1. Science also dictates that you look at the results and make an informed decision. If the engine wear patterns are higher with a particular product, it might not be the best solution. My engine wear numbers were higher using full synthetics. I used the science of tribology (oil analysis) to determine that and determining the oil change interval my engine seems to like. I would get spikes of metal wear and such after around 30,000 miles and TBN would go from a gradual decrease to a spike downward. This is with all oils, synthetic and traditional, that I have tried. Just my engine I guess, so I have settled in on 25,000 to 30,000 mile service intervals.

2. Saving money? Maybe. Even at wally world pricing, I can purchase three times the brand of oil I use compared to the full synthetics (I would have to factor in my time to go get the stuff or have it shipped and the cost for me to do it compared to the fact my oil is delivered free to my house). Factor that into the statement I made above, and there is no cost saving to me using full synthetics. Actually, the cost is more to do so. Others may find that reversed, depending on their operation.

3. Protecting the environment. ALL of my used oils, from my auto, farm tractor, semi whether engine, hydraulic, or gear oil gets recycled back to my oil supplier. They pick it up for free from me when they deliver a barrel of new oil to me. None of it goes to waste. Just because someone is changing their oil sooner than you does not mean they are screwing up the environment. Even the Group IV full synthetics are products made from natural resources.... natural gas. The Group III full synthetics are just very highly hydrocracked mineral oils. Research it for yourself. Now for your test on Friday.... which brands are primarily Group IV synthetic and which are primarily Group III synthetic?

Some of us actually have given this whole topic a lot of thought.

As was stated earlier.... there is no "tax free". Shows you have not done much tax filing. For every dollar spent, you may save .20 in taxes. For every dollar not spent, you get to pay. Either way you lose.

 

Needing a write off??? You really should rethink that logic, are you better off saving $1000. and having it to spend on whatever you want or spend that $1000 on a "write off" just so you don't pay $250 to the gvmt in tax?
As far as TA getting you in and out, you must have better luck than me last time it was 5 hours and that's with an appt! And the last 2x I get there and the say "we're out of grease"! Great customer service there! If I had a choice ....

 

Not to put you down, but it appears you have erroneously settled on a low number!

The ONLY two numbers that really tell you the oil quality has degraded (to the point of needing an oil change), are TBN and % soot (also viscosity, but it runs hand-in-hand with soot level).

Every other parameter tells you about the quality of the engine only, which is superfluous information, because there is nothing you can do about them, short of changing out your entire engine! So if your engine runs fine, you only need to monitor the two numbers I mentioned.

A "high wear metals" number is a symptom, not a cause, and have NO effect on the quality of the oil. The parts per million of them are incredibly low, and the particle size is extremely small (i.e. your oil filter filters out "large" ones), so they DO NOT cause additional wear to your engine.

 

You have seen my oil samples via radar? No, TBN and soot are not the only items to look for. You look for patterns in wear metals, viscosity, etc. All of these will change gradually. If one or more of them shows a pattern of spiking one way or the other at a consistent time on oil, it needs to be factored into the oil change interval as well. Viscosity does not run "hand in hand" with soot. Oil shear will change the viscosity while even the soot remains low. High oil shear can be a function of the oil type or the environment the engine is operated in.

I never said that higher wear metals increase the wear. You are trying to make me look like I said what I didn't.

Look, you can try as best you can to change my reasoning on this. Won't happen. I have more than a few years college level science courses and hands on experience analyzing used oil samples to feel comfortable with the choices I have made regarding my engine. If you get higher oil change intervals with your engine in your operation, great. Never said you couldn't. But don't presume to know my engine, my operation, my used oil samples, and then make blanket judgements. Get off of the glossy sales ads for these things. There is no one size fits all solution for anything in the real world.

 

Common good sense. More people should listen.

 

LOL. This place cracks me up.

 

I agree Rev. But just out of plain curiosity, Which side of the argument do you sit? Are you a dino oil guy or do you follow the logic of the hardcore synthetic guys? I am on neither side with this question just curious to your input because you always seem to have entertaining responses.

 

OK, you agree that wear metals do not cause your engine to wear, why change your oil then, if other parameters are fine?

The whole point of engine oil is to prevent engine wear. The whole point of changing your oil is to prevent engine wear! NO other reason.

Wear metals are a sign of an ENGINE problem, not an OIL problem. Wear metals are telling you something is going wrong with some engine part. But not which one, so knowing is useless, unless it causes you panic and trade-in your truck for another.

BTW: I have an engineering degree from UCF, so I too took several college level science courses too. Prior to becoming an O/O in '05, I worked for Lockheed Martin seven (7) years at Cape Canaveral Air Force Station, launching both Atlas & Titan rockets w/ billion dollar payloads. So I too, am not some moron just blabbering.

 

I hope you weren't signing off on any repairs.

 

Obviously you must not have been very good at it if now you're a truck driver.:rofl: