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  #41  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by golfhobo
Well, I ain't no engineer, and I'm not in favor of this remedy, but....

If I'm not mistaken, it is not VOLUME of air that holds back the spring brakes, nor VOLUME of air that applies the service brakes. It is air PRESSURE.

And, unless I'm mistaken, the pressure of air OR a liquid, is increased by narrowing the diameter of the "line" it is forced through. I know when the water line to my house was replaced with one of larger diameter, my water pressure dropped.

The air compressors of trucks produces MORE pressure than the lines will hold and therefore the excess is released by the overflow valve. Using a smaller bore within the line "should" only INCREASE the pressure of the air, holding back the spring brakes just fine, and applying the service brakes just fine. The increased "excess" will just be expressed more often by the release valve on the generator tank.

Of course, I COULD be wrong.... cuz I ain't no enguneer! I'm just a truck driver.

Now.... IF I was to employ Windy's procedure.... I wouldn't tape the ends of the pen cylinder with duct tape (which is porous and will pass air) to fit the inside diameter of the hose on either end. I would slit the ends of the hoses, and overlap them (if necessary, or cut a "V") and just clamp them down real tight to the outside diameter/surface of the pen!

Snip, snip (to remove the damaged part of the hose,) slit, slit (the ends of the hose, insert the pen shunt, and clamp it down tight on both ends. DONE in less than ten minutes! Back on the road, and heading for line 5 time while the shop repairs it to specs! :thumbsup:

But, what do I know? :smokin:
Actually a reduction in ID will DECREASE the pressure, at least in the prtion of the passage that is restricted. It's how the venturi in a carburetor works, it's what makes airplanes fly. Google Bernoulli's Principle.

But you did ask a really good question- What do you know? LOL!

I think if you can brakes to release at all through a Bic pen, it will take a long time (because of the restriction) and it would take so long to get any serious application of service brakes that it would be unsafe.

And if, God forbid, you were in any sort of accident while underway with this "fix" a lawyer would have a field day with it.
 
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Last edited by LightsChromeHorsepower; 01-18-2009 at 10:30 AM. Reason: y not
  #42  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LightsChromeHorsepower
And if, God forbid, you were in any sort of accident while underway with this "fix" a lawyer would have a field day with it.
Are you suggesting that it would be any different with any other non-DOT compliant repair?
 
  #43  
Old 01-18-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by golfhobo
You're kidding, right? Who carries shrink wrap in their toolbox? It must have taken you longer to patch that, than it did to get off the road!

NOTHING works better to cover/patch a hole than a piece of rubber bungee cord! Cut it to size, and put a hose clamp around it. If it's a small hole, a single clamp will do. If it's a gash, maybe two or three. 10 minute repar, tops! No cutting airlines. No bic pens. No "fittings." A simple rubber bandaid will work everytime!

Duct tape, gorilla tape, plastic nor chewing gum will resist the air pressure the way a piece of rubber clamped down will.

And rubber bungee cords are more frequent in T/S parking lots than lizards are! :lol2:
i carried shrink wrap because i had pickups where i was required to wrap my own pallets. the trailer i fixed was dropped at a customer (and loaded) not in a lot strewn about with trash, so it was up to me to get it home. i used what i had and it worked. :moon:

the idea isn't that there's only one way to fix something, but to use your noggin' and make do with what you have. :thumbsup:
 
  #44  
Old 01-18-2009, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by golfhobo
You're kidding, right? Who carries shrink wrap in their toolbox? It must have taken you longer to patch that, than it did to get off the road!

NOTHING works better to cover/patch a hole than a piece of rubber bungee cord! Cut it to size, and put a hose clamp around it. If it's a small hole, a single clamp will do. If it's a gash, maybe two or three. 10 minute repar, tops! No cutting airlines. No bic pens. No "fittings." A simple rubber bandaid will work everytime!

Duct tape, gorilla tape, plastic nor chewing gum will resist the air pressure the way a piece of rubber clamped down will.

And rubber bungee cords are more frequent in T/S parking lots than lizards are! :lol2:
Actually...In a by-gone time, when I was in business with the family (:tears::tears, we kept a roll of shrink-wrap in the side boxes of all four trailers we had. Worked great for securing odd stuff on pallets, and saved ton's of time having it in the box.

