Truck Driving Jobs

heavyhaulerss · #11 02-09-2007, 03:51 AM

forgot to mention. i replaced rad cap.. that was the first thing. in fact i got one from dealer who ran vin to make sure it was the correct lbs of pressure for my particuliar truck... i will say one thing i recently as of 2 days ago replaced a hose that has been on truck since i had it. maybe never changed since new.. it was a hose that ran from bottom back of water pump to one side of water filter. some trucks have water filters & some dont. mine does. anyway this hose was completely dry & totaly blocked. i replaced it. still no difference. when your in ohio & temp is 26 your idling & temp climbs from 180 to 215 in 30 min something aint right.

#12 02-09-2007, 04:28 AM

Heavyhauler sounds like there is a plugged core or something in the radiator will take more time to flush it out than to just change it out. Yes the cost will be higher however you will gain a brand new radiator and not have the probelms of a plugged radiator. You may get the raditor flushed and end up with more problems in the end.

Bobby · #13 02-09-2007, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavyhaulerss

forgot to mention. i replaced rad cap.. that was the first thing. in fact i got one from dealer who ran vin to make sure it was the correct lbs of pressure for my particuliar truck... i will say one thing i recently as of 2 days ago replaced a hose that has been on truck since i had it. maybe never changed since new.. it was a hose that ran from bottom back of water pump to one side of water filter. some trucks have water filters & some dont. mine does. anyway this hose was completely dry & totaly blocked. i replaced it. still no difference. when your in ohio & temp is 26 your idling & temp climbs from 180 to 215 in 30 min something aint right.

Well there you go, if that hose was completely blocked there is surely blockage throughout the system.
What was blocking the hose ??

heavyhaulerss · #14 02-09-2007, 05:23 PM

i'm not sure what was blocking hose looked like rusted shut.. i think it may have been the bars leak that i put in a years ago to stop leak until i could get home. it sure stopped leak at back of water pump. may have clogged the hose too. the hose i changed had a built in real narrow metal 90 elbow. i think that is where the clog started in that particuliar hose. the other hoses are not blocked. some restriction somewhere... i will take every hose off & make sure no restrictions. i have a caboveer, so installing a new rad would be harder than on conventional. any blockage will prob not be in any of the 2'' hoses. most likely in the 3/8 type hoses & in the elbows, or in the rad itself.

allan5oh · #15 02-09-2007, 07:40 PM

DONT EVER USE THAT STUFF AGAIN!

It is utter garbage! Your rad is probably somewhat plugged, and I gaurantee your heater core isn't doing so good!

bob h · #16 02-09-2007, 10:20 PM

quote="heavyhaulerss"]i'm not sure what was blocking hose looked like rusted shut.. i think it may have been the bars leak that i put in a years ago to stop leak until i could get home.

why didn't you tell us that in your original post?.... that would have redirected this entire discussion

it sure stopped leak at back of water pump. may have clogged the hose too. the hose i changed had a built in real narrow metal 90 elbow. i think that is where the clog started in that particuliar hose. the other hoses are not blocked. some restriction somewhere... i will take every hose off & make sure no restrictions. i have a caboveer, so installing a new rad would be harder than on conventional. any blockage will prob not be in any of the 2'' hoses. most likely in the 3/8 type hoses & in the elbows, or in the rad itself.[/quote

heavyhaulerss · #17 02-11-2007, 07:38 PM

i didnt mention the bars leak cause i forgot all about it. sorry bob.. with a truck , a wife & 6 kids. things do slip my mind... lil. after driving same truck for over 7 years i forget all ive done to it. unless something big. if there is anything i should do [b]now considering the adding of stop leak.. by all means let me know..

bob h · #18 02-12-2007, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavyhaulerss

i didnt mention the bars leak cause i forgot all about it. sorry bob.. with a truck , a wife & 6 kids. things do slip my mind... lil. after driving same truck for over 7 years i forget all ive done to it. unless something big. if there is anything i should do [b]now considering the adding of stop leak.. by all means let me know..

http://www.classadrivers.com/phpBB2/...er=asc&start=0

flush the cooling system. if you're changing the rad, flush anything that can still be holding the "rad blocker compound"; engine, heater core, valves, etc.

mrpersons · #19 02-12-2007, 01:06 PM

Last fall, I decided it was time for a flush and change out the coolant in "ol Betsey", after all the stuff had been in there for about five years. Anyway, I went "whole hog" on the deal, new hoses, flush, etc. I noticed I was getting a lot of crap out with the flush, and to help it along, I used low pressure air introduced at the bottom of the radiator while idleing with a hose at the top. Man did that ever work good! Took about 2 hrs to get clear water out of it, truck is ten pounds lighter too! Sure was messy though. Note: Just use enough air to agitate the water in the radiator. do not presserise.

heavyhaulerss · #20 02-13-2007, 06:50 AM

thank you fro the info mrpersons.