BAD vibration / bounce
#13
Originally Posted by NotSteve
Yup, dead serious. If you have a vibration or bounce on a smooth road then you have something else wrong that shocks will NOT fix.
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"Professional stake killer with ability to operate heavy equipment"
#14
Originally Posted by NotSteve
Yup, dead serious. If you have a vibration or bounce on a smooth road then you have something else wrong that shocks will NOT fix.
#15
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 935
Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago
I guess that vibration that I had caused by a bad shock, which ruined my last pair of steers, was imaginary then.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KY
Posts: 77
The driver said when he was leaving the tire shop that day they told him that it could be where the drive axles were out of line and wore a slight feather on the drive tread and then we got the drive axles aligned to spec that the tires could bounce until they "wear in a little bit". Don't know that I buy that line, BUT........ last I spoke to the driver a few days ago he said the bounce seems to have gotten MUCH less than it was............ :?
ahhh............... now this bounce was so bad that there is no way you could get used to it and it seem to lessen over the miles...... it was B.A.D....... not a little vibration or even a moderate vibration, but a bounce, like one wheel was egg shaped or something. It was felt not so much in the seat, but the whole truck....... but you could tell it wasn't coming from the front - or atleast it sure didn't feel like the front at all...... no feedback in the steering wheel anyway. The truck needs shocks anyway, so I'll pick some up when I find a cheap source and put them on - not in an effort to solve the problem, but because I know it needs them. I just hate it when a problem appears and then goes away without finding the source. .........
#17
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 935
If you have a tire shop near your home just for trucks like I do you could ask them for a set of steers on rims to try. They call them Cows. Not sure what it stands for but they are a known perfect set for just this reason.
The shocks you may have to get from a dealer. They are all different in the amount of travel and you must get the correct length for your model. I had mine replaced and it took them 4 times longer to replace. The nuts had become one with the bolt and ended up using a torch but the head of the bolt on the other side was also one with the frame!
#18
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North East
Posts: 1,199
Originally Posted by NotSteve
I had mine replaced and it took them 4 times longer to replace. The nuts had become one with the bolt and ended up using a torch but the head of the bolt on the other side was also one with the frame!
Similar thing happened to one of the trucks on the Ice Road Truckers show. Maybe Steve was moonlighting. :lol:
#19
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
Posts: 3,280
I deal with that probably more then anyone, as I deal with the road salt a lot.
The trick is, use stainless steel bolts wherever you can. The problem with that, is it is very hard to find stainless steel bolts in metric. Believe it or not, they do not seem to sell them in Canada, I have to get them from the states. Whenever doing something like shocks, just cut the bolts and use new ones. With the new bolts, spray a good quality rust inhibitor all over the threads. Just soak it. I've also had a problem with bolts rusting right to he collar around it. Make sure you spray the inside of the collar if needed. |