You would be surprised how well a little shrink-wrap helps firm up a pallet of concrete blocks.
 
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  #45  
Old 01-18-2009, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by vavega
i carried shrink wrap because i had pickups where i was required to wrap my own pallets. the trailer i fixed was dropped at a customer (and loaded) not in a lot strewn about with trash, so it was up to me to get it home. i used what i had and it worked. :moon:

the idea isn't that there's only one way to fix something, but to use your noggin' and make do with what you have. :thumbsup:
I agree about using your noggin. I'm sorry you worked for a company that made you do "dock work." MY point was, pick up discarded rubber bungies in T/S parking lots when you find them, so you will HAVE them when you NEED them.

The worst feeling I know is to be somewhere without help when you NEED help, and realize that using your noggin earlier would have prevented your dilemma.

I actually patched a hole in a Hub axle cover one time with chewing gum. It IS a solid, pliable substance. I wrapped gorilla tape around it, and it held fine. But, there was no pressure involved.

MY point was to be "prepared" and not at the mercy of what kind of lot you are in. MOST of us don't carry shrinkwrap. But, anyone can find a section of discarded bungee cord in a parking lot of a truckstop. I say, pick it up and keep it. You NEVER know when it will be needed. But, of course, you should also carry a few hose clamps!

This is NOT a "pizzing contest" Vavega! You do what you want. If you want to look around you and find shrinkwrap and figure a way to make that airtight, that's fine by me. I'm simply telling you that there is a readily available resource, of consistent structure, that you can use. It MIGHT even work without the clamps. Just tape it on real tight. Don't know.... never tried.

Duct tape works miracles, but NOT against 120 PSI air pressure! Neither does Gorilla tape. I've tried it.... so, I know! I can't IMAGINE the technology needed to make a poruos substance liike shrinkwrap or duct tape become airtight. Someone said twist it, braid it, and wrap it around? Give me a break!

Just ONCE, say HOBO is right. A piece of rubber, clamped tight over the hole will solve your problems AND your dilemma. Do it, and get back on the road! It's worked for me more than once!

 
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  #46  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:03 PM
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we're two completely different drivers with different experiences. i was local and have only been in 3 truck stops in my life. i had to carry shrink wrap, you didn't. don't feel sorry for me, i didn't work at a company that made me do it, i could have sat there getting paid and waited for the shop to come out, but i wanted to do it, to get home. just like you would want to do it to get to a repair shop to keep those cpm coming in.

trash picking in a parking lot for bungee cords? :hellno: ohellno

i also fixed a wheel hub using a tampon and paper towels. what's the truck stop parking lot equivalent to that?

nah, can't say that simply because you want it so bad. maybe later. :moon:
 
  #47  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:33 PM
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Ummmm.... Hobo... Do you believe that a projectile fired from a weapon will have more velocity at 30 yards than at the muzzle????
Originally Posted by golfhobo
Well, I ain't no engineer, and I'm not in favor of this remedy, but....

If I'm not mistaken, it is not VOLUME of air that holds back the spring brakes, nor VOLUME of air that applies the service brakes. It is air PRESSURE.

And, unless I'm mistaken, the pressure of air OR a liquid, is increased by narrowing the diameter of the "line" it is forced through. I know when the water line to my house was replaced with one of larger diameter, my water pressure dropped.
The pressure dropped because while the lines in your house were replaced, the line coming into your house remained the same. Now, what happened to the volume of water available?

In the air brake system of a truck, the pressure and volume work together. You have a specific volume that must be brought up to a specific pressure in order to do the job.

And, for the rest of you... The barrel of a bic pen can be made to do the job, but you may have to cut the end off that the point goes through. It means you won't be using it for writing again. That gives you more volume of air available. No, DOT will not like it, but then, I'm not going to flag them down and point it out to them either. And, I'm going to get a proper fix on it at my earliest opportunity.

Originally Posted by golfhobo
The air compressors of trucks produces MORE pressure than the lines will hold and therefore the excess is released by the overflow valve. Using a smaller bore within the line "should" only INCREASE the pressure of the air, holding back the spring brakes just fine, and applying the service brakes just fine. The increased "excess" will just be expressed more often by the release valve on the generator tank.

