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Old 07-04-2007, 12:55 PM
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Default Engine Brake 1 2 3 what do theses settings mean?

Hey all,
The last time I drove was for Stevens, and they didn't have engine brakes. Now I see in my truck a switch that has numbers 1,2,and 3 on it for settings. Can anyone tell me what these numbers mean?
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:03 PM
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Setting one means only 2 clylinders of engine brakes are on 2 means 4 clyinders are on 3 means they are all on.
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:33 PM
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So it seems like then if I'm going down a grade at gross then setting 3 would be used, and the other 2 settings are for lesser grades or weights?
Also can they be switched from one to the other without damage?
Going down a grade on 2 and the switching to 3 if there is not enough engine braking for the grade.

This is the one thing I hated about Stevens, they would not even give you info on this brake system because (as the story goes) Big Mr. Stevens was in his corner office overlooking th yard one day and a driver came into the yard with straight dual 5's and blasted the engine brake all the way to the fuel island,...he then said no more engine brakes,....or so the story goes.
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghouse
So it seems like then if I'm going down a grade at gross then setting 3 would be used, and the other 2 settings are for lesser grades or weights?
I've always just used the 3 setting so I get maximum engine braking.
Either I want the engine brake on full or I don't want it on at all.
Quote:
Also can they be switched from one to the other without damage?
Yes.

Quote:
This is the one thing I hated about Stevens, they would not even give you info on this brake system because (as the story goes) Big Mr. Stevens was in his corner office overlooking th yard one day and a driver came into the yard with straight dual 5's and blasted the engine brake all the way to the fuel island,...he then said no more engine brakes,....or so the story goes.
Maybe he should have said all the trucks will have mufflers instead of eliminating an important safety factor by saying "no more engine brakes".

And, maybe he should have made sure that the engine brakes are used properly. Approaching a fuel island in the yard is not a situation where an engine brake is necessary.
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:44 PM
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Yeah Split,
The safety issue was what everyone was complaining about the most, and it seems as though a set of mufflers would make a huge differance in the sound.
I just tried mine out the other day, and I have to get a muffler as well, my truck has a single 4" up the back of the sleeper, and its way too loud when that brake kicks on.

And thanks Eagle for the info,....I have a few more mystery switches on the dash I'll be asking about soon.
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:26 PM
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1 = Pretty much do nothing. Slows you down for toll booth

2 = Good braking

3 = Oh CRAP, I am so F$^%*


(Kidding)
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:31 PM
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If your cruise control is on then leave the engine brake on #3. When your speed is over 3 mph it will automatically come on #1. If your speed is still going up it will come on #2 then #3.

You will figure how to use it on your own pretty quick. Another trick is to turn the engine fan on when the Jake or lower gear isn't quit enough.

Where's that nimrod rat bastard defecting CAM
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Old 07-04-2007, 07:27 PM
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To add fuel to the fire, the Intebrake on the Cummins ISX can be configured with a 6 position switch.

I rode in a Scania chassis bus while in Mexico that used a hydraulic retarder (like a CAT brakesaver) and that sucker did a good job of keeping the bus in check on downgrades. No noise at all but you could feel the retarder slowing down the bus. It had a multi position lever as well as an automatic setting that would engage the retarder automatically when the brakes were pressed. The main drawbacks are a slight delay in braking action due to the time it take to pressurize the unit with hydraulic oil and the heat that it generates when it slows the vehicle.

Allison offers a similar hydraulic retarder. A company called Telma makes one that uses electromagnets.
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:07 PM
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Right now my engine fan is on all the time,..I have to get that fixed. I see some wires that are disconnected near the fan housing (a solenoid of sorts), so I'll start there.
I like to figure this stuff out myself (the repairs anyway) so I can fix it on the road when it breaks.

Hey you ain't makin' no $$$ sitting on this forum.
I got offered a load today Jax Fl to Plattsburg NY reload to Dallas 25,000lbs for $2.25 per mile. Now I just need to post my truck for real, and go make some $$ on this investment.
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveBooth
If your cruise control is on then leave the engine brake on #3. When your speed is over 3 mph it will automatically come on #1. If your speed is still going up it will come on #2 then #3.
Not all trucks do this. Mine certainly doesn't. In fact, over the entire time I've been driving, I've only been in one truck that does do this.

Quote:
You will figure how to use it on your own pretty quick. Another trick is to turn the engine fan on when the Jake or lower gear isn't quit enough.
Don't you people have brakes?

Come on Steve - if you are so desperate for braking power that you're gonna use the Jake, a lower gear, and the engine fan, then you were going way too fast in the first place.

That is horrible advice you just gave.
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