Front shock replacement
#1
Guest
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I just had my rear shocks replaced and my front ones look real easy to get to but not sure what to expect. Does replacing the front shocks require the truck to be jacked up and down at certain points during the removal or installation?
#2
Originally Posted by SteveBooth
I just had my rear shocks replaced and my front ones look real easy to get to but not sure what to expect. Does replacing the front shocks require the truck to be jacked up and down at certain points during the removal or installation?
Yes - you are going to have to jack it to line the holes up.
#3
Originally Posted by SteveBooth
I just had my rear shocks replaced and my front ones look real easy to get to but not sure what to expect. Does replacing the front shocks require the truck to be jacked up and down at certain points during the removal or installation?
shocks do not support vehicle weight, they resist spring oscillation (bouncing) the mounting bolts can be difficult; if it has a stud on the top, the threads could be corroded badly enough that the nut binds up, it may require the torch. some eye-ends (top or bottom) have a long pivot bolt, and quite often, it don't wanna move. shop experience generally has you cutting the fasteners off with the torch and installing new to save precious shop labor rate time the gas-charged shocks will extend when you remove the packing wire, they can be compressed by installing the bottom end first, and then leaning your weight onto the shock to compress... purposely push it in too far, and then push it onto the top bolt as it extends out to that length. tighten the bolts enough to compress the rubber bushings but not enough to crush them... too much crush will cause the outer part of the bushing to split and tear away
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Bob H
#4
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Originally Posted by bob h
Originally Posted by SteveBooth
I just had my rear shocks replaced and my front ones look real easy to get to but not sure what to expect. Does replacing the front shocks require the truck to be jacked up and down at certain points during the removal or installation?
shocks do not support vehicle weight, they resist spring oscillation (bouncing) the mounting bolts can be difficult; if it has a stud on the top, the threads could be corroded badly enough that the nut binds up, it may require the torch. some eye-ends (top or bottom) have a long pivot bolt, and quite often, it don't wanna move. shop experience generally has you cutting the fasteners off with the torch and installing new to save precious shop labor rate time the gas-charged shocks will extend when you remove the packing wire, they can be compressed by installing the bottom end first, and then leaning your weight onto the shock to compress... purposely push it in too far, and then push it onto the top bolt as it extends out to that length. tighten the bolts enough to compress the rubber bushings but not enough to crush them... too much crush will cause the outer part of the bushing to split and tear away Thanks.
#9
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by allan5oh
Whatever you do, make sure there's lots of anti-seize on the bolts when it goes back together. You'll thank me later!
I remember put shocks on a car once before. These were the type that just had a rod sticking out of the top and threaded at the end. I connected the bottom first then after an hour trying to grab the skinny rod to pull it up I had to take it out and do the top first!!! My life's story, do the job, then take it apart and do it again right. |

