[Windwalker]

Originally Posted by Brown67

My Colorado manual says the same thing. The light pressure is very very light. I think its just enough to keep the brake lights on. When I came down I think I was a gear to high and the truck would try to run from me and I needed to apply more pressure. UPS is a huge company, so I'm sure they have more than studied this technique out. Just so different from what I learned and studied in the past.

Or, those in charge are "old school" and have not been informed of the latest information about braking. I'd be interested in what some of the schools are teaching these days.

[Hawkjr]

Originally Posted by Orangetxguy

And here I was thinking that UPS had jakes on their trucks.

i heard one of them visions pulling into a rest area laying on the jake!! sounds nice to!!

[Brown67]

I'm not an off the street hire for UPS. I've been a package cars driver for 15 years and I'm moving to feeders. That's where most of our tractor trailer drivers come from. Not sure I explained the method very well. Something about the slight pressure not allowing air (sorry not oxygen) between the pads and the drum helps prevent the brakes from catching on fire. Like blowing on a red hot piece of metal. It glows brighter (hotter) when you blow on it. That's what they don't want is for the metal on the drums to get hotter. I know UPS is a little old school, but they also will change driving methods in heart beat if its safer. I wonder since we pull so many doubles if the slight pressure helps control them better.

Also, some trucks have jake brakes and some don't. If you are just running around town swapping out trailers at customers then you don't need a jake. If you are driving on hills then you'll have a jake. Since, I was training then didn't want me to have a jake. The runs I'll be doing won't put me in the mountains.

[LightsChromeHorsepower]

Back when I first got my CDL (early 70's) I'm pretty sure the CA written test wanted intermittent braking.

Now they want light & steady.

My opinion is the new way may well be better. It certainly works.

[ssoutlaw]

Originally Posted by Brown67

I know its strange, but they want very light pressure on the brakes all the way down. Don't let off until at the bottom of the grade.

Nothing strange about it! Its how it is done, although there are some who will argue with you about it, and try to talk you into the stab method....lol

[ssoutlaw]

Originally Posted by Windwalker

Or, those in charge are "old school" and have not been informed of the latest information about braking. I'd be interested in what some of the schools are teaching these days.

Sense when is old school worse than now?? Why did it work back then but some how not now?? Think about it! The right gear and steady light pressure is the ticket!!!!!!

[golfhobo]

Originally Posted by Brown67

I wonder since we pull so many doubles if the slight pressure helps control them better.

As a newly conscripted wiggle wagon driver, I am prone to believe that this is exactly what is behind their reasoning. Not only because the inherent delay in the airline is magnified by the numerous connections, but also because the articulation at the dolly constitutes a different dynamic than that of a 53 footer.

IOW.... you don't want to ADD to the "crack the whip" action by intermittently, and unevenly, stabbing brakes on wheels that are tracking on different paths.

Let the flaming begin. :lol2:

[Snowman7]

Originally Posted by golfhobo

As a newly conscripted wiggle wagon driver

Wiggle wagons? I knew you had changed jobs but I never saw it posted what you were doing or where you were working. How bout an update please. My bad for missing that because I only scan the board ,specially when I see your name! (JUST KIDDING!):lol:

:bow::bow::bow:

[Snowman7]

Originally Posted by golfhobo

As a newly conscripted wiggle wagon driver, I am prone to believe that this is exactly what is behind their reasoning. Not only because the inherent delay in the airline is magnified by the numerous connections, but also because the articulation at the dolly constitutes a different dynamic than that of a 53 footer.

IOW.... you don't want to ADD to the "crack the whip" action by intermittently, and unevenly, stabbing brakes on wheels that are tracking on different paths.

Let the flaming begin. :lol2:

I was a private school about 5 years ago and they were teaching stab braking. They even said slight pressure all the way down is outdated. I pull doubles and I dont have a jake. I have used both methods effectively but I would say if you are heavy, no jake, and a very steep grade I would prefer a lower gear and slight pressure. As for doubles getting "out of line" while braking I dont see that as an issue either way. They stay pretty straight on dry pavement. If it is slick you have to watch that back trailer. It will be the lighter one and the brakes will be the first to lock up causing that rear pup to start coming around. You will not be able to feel it so you have to be looking. Otherwise you could clip the vehicle next you or a pole etc. There's a lot of factors that affect how they track and how they brake. Wind, weight, where the weight is on the trailer, are the brakes adjusted evenly, etc. Crack the whip as you say isnt a problem unless you swerve badly to one side or the other. But, if you let the right front tire drift off the lip of the road, to the shoulder, at highway speeds.....good luck! I did this on a small lip and coming back is a motherf*****. Thats big time crack the whip! I took my eyes off the road in an area of fresh asphalt and they had not yet blended it with the shoulder. The dropoff was maybe 2-3 inches, and I tell ya it was scary. If its a larger dropoff to the shoulder I would say you are done, stick a fork in ya. You may as well stradle it if you can until you slow down and then either get all the way off the road or try to get back on at that point. You also have to watch tight turns on uneven pave at slow speeds. When that dolly gets 90 degrees to the rear trailer there is no lateral support to the nose of the trailer and you could flip it. For example turning onto the street from a parking lot with a slight dropoff. You could also flip the rear box if you are braking hard during a tight turn. Try to gear down before your turn so you can slightly accelerate thru the turn and pull the rear one thru. Flipping the rear box is rare, I'm not trying to scare you. What does happen more than you may think is losing the rear box. I've seen a few dropped trailers. Double check your king pins. I get under the trailer with a flashlight. And dont forget to close your pintle hook, this a common mistake. There is alot of lines, chains, and connections and its easy to forget something. Develop your own pattern, and stay focused until your done. Dont get distracted and if you do always double check because thats when you'll miss a step.

[Brown67]

Good info thanks.