The topic for today is: Seals on trailers.

A seal on a trailer can be a strip of metal that locks at the ends, or a strip of plastic that locks on the ends, or it can be a cable seal, and also what is know as a "bolt seal".

Seals are inserted through the door handle locking pieces or through the special stainless steel door locking devices. All seals have numbers on them.

Never try to tear a metal seal off "bare-handed".... you may slice your hands up, and even leave fingers on the ground. Plastic seals are easier, but all the same can be rough on the hands. Bolt seals and cable seals require heavy duty cutters to remove them.

A driver may not remove a seal from a trailer without permission, as to do so is to incur the wrath of your employer, the shipper, and the receiver. Only under special circumstances may a driver remove the seal(s). Such as picking up a beer load that is sealed, but not fully secured and your special instructions are to remove the temporary seal and install load locks to prevent shifting of the cargo, and then put the enroute seal on.
A driver otherwise will normally be able to only remove the seal if the employer, the shipper and the receiver grant permission to do so in a case where the driver may believe that the freight has shifted and may need to be corrected.

Law enforcement officers "can remove a seal" from a trailer. The DOT can also remove seals. As well as other duly authorized agencies. This is extremely rare. I have only had this done one time since 1994. The state of Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (A law enforcement agency with full police powers) opened my trailer, inspected the load which originated in Laredo, TX, and when I asked the Inspector to sign my log book that he broke the seal, he did one better. He filled out a form in triplicate that he signed with his badge number, the new S of FL seal number, and I signed it. When arriving at my delivery, I informed the receiver of the transaction and there was no problem. Backing up here....you would also immediately notify your employer's Safety Department of the transaction/inspection. Also advise them of the new seal number(s).

One thing you never want to do is move a loaded trailer that is not sealed.
Always check with the shipper if they are going to use their seal or do you use one of your company's. If they say they do not use seals.....you put a company seal on the trailer, and document the seal number on the bill of lading. If the shipper has provided the seal or preloaded the trailer and put a seal on the loaded trailer...document that seal number on you BOL if it is not already there. If there is a seal number on the BOL...always make certain that the number on the seal agrees with the BOL. If it is different....do not move the trailer. Notify the shipper if they are open, or security if they are closed. Also notify your company as to the discrepancy, but do not move the trailer until the issue is resolved. It is possible that something as simple as the wrong seal was put on the trailer, which can cause havoc on the other end....or someone loaded the wrong trailer with the wrong stuff....and you are not getting the load you were supposed to. Even more havoc on the other end.

Under no circumstances hook to an unsealed trailer in a "drop and hook" situation....unless you are dropping a loaded trailer and picking up an mt.

Always, and without fail...record your seal numbers. In fact, though I don't have my FMCSR book in hand... I seem to remember that there is a requirement for the seal #'s to be written in the remarks section of your daily log.

When you deliver the trailer, be it a drop and hook, or a live unload, it is advisable to have the receiver sign your company receipt and the BOL's to indicate that the trailer was received with "Seal(s) intact".

Failure to insure that seal integrity is maintained....can lead to much havoc, trouble, time expenditure, gnashing of teeth, and loss of employment....and worse.

Make sure you know your employer's policies regarding seal integrity and cargo protection. Other than keeping the cargo safe....you are keeping your career safe as well.

The foregoing applies to Dry Vans, Reefers, Tankers - Bulk Liquid and Dry, but not to Flatbeds.....

 

Great post!


:rock:

 

Skateboarder's catch ALL the breaks!!! :lol:

 

You mean I did not have to put the seal on the flat bed loads I hauled? DARN!!!!!!


Good Post.......... Might want to add Have a Good Lock also.

 

The FMCSA regs state that a seal number CAN be used to identify a load. A trip number is also acceptable.


Rev.; only seals his trailer with big friggin padlocks - 5 of 'em.

 

While we haven't 'sealed' flatbed loads there have been items (granite machines for one) we've hauled bolted down to the flatbeds Of course chains and straps and all the other securements were done too.

Alot of times when we did pull vans we'd also use our own padlocks if there was a way to fit it in there.

 

Most of what I haul now is material going in for recycling, whether it's paper, cardboard, etc. so I rarely use a seal now. I have, though, picked up a load of shredded paper (1/4" pieces) and was given a bolt seal to put on the trailer.

Worst load was plastic bags going to a location for making composite decking. The bundles of bags was sitting outside in the rain. When I arrived to unload the trailer 4 days later and opened the door I wished I'd had a full body biohazard suit with a seperate oxygen supply. The smell of it almost knocked me out. The trailer smelled like rotten garbage for weeks afterwards (I kept begging for a D/H just to get rid of the damn thing).

They finally sent me for a washout when a shipper refused to load the trailer because of the smell - and that was a load of cardboard going to the recycler.

The only seal I can truly say I hate is the cable seals. They're almost impossible to get off. I had one that they couldn't cut, so the maintenance dept at the receiver had to bring out a cutting torch to burn it off. All for a load of roll paper.

 

Here is another use for that seal....

If your taking a couple of days off, and your dropping your empty trailer on the yard, go ahead and put a seal on it. Others will think the trailer is loaded, and leave it alone. (unless you get someone doing the same thing, then they might check for paperwork)

This is a good way to insure you have a empty waiting for you after your break.

 

Ahhh, that is "sage advice"!! I've used that trick a number of times.....except that I also used a high-security lock on the trailer as well.

The cable seals can be cut with a pair of "sheet metal shears" though nowadays I carry a good pair of high leverage combination needle nosed pliers with a set of good cutting jaws. Even though I'm pulling a tanker, we have couple of shippers that use cable seals on the ears of the product outlet valve cap. Before I got the cutters....it was a real pain getting the seals off...especially the top dome.... Kind of hard to check the tank for heel if you can't get the dome open..... 8)

 

I solved all those problems for all seals and if need be locks. I had a air cutoff saw with a 60' hose connected to the glad hand. I also used quick connects/disconnects so I could use the air for filling tires.

In the past I used a portable battery powered cutoff saw. It did the same thing but was slower.

kc0iv