This was more for another board, but I'll post it here as well:

Easy stuff here guys. Real easy!

1) Brake chambers. When you're under the truck greasing it properly(LOTS in u-joints, kingpins, and spring bushings, not as much everywhere else), bang on your spring brake chambers. If they rattle, the spring is broken, and it WILL puncture the diaphragm. When you change that chamber(you can get a shop to do it, they do them all the time), INSIST on a "haldex LIFE SEAL" brake chamber. These chambers are completely sealed, and the springs will not rust inside them.

http://tinyurl.com/2ywl49

As you can see, the caging bolt is also permanently installed. This is very good!

2) Air dryers. When was the last time you change the dessicant cartridge and purge valve? More then 2 years? Change it now. This item can leave you stranded! You also want to know if your air compressor is pumping out any garbage(coolant, oil). If it is, it will need to be changed as well. Also, the heater must work on the unit. Turn the key on for 5 minutes, go under the truck where the air dryer is. By the purge valve, it should be warm to the touch. If it isn't, then it needs to be changed. If you do not change it, come winter the purge valve will stick OPEN leaving you STRANDED as your air system cannot build up air. I've seen this happen about once a year to trucks. Changing the dessicant cartridge ensures that moisture is not getting into the system.


3) Tire pressure. Check it once a week right? Well, let's get a little more detailed. Changing tires? Get the stems, valves, everything replaced! Make sure they tighten the stem properly as well. A loose stem can be problematic. If you notice one tire always going down, odds are the stem or the valve inside the stem is screwed. Take it back to the tire shop, and demand they tighten the stem free of charge. I think this involves taking the tire off.

4) Power steering. Did you know there's a power steering filter, and most manufacturers recommend changing it about once every 1-2 years? Truth is, I changed mine for the first time since new, about 800,000 miles. In a word, wow. No longer whined at slow speeds, and handled so much better! No more "dead spots". Also stopped a couple of slow leaks. You can blow lines just because the filter hasn't been changed.

5) Ride height. This is vital. If you're ride height is out, you'll notice sometimes you'll get driveline vibrations. Or if it's really bad, all the time. Go to the truck OEM and get instructions on how to set it properly, and follow that perfectly. If your driveline is out, you can destroy u-joints, carrier bearings, and many other things. Your ride will be rough, handling poor, and back will HURT! Correcting ride height ensures the driveshaft angles are correct. Don't believe me? Dump the air on your truck, and look at the REAR driveshaft. Unless you have a kenworth 8 bag suspension, the drive shaft angles will be TERRIBLE.

6) Shocks. I changed all 10 of mine, and thought it wasn't necessary before I changed them. Boy was I wrong. Every single one was shot, but you couldn't tell it until you pulled it off. Dead spots, and spots where it would jump about an inch and do nothing. Huge improvement in ride, handling, and tire wear.

7) Batteries. I know what you're thinking, get the 975 or 1000 CCA batteries right? Sure, if you want short battery life! Get some CAT 825 CCA "starting and deep cycle" batteries. Part # 175-4370. One of my favorite cat products. Here's a link:

http://www.cat.com/cda/components/fu...?m=37407&x=7&i...

825 CCA, that's not enough! BULLCRAP. I've started my truck at a nice -40, and it started just fine with these batteries!

Why the lower CCA you ask? Higher CCA batteries have thinner plates. Thinner plates lead to much shorter life. I'm on my 2nd winter with these batteries, and they seem rock solid. Higher CCA batteries wouldn't last 2 winters. I know guys that change them every 2 years because they cycle them. Any sort of cycling KILLS 975/1000 CCA batteries. Even a small espar heater that only draws 2 amps.

If you want the best of the best, get some odyssey pc2150's. But they're not cheap at $250 a pop or so. These are HIGHER CCA batteries, but they use a new technology called "AGM" (absorbed glass mat). The CCA's are 1150, and because of this new technology they can be cycled without degradation, and plates disintegrating.

Also with batteries, check the connections of the wiring. I've killed batteries just from having a loose connection. Also, the ECM wiring is direct to the batteries. If that comes loose, your engine will cut out intermittently.

8) Test coolant. Every fall, I test my coolant to make sure the freezing point is -60, and that it doesn't need an additive. I have green coolant. The "coolant filter" isn't actually a filter, it's an additive. This year I had to put a new one on, the strip said the additives were low. Usually you can change the "filter" by closing off a valve, this is real easy. Red coolant does NOT have an add pack, but sometimes has a real filter. Some red coolant systems have nothing at all.

That's it for today folks.

 

Not necessarily, Most newer Bendix driers have thermostats on the heater. To test it, the truck will have to be outside in the cold. Unplug the wires and check it with a continuity tester. You should have continuity. The other way to check it is remove the heating element and put it in the freezer for a few minutes, then check for continuity. After it warms up to room temp again, check it again and there should be no continuity. If this is the case, then the heater is good. If not, it needs to be replaced.

OR, just replace it when you change the desiccant, and while you are at it, change the purge valve too. It really doesn't cost that much more and can save you in the long run, especially if you only service it every 2 years.

 

Thank you for the excellent info allan....I just printed this out and intend to make use of this.