had a Rev. Vasaggo BBQ… knock on wood.

Check Marine supply for your waterproof fuse holders.

[Malaki86]

The cables I'm currently using are 6' long, but that's pushing it pretty tight, especially with allowing enough slack for the tractor cab movement. I figure 8' is plenty, so once I route everything, I may cut the wires down to the length I need.

[Roadhog]

I've been keeping all my stuff wired up under 8ft., and no problems.

You can extend out off your power source, like a gadget I just bought, that I'm anxious to try out. If your device doesn't take much power, it can have a long extension for convenience.
I bought a 12v submersible light for night fishing. It is a fluorescent submersible light, gives off a green glow.
It hooks up to a 12v battery, and you drop it down up to 15 ft. underwater, to draw in baitfish, which draws in bigger fish.

I have a 12v battery box that has a 15amp breaker built in, and that's plenty as the light only draws 1/2 amp per hour.
It also runs my 12v aerated minnow bucket.

…if the light works and I catch fish, I might even get myself a 12v electric filet knife. …only come home to charge batteries.
…wait, i could take my generator out on the ice….

[Malaki86]

One thing nice about this truck is that it's pre-wired for shore power. I can pull the plug out of the fairing, fish it back into the dogbox and plug it direct into the inverter. That'll power up the 3 sets of outlets in the truck.

I stopped at a T/A today and priced the 1500 watt inverter. They want $169.99 for it. I ordered everything from Amazon (inverter, cables, remote switch, fuse holder and fuses) and it cost $158.99 total (that's tax included).