Smoke Tarps and a Dirt Burner

[Musicman]

If I have a "dirt burner" (horizontal, under cab mounted exhaust), and the load information says it requires a smoke tarp, do I still need to use the tarp? I mean with a dirt burner there's no smoke to damage the load.

[jeff1981]

I think I would be inclined to put the tarp on anyway- when I hauled siding, we had to use salt tarps in the winter- but winter was determined by the calendar, not by the weather or road conditions. If we didn't have the tarp on, we didn't get paid for the load. Thankfully, I never found that out the hard way, but I know of drivers who did.

[Windwalker]

If I have a "dirt burner" (horizontal, under cab mounted exhaust), and the load information says it requires a smoke tarp, do I still need to use the tarp? I mean with a dirt burner there's no smoke to damage the load.

I never drove a "Grass-Burner", but back when I pulled a flat, I was always told (by the shipper) that they did not have to use them. However, I've also hauled loads of wooden spools that had been sitting out in the weather, and a tarp was required. Soil pipes (sewer pipe) that will never see fresh water after they're put in, and I had to tarp them.

I believe I would check with the shipper, or even better, the receiver, and see if they require that you put a smoke tarp on. If they tell you "YES", I would follow orders. Otherwise, when in doubt, TARP THE LOAD. I've done that and it saved my butt more than once.

For that matter, it doesn't take much to put a small tarp on the front of the load. Not like having to tarp the whole load. I always carried a "half-tarp" just for that.

[Musicman]

If they tell you "YES", I would follow orders. Otherwise, when in doubt, TARP THE LOAD. I've done that and it saved my butt more than once.

For that matter, it doesn't take much to put a small tarp on the front of the load. Not like having to tarp the whole load. I always carried a "half-tarp" just for that.

I bought a “smoke tarp” as well as a three piece (24’x18’ each) 8’ drop lumber tarp, but I’m hoping to not use either very often. Of course, if I’m told to tarp by the consignee, I’ll tarp the load. I was just wondering if they would understand that there would be no real benefit to doing so in my case. I thought that perhaps others here might have some experience with this situation.


I’ve never driven a truck with a dirt burner either, but I’m about to. I decided to remove my vertical 5” rear mounted exhaust and put it under the truck so that I could move my headache rack further forward on the rails. I also removed a fuel tank, which I have been debating doing for over two years. Removing the passenger side tank made the exhaust project a lot simpler and it will save about 1,100 pounds to boot. Moving the exhaust underneath the truck saved close to 100 pounds between the brackets and pipe I was able to get rid of.

[rank]

I decided to remove my vertical 5” rear mounted exhaust and put it under the truck so that I could move my headache rack further forward on the rails.

That's funny, I did the same thing a week ago so I could install a headache rack. Only, I didn't want to go the grass burner route so I ran a 5" pipe up the back of the bunk and bolted it to the headache rack so the headache rack is now doing double duty as a exhaust stack support.

[Maniac]

My pipes are on the side, next to the tanks, shipper said no smoke tarp needed, this is an old pic, sold the flat in 2008

[Musicman]

That's funny, I did the same thing a week ago so I could install a headache rack. Only, I didn't want to go the grass burner route so I ran a 5" pipe up the back of the bunk and bolted it to the headache rack so the headache rack is now doing double duty as a exhaust stack support.

Doing that wouldn’t have accomplished anything in my situation, as the 10” muffler would’ve still been behind the sleeper causing the headache rack to be mounted no closer than fourteen or more inches from the back of the cab. The rack I bought is the three door cabinet type, 67”H x 84”W x 14” deep, like the one below, except I ordered mine with polished diamond plate:



Because it's a fairly deep cabinet, I thought moving it all the way forward would be the thing to do to give me more room to route the air and electrical lines and also open my options a little regarding where I can set my fifth wheel.

[Musicman]

My pipes are on the side, next to the tanks, shipper said no smoke tarp needed...