Of course, I COULD be wrong.... cuz I ain't no enguneer! I'm just a truck driver.
Yup... You're wrong, and you're right that you "ain't no engineer".:lol:
That is, unless you're driving a truck that does not have an air govenor on the air pump. When the governor shuts off the air pump because it has reached the max air pressure, it also releases the air dryer, and the sneeze you hear is not excess air pressure, but a quick discharge of air from the dryer to clear out any moisture. When the governor senses enough air, it shuts off the compressor, the air dryer goes "CHOOW", and the compressor waits until you use enough air to have the governor kick it back in.

Originally Posted by golfhobo
Now.... IF I was to employ Windy's procedure.... I wouldn't tape the ends of the pen cylinder with duct tape (which is porous and will pass air) to fit the inside diameter of the hose on either end. I would slit the ends of the hoses, and overlap them (if necessary, or cut a "V") and just clamp them down real tight to the outside diameter/surface of the pen!

Snip, snip (to remove the damaged part of the hose,) slit, slit (the ends of the hose, insert the pen shunt, and clamp it down tight on both ends. DONE in less than ten minutes! Back on the road, and heading for line 5 time while the shop repairs it to specs! :thumbsup:

But, what do I know? :smokin:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :clap:
And just where do you put the clamps so that you do not lose air at the end of your slit, or at the bottom of your "V"???? I wouldn't use duct tape on the barrel of the pen. But I have successfully used black electrical tape, and placed the clamps so that they were on top of the tape. And, that was with the small hole of the barrel cut off.

Again, DOT won't like it, but I'm not sitting on the side of the road.
 
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  #48  
Old 01-19-2009, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Windwalker

And, for the rest of you... The barrel of a bic pen can be made to do the job, but you may have to cut the end off that the point goes through. It means you won't be using it for writing again. That gives you more volume of air available. No, DOT will not like it, but then, I'm not going to flag them down and point it out to them either. And, I'm going to get a proper fix on it at my earliest opportunity.
As I stated when I originally suggested the idea, the pen needs to be disassembled prior to using it, so you have only the pen shaft. The "tip" that the pen point comes out of is a separate piece (on most Bic pens, the shaft is white and the tip is black or blue), and must be removed prior to using it for this temporary fix. The idea behind it is to keep the air line from collapsing on itself by putting something rigid inside it before you clamp it with hose clamps.

 
  #49  
Old 01-19-2009, 06:21 AM
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vavega said:

we're two completely different drivers with different experiences. i was local and have only been in 3 truck stops in my life.
Oops, my mistake. I thought You were a truck driver.... not a local wuss! :lol2:

I had to carry shrink wrap, you didn't. don't feel sorry for me, i didn't work at a company that made me do it, i could have sat there getting paid and waited for the shop to come out, but i wanted to do it, to get home. just like you would want to do it to get to a repair shop to keep those cpm coming in.
Not ME!! Never cared about getting CPM. I always KNEW that I would get whatever miles it was to the drop somewhere on the west coast AND the return trip to the yard in NC. I could sit and wait for a repair truck just as easily as I could sit at a produce shed. :lol: The time that I fixed the leak, I was just trying to get HOME that night. I wasn't more than 100 miles away. Must be part of that "LOCAL" urge!

Trash picking in a parking lot for bungee cords? :hellno: ohellno
:rofl: I didn't mean "dumpster diving!" Just picking up what others leave on the ground.

I also fixed a wheel hub using a tampon and paper towels. what's the truck stop parking lot equivalent to that?
Um..... used Trojans scattered around the Rev's truck?? :rofl:

nah, can't say that simply because you want it so bad. maybe later. :moon:
"Later" I'll be wanting something ELSE real bad! But.... nevermind! :lol2:
 
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  #50  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:41 AM
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I'm surprised no-one suggested putting a screw in a hole in an airline..... Of course, then anyone who does that takes the risk of having the airline part completely and losing the trailer.....

I think if I was inclined to repair an airline...I would insert the proper brass nipple that is made to connect hoses and clamp the ****ens out of it.... here is the item I'm talking about, and they can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot and most hardware stores.....

Coilhose Pneumatics BS06-DL 3/8" Hose Splicer Barb

:thumbsup:
 
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