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  #11  
Old 03-15-2008, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdm
Take the bolt out, it locks the adjuster ring, Hold the clutch pedal to the floor with a bar/helper etc. Using a prybar turn the ring counterclockwise ( opposite engine rotation). Move it 5 or 6 notches & check the adjustment, freeplay should be decreasing & the release bg shouild move away from the transmission. Turn the ring until you have a 1/2 inch between the brg & transmission.

You only adjust the linkage if the clutch brake needs adjusting due to linkage wear, cab mounts etc, not for freeplay.
Actually the free play at the pedal will be increasing when you turn the adjusting ring clockwise.

Those old type adjustment rings with the "lockstrap" also had a nasty habit of getting jammed so the ring wouldn't turn. I've had to use a hammer & drift to break that type free occasionally. Hopefully the one in firebird's truck will still turn.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:27 PM
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Thanks to all for the replies.

I finally got everything straightened out.

When you guys kept saying "Adjuster Ring" I was thinking along the lines of something maybe the size of a bolt head. I didn't realize that the ring is actually almost the size of the pressure plate. Interesting...

I did have to use a hammer & drift, but after just a few taps it started to move fairly easily. The clutch feels great now and the freeplay is right. It even slides right into gear without grinding from idle.

Now we have to get that turbo replaced and my truck will be ready to go.

Thanks,

Dave
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2008, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitshifter
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9200IH
On the firewall there should be your clutch linkage. Take the clevise pin out and adjust it tell you have 1/2" free play. Probably will be about 5-6 turns on the clevice.
Never, Never, Never adjust the free travel on a double disc pull type clutch by messing with the external linkage!

Adjust only at the adjuster on the pressure plate.

...unless you're replacing the clutch altogether, but even then the internal adjustment (at the clutch cover) is still done first

.... or, if it's a solo
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:36 PM
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While we are on the subject of clutches, I have a question. My clutch adjustment is fine. I do my own adjustments and have for years on all the trucks I have driven. I have replaced clutches and trannys. No problems there, but my question is, what might be the noise coming from the clutch? It happens when I get on the fuel a little bit. It's sort of a chatter. Not to bad, but it drives me nuts. No slipage or anything. The noise will travel up threw the pedal from leaning on the bracket on the firewall. If I press in the pedal a little of the noise goes away, but I can still hear it and feel it a bit. It almost feels like at an idle in neutral the clutch is engaged a little. Good clutch with worn pilot bearing? I will replace clutch soon just because the noise is making me crazy. I don't want to though if there is a cure.
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Old 03-18-2008, 11:48 PM
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Funny you should mention this. The exact same thing was happening to me. This was before they replaced the clutch and all that. But when I first got the truck the rattle from the clutch was driving me nuts. If I just pushed the clutch in enough to take up some of the slack, the noise went away.

I replaced the clutch return spring with a slightly stiffer spring and it fixed the problem. Just a suggestion.

Dave
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  #16  
Old 03-19-2008, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidman82
While we are on the subject of clutches, I have a question. My clutch adjustment is fine. I do my own adjustments and have for years on all the trucks I have driven. I have replaced clutches and trannys. No problems there, but my question is, what might be the noise coming from the clutch? It happens when I get on the fuel a little bit. It's sort of a chatter. Not to bad, but it drives me nuts. No slipage or anything. The noise will travel up threw the pedal from leaning on the bracket on the firewall. If I press in the pedal a little of the noise goes away, but I can still hear it and feel it a bit. It almost feels like at an idle in neutral the clutch is engaged a little. Good clutch with worn pilot bearing? I will replace clutch soon just because the noise is making me crazy. I don't want to though if there is a cure.

The pilot bearing is not turning when clutch is fully engaged.

Check inside on the bottom of the bell housing for pieces of broken springs.
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2008, 01:53 AM
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As for chunks, I was in there for my last adjustment, and everything was clean. It's been doing it for about 7 months. Never gets worse, never gets better. If it is my pilot bearing, I will just change clutch while I'm in there. Tranny has to come out anyway.

Thanks for the suggestion on the spring.
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2008, 02:13 AM
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Default Clutch Adj.

sidman82, I have the same "noise" problem you have. Adj. is good, no slippage, but a "rattleing" noise that comes up through the clutch pedal, push the pedal down a tad and the noise quits. Does it mostly when the truck is not pulling or decelerating (neutral load). '03 Pete 600k.
What'd you figure out?
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2008, 01:04 AM
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I'm inclined to agree with Bob on this one. Loose or broken springs causing some "beating" in the clutch center hubs. Or possibly just some loose/worn linkage.
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  #20  
Old 04-09-2008, 02:39 AM
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Default Clutch Adj.

Talked to some knowledgeable friends and as soon as I get back home I'm going in for a clutch. Maybe overkill, but in my past experience, noise is an indicator of problems. I'll update later.
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