Maniac, your truck looks great with the pipes mounted there… it’s a very slick looking configuration. I had considered placing it there as well, but it would have involved a lot more work and this is a big enough project as it is. My pipe comes down from the back of the engine and then runs directly beneath the passenger side rail and terminates about six inches in front of the “flex-air” suspension spring. I still need to do something for a quarter or half fender, but when I priced them earlier this week, all four places I called wanted over $2k for the fenders and brackets; and I’m already over $5k into converting from a reefer setup to a stepdeck (excluding the $45k for the trailer, of course) and just can’t justify spending another $2k on fenders.

[Musicman]

I would appreciate any suggestions regarding a cost effective solution to my fender problem. Below is a pic from the website I ordered my rack from. Check out this one solution for fenders and let me know what you think.



Also, I’d love to see pics or hear suggestions of what to do with my electrical and air lines. Right now I’ve settled on mounting the grab rail from the back of my sleeper onto the bottom front of my headache rack and attaching hanger hardware and a short spring from there. Right now I have the coiled type lines, by the way.

[rank]

Doing that wouldn’t have accomplished anything in my situation, as the 10” muffler would’ve still been behind the sleeper causing the headache rack to be mounted no closer than fourteen or more inches from the back of the cab.

No, I moved the muffler underneath the truck, but still ran the 5" pipe up behind the bunk where the muffler used to be.

The rack I bought is the three door cabinet type, 67”H x 84”W x 14” deep, like the one below, except I ordered mine with polished diamond plate:

I don't recall how deep mine is....14" seems about right. It's a 3 door Merritt.

As for the air lines, so far I have coil spring attached to the top of the headache rack with an s hook. The spring hangs down and supports the lines.

[Musicman]

No, I moved the muffler underneath the truck, but still ran the 5" pipe up behind the bunk where the muffler used to be.
As for the air lines, so far I have coil spring attached to the top of the headache rack with an s hook. The spring hangs down and supports the lines.

Sorry, I must’ve misunderstood the first time ‘round. That would certainly be an improvement over the stock configuration; still, I’m going to be able to mount the rack just a couple inches behind the cab with the mod I did. I will certainly concede that using the rack as an exhaust mount is an ingenious idea. That thought never crossed have my mind to honest. Did you have to drill holes in the rack to accomplish your mod? I’m very hesitant to put holes in an aluminum box that I just paid $2,600 for that is designed to be weather tight.

Tomorrow, or make that later this morning, I’ll be bolting the rack on, and then Saturday I’m heading to my ace-in-the-hole welder and fab guy to have him make some mods. Instead of drilling holes all over the outer shell of the rack and using eye-bolts, I’m going to have him weld small tabs with holes so I can strap my tarps and maybe a ladder to the top of the rack. I also want to add something to take advantage of all the wasted space in the right and left compartments. Right now there’s just one piece of angle on each side for hanging chains. I’m open to suggestions if you’ve made any such mods to your rack.

[mitchno1]

hope it not alloy headrack as you call them ,on our logtrucks we have probs with them cracking near chassy mounts ,use steel instead ,can make them different so they not to heavy and saves cops not causing problems

[Musicman]

I’ve never seen a headache rack / cabinet made out of anything but aluminum, but of course I’m no expert. I’ve also not heard of them cracking with any regularity. Could it be that off-roading on a daily basis like most log trucks do puts stress on the racks that is not encountered in the typical on-highway operation? I will be adding some additional reinforcement to the base as well as attaching the legs not only via the standard u-bolt system, but also bolting the legs to the rails with brackets.

[rank]

....I’m going to be able to mount the rack just a couple inches behind the cab with the mod I did.

Even if I went grass burner, the vertical aluminum I-beams of the headache rack would still hit the bunk.

I will certainly concede that using the rack as an exhaust mount is an ingenious idea. That thought never crossed have my mind to honest.

