[motorking]

While this thread is going, may I ask this question? I drive a 2001 International 9200. On the lower left dash, next to the starter button, there is a toggle switch labeled "traction control" can someone tell me what it does, and when to use it? Thanks

[kc0rpm]

All the traction controll usually does is reduce power if it detects slipping. My KW has an automatic ASR and it tends to piss me off but i guess it does its job.

[AlaskaT800]

Kind of an old thread, but good to bump.

I use inter axle quite a bit driving in Alaska. The idea is to get that last bit of traction so you don't spin out and have to throw chains. Where I use it most is locking in just before making a run at a long hill climb in winter conditions. I slow a bit to engage, then make my best run at the hill. Once cleared, unlock and go on my merry way. Inter axle is great for keeping speed for the climb and not getting so slow that engine torque breaks the tires loose.

Joe

[classictruckman]

Originally Posted by Mackman

i know in my MACK with the diff. lock on a loud azz buzzer comes on and stays on intill you take the diff. lock off.

Your's too eh?, did your Mack have it on the signal light too? That has to be the most annoying thing in the world.

[freebirdrfd]

Good bump for winter time.

[Thompson Pass Trucker]

Originally Posted by Orangetxguy

Power Dividers today are far and away superior to the power dividers of the 60's, 70's and early 80's. Technology ...go figure.

Now...the Wheel Differential Lock..that is sweet, if you are chained up, pulling 105,000 pounds, and climbing a mountain. It makes it tough though, if you have it engaged and try to turn a 90 degree corner. Lot's of crow hopping, even at slow crawl.

If you're always (or most of the time) on pavement ALL of the above apply. If you're on slippery stuff, whether mud, sand, ice or snow the cautions about engaging while spinning are absolutely correct - you can blow up a differential by engaging any one of them with literally any difference in speed of the wheels. And, once you've engaged, as soon as you get back onto tractive surface you'd better disengage something.

However, at least in Alaska during the winter when there is a shoulder-to-shoulder sheet of ice or compacted snow, it's not unheard of to run at 55-65 300 miles and more with the Inter-Axle Lock engaged. It's also not that uncommon to drive with one Wheel Differential Lock engaged. Sometimes, during the worst of conditions, you can run for a few hundred miles with both the Inter-Axle and one (JUST ONE) Diff Lock.

A tandem-axle truck or tractor has One-Wheel-Drive - maybe the front, maybe the rear axle, but only one side of one axle. Usually the side with the least traction will start to spin causing loss of traction and forward motion. Engaging the Inter-Axle Lock will give you one wheel on EACH axle because it engages a gear that passes the power to each axle - that would give you Two-Wheels driving; again, one on each axle. Engaging the Diff Lock will give you Two-Wheel drive also, but only on one axle; both axles don't have power to them so only one will drive. Engaging the Inter-Axle Lock AND one Diff Lock will give you Three-Wheel drive; both axles, and both wheels on the 'locked' axle. It is also possible, with 'triple lockers,' to lock the Inter Axle and BOTH Diff Locks giving you Four-Wheel drive; both axles and both wheels on each axle. I've never seen a truck set up with Diff Locks on both axles but no Inter-Axle lock so I didn't discuss the possibility of both wheels on one axle driving and the other axle simply tagging along.

The remarks on understeer are very accurate and true. The Inter-Axle lock doesn't really affect your steering too much. However, with the Diff Lock engaged there is a tendency of the truck to run straight. The puny steer tires simply don't have the traction to overcome the tendency of the drive tires to go straight. And with BOTH Diff Locks engaged it's nearly impossible to turn the truck because all of the drive tires want to go straight and the puny steer tires don't have the traction to overcome them.

I can't emphasize two most important facts enough: NEVER engage any of the locks when there is a difference in wheel speed - NOT WHEN SPINNING, and; if everything is locked up (Inter-Axle and both Differentials) you're in a dangerous condition because steering is severely compromised. At any speed and/or for any distance this is simply deadly.

If there are any doubters next time you're stuck take a close look at which wheels ARE or ARE NOT turning/spinning. I've been stuck on glare ice on flat-level ground and had more than enough opportunities to observe this step-by-step. I've had all four drive wheels spinning - and everything locked up - and not been able to move but put a chain on a single tire and gotten moving. I've also had one wheel spinning and not been able to move. I chained it and the other wheel on the same axle started to spin. I locked the axle and got moving again. I've used the Diff lock and had one wheel on each axle spinning - chained one of the 'spinners' and had the other wheel on that axle spin along with the original spinner.

[mitchno1]

we have just got cummins and cat in New Zealand to put codes into our motors so when u push traction button it actualy disables it properly not how it used to be, rather keep going than derating

[Ferry]

Originally Posted by gladman

Can someone tell me the proper use of the inter axle lock? My mechanic told me never to drive over 25mph with it on, it's only smart to use it when in a yard backing up or starting out.

