Anytime I drive down I-40 one can always observe the remains of recap tires along the highway or beside the road. Was wondering if recaps are that much cheaper than brand new virgin rubber tires? I know they're illegal to have on the front (steering) end of a rig.

 

A recap that is done right and is cared for by the driver(ie. inflation is correct, not hitting curbing and holes) can last just as long as a virgin tire. I know of guys that run retreads on all their drive positions and trailer, and don't have nearly as much tire trouble as other guys who only buy virgins, but don't keep up inflation pressures etc... I have bought a cheap & crappy recap to get out of a pinch once but that tire was off my trailer as soon as possible.

I have checked into putting goodyear Uni-circle retreads on the trailer next time I buy tires, I got a really great deal on some dunlop virgins this past time or I probably would have them now. Tires are like women and employers, take good care of them, and they will take good care of you.:thumbsup: If my chice is between a good retread and a new chinese tire I'll usually choose the retread. The treadwear and wear pattern on a off brand virgin is usually not really that great.

 

I agree with everything graintrain said, an I'll add this.

Not much difference in price retreads are almost as much as new, given that, I say buy new, you get what you pay for.

I run only virgin name brand tires, NO off shore crap for me.

 

I will believe that recaps are just as good as soon as it becomes legal to have them on the steer axle and flammable hazmat trucks

 

For what its worth, every tire on my truck and trailer is a virgin tire. The steers and all 8 on the trailer have less than 6 months on them. I do a lot of short runs and some days nearly all my miles are on gravel or shale roads. Probably 15% of my total miles every month are not on pavement. My drive tires catch a little heck with gravel and stop and go elevator or mill traffic. I didn't price the retread unicircles in the 24.5 for my drives, just 11 R 22.5 for the trailer, and I got new Dunlops for almost the same money. If I was running all highway, cross country and got alot of miles off a tire then new would be my choice, probably michelin. But I run local/regional and my tire life is shortened. Thats why I said if I got the price down enough, I would really look at recaps for the drives.

 

I have had one steer tire go kablammo with a load. It was on an old cabover. I check my steer tires religously and always go for the top notch tire. Drives and trailer tires are important but to a lesser extent (unless you are the guy driving the subaru next to the drive tire that just unpeeled):eek2:.

 

I only recently put caps on one of my trucks. I did have a problem with one of them, but the guy who put them on thought that something didn't quite look right with it. They replaced it at no charge. Other than the one problem they seem to be doing well on the truck. You don't want to constantly travel at 80 mph with caps, but I mostly drive at 65 or less, so it should not be a problem. In talking with tire people the key is to watch your tire pressure. As long as you keep your tire pressure up you should not have a problem running caps. If they continue doing well I may try them on the other truck. A friend of mine has been running caps for some time and he is the main reason that I tried them. Caps can save a lot of money on tire expense.

 

If the casings are yours I'd say you might be OK, BUT if you don't know how old they are or if they have ever been run flat, you are asking for trouble. Most tire shops will NOT sell the "good ones" to out of state trucks, they know that you will be long gone if there is a problem, however if it is your "regular" tire shop, I'd say maybe you got a chance, MAYBE.

Last time I priced a cap it was around $65.00 less than a virgin tire (Goodrich TR144 trailer) $235.00 for the cap and $300 for the tire, that's about $520 on a set of 8, plus you will not get any credit for those caps on trade, nor will you gat any credit for off shore casings, I got $40 each for my virgin Kelly Springfields

 

new... why...? fuel milage will go down with caps.

when they changed my drives last time they put caps on and my milage went down from 6.7 to 6.2.... if the caps were FREE it would only cost about $5000 extra a year for fuel (@ 3.00 fuel)

 

The newer Custom Molded Retreads from Michelin are pretty good tires. I would have no problem putting them up against new tires. I can get the XDA-23AT Custom Molded retread drive tires for $170 after the credit for my casings (that price was good 3 weeks ago). They have a 110 rolling resistance, so they will compete favorably with new drive tires regarding fuel, for those of us that watch this sort of thing. I get all my tires from the same dealer in my area, Allied Oil and Supply.

For me, they are the way to go. When taken care of, I have not experienced any more problems with 1st generation retreads than with new tires. Fleets that have them on trailers that get dropped and hooked seem to have the problems. I have never had one come apart on any tractor in over 15 years, but I watch my inflation pressure and take care of them.