Me either. I thought about it for a year, then a month ago I saw a guy down at the port of Baltimore and that's when the light bulb went on.

Did you have to drill holes in the rack to accomplish your mod? I’m very hesitant to put holes in an aluminum box that I just paid $2,600 for that is designed to be weather tight.

Yeah I drilled two holes to accommodate one of those U shaped muffler clamps. I made a rubber gasket and placed it between the aluminum rack and the steel "saddle" of the clamp. This should keep water out but mostly I did it to stop galvanic corrosion from the contact between the dissimilar metals.

[Maniac]

Flat fenders like in the pic will hold up very well, and can be put on cheaply enough, just make them strong, if they wiggle they break.

My buddy who still pulls flat put his airlines under the tractor by the tail lights, and then modified the trailer to work with them, he also T'ed the lines so that he could pull a trailer with a regular set up, and also some one could pull his trailer with a regular setup, he used mostly quick fit air couplings, like those used on air tools, pretty slick, wish I had some pics, I'll try to find some

[Musicman]

My buddy who still pulls flat put his airlines under the tractor by the tail lights, and then modified the trailer to work with them, he also T'ed the lines so that he could pull a trailer with a regular set up, and also some one could pull his trailer with a regular setup, he used mostly quick fit air couplings, like those used on air tools, pretty slick, wish I had some pics, I'll try to find some

Now THAT would be interesting to see. I've always felt that the glad hand system was under engineered, but never envisioned anything even remotely close to what you just described as a replacement. I’d be very interested to see pics of the system your friend came up with. It’s amazing what some drivers come up with.

[Musicman]

Yeah I drilled two holes to accommodate one of those U shaped muffler clamps. I made a rubber gasket and placed it between the aluminum rack and the steel "saddle" of the clamp. This should keep water out but mostly I did it to stop galvanic corrosion from the contact between the dissimilar metals.

I went to my fab shop yesterday to get some aluminum flat bar and was talking to the owner's dad who used to flatbed, and in passing he mentioned that he had actually plumbed his duel exhaust right THROUGH the sides of his rack. I’m assuming that having a prodigy aluminum fab / CNC / welder as a son made his little project a little cheaper and easier than it would be for most other guys. . I would be worried about the heat from the exhaust harming items stored in and on the box, but still it is an intriguing idea.

Getting to galvanic corrosion: aluminum and stainless steel are not actually galvanically compatible because they have significantly different potentials, but the passivity of both can reduce the problem to non-problematical for non-critical applications if the area of the aluminum is greater than the area of the stainless steel (stainless fasteners on aluminum architectural features usually aren't a significant problem, but aluminum pop rivets on stainless steel sheets would be). Also, when I use aluminum in direct contact with steel, I apply a thin coating of Never Seize to the contact points. There is also a great product from ECK (Eck® Dissimilar Metal Protection :: By VANNAY LLC ) that is specifically designed to prevent galvanic corrosion.

[rank]

Getting to galvanic corrosion: aluminum and stainless steel are not actually galvanically compatible because they have significantly different potentials, but the passivity of both can reduce the problem to non-problematical for non-critical applications if the area of the aluminum is greater than the area of the stainless steel (stainless fasteners on aluminum architectural features usually aren't a significant problem, but aluminum pop rivets on stainless steel sheets would be). Also, when I use aluminum and direct contact with steel, I apply a thin coating of Never Seize to the contact points. There is also a great product from ECK (Eck® Dissimilar Metal Protection :: By VANNAY LLC ) that is specifically designed to prevent galvanic corrosion.

The muffler clamp I attached to the rack was steel. Zinc plated probably. I know, I know....I try to use stainless hardware wherever possible, but we had it in stock.

[rank]

some pics of my dirty old truck....

You can kinda see how even with the stack behind the bunk, the rack is still only 2" away from the bunk.

[allan5oh]

u-bolts on a headache rack!!!!! KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!