A tow truck guy told me I can use it when on ice or snow, especially when trying to slow down with the engine brake on.

Advice please.

Periodically, the valve should be operated to make sure it moves freely; normally the valve should be kept in the unlock position.

[mitchno1]

THAT ALL GOOD MATE BUT WHEN YOU OFF ROAD TRACTION CONTROL LAST thing you want, you want all wheels going

[LBF]

Thank you Thompson Pass Trucker, this write-up is EXCELLENT and a must read for those who didn't know!

For those who haven't had the experience, having that one dual start spinning 3/4 of the way up a winter road is trouble! Very difficult to get it going again once stopped, assuming that you didn't already get it all crooked and into the ditch making the attempt before admitting defeat and chaining up.

The inter-axle also comes in handy in a bumpy yard, where you get a set of duals hanging in a depression spinning.

In the world of automated transmissions, spec'ing both an inter-axle and differential locks in fleet trucks are becoming more popular, as automated trucks have a bad habit of getting stuck in places a clutch would help ease you out. Like wet snow covered parking lots... lots of new drivers got yelled at in the beginning, but when your grizzled veterans start calling in stuck too...

Beware of the driving instructor/safety supervisor, with his ultimate authority, he easily falls into the trap of not checking his facts.
Who is going to challenge him? Pretty easy for him to say to the boss you didn't hear him right...

Drivers, protect yourselves, without verifiable sources and some written instructions, all that crap that was said out loud to us over the years must be viewed with suspicion.

Regardless of transmission, my bias in choosing a truck that will operate where there is the possibility of snow would be to have both inter-axle and differential locks available, and do some training with the drivers as to how easy it is to use them, and how easy it is to make the decisions as to engaging and disengaging.

Originally Posted by Thompson Pass Trucker

If you're always (or most of the time) on pavement ALL of the above apply. If you're on slippery stuff, whether mud, sand, ice or snow the cautions about engaging while spinning are absolutely correct - you can blow up a differential by engaging any one of them with literally any difference in speed of the wheels. And, once you've engaged, as soon as you get back onto tractive surface you'd better disengage something.

However, at least in Alaska during the winter when there is a shoulder-to-shoulder sheet of ice or compacted snow, it's not unheard of to run at 55-65 300 miles and more with the Inter-Axle Lock engaged. It's also not that uncommon to drive with one Wheel Differential Lock engaged. Sometimes, during the worst of conditions, you can run for a few hundred miles with both the Inter-Axle and one (JUST ONE) Diff Lock.

A tandem-axle truck or tractor has One-Wheel-Drive - maybe the front, maybe the rear axle, but only one side of one axle. Usually the side with the least traction will start to spin causing loss of traction and forward motion. Engaging the Inter-Axle Lock will give you one wheel on EACH axle because it engages a gear that passes the power to each axle - that would give you Two-Wheels driving; again, one on each axle. Engaging the Diff Lock will give you Two-Wheel drive also, but only on one axle; both axles don't have power to them so only one will drive. Engaging the Inter-Axle Lock AND one Diff Lock will give you Three-Wheel drive; both axles, and both wheels on the 'locked' axle. It is also possible, with 'triple lockers,' to lock the Inter Axle and BOTH Diff Locks giving you Four-Wheel drive; both axles and both wheels on each axle. I've never seen a truck set up with Diff Locks on both axles but no Inter-Axle lock so I didn't discuss the possibility of both wheels on one axle driving and the other axle simply tagging along.

The remarks on understeer are very accurate and true. The Inter-Axle lock doesn't really affect your steering too much. However, with the Diff Lock engaged there is a tendency of the truck to run straight. The puny steer tires simply don't have the traction to overcome the tendency of the drive tires to go straight. And with BOTH Diff Locks engaged it's nearly impossible to turn the truck because all of the drive tires want to go straight and the puny steer tires don't have the traction to overcome them.

I can't emphasize two most important facts enough: NEVER engage any of the locks when there is a difference in wheel speed - NOT WHEN SPINNING, and; if everything is locked up (Inter-Axle and both Differentials) you're in a dangerous condition because steering is severely compromised. At any speed and/or for any distance this is simply deadly.

If there are any doubters next time you're stuck take a close look at which wheels ARE or ARE NOT turning/spinning. I've been stuck on glare ice on flat-level ground and had more than enough opportunities to observe this step-by-step. I've had all four drive wheels spinning - and everything locked up - and not been able to move but put a chain on a single tire and gotten moving. I've also had one wheel spinning and not been able to move. I chained it and the other wheel on the same axle started to spin. I locked the axle and got moving again. I've used the Diff lock and had one wheel on each axle spinning - chained one of the 'spinners' and had the other wheel on that axle spin along with the original spinner.