Here is the version that I used to recite to my CDL examiner in Maine.
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As you approach the truck look for any broken fiberglass, mirrors, dangling parts, leaks, etc. Check all mirrors and glass for cracks and cleanliness.
Open the hood : Check all engine fluids, belts, hoses, wires, etc. Check the steering system for excessive play (10 degrees or less allowed) In order the parts are called, steering wheel, steering shaft, gear box, pitman arm, drag link, steering knuckle, and the tie rod connects the left to right. Spin the shaft and wiggle each front tire to check for excessive play.
Steer tires :Check the tire for any cuts, cracks, abrasions, tread depth (4/32"), etc. Check the tightness of the lug nuts. Inspect the rim for cracks or damage. Check both the inside and outside of the front tires (and all non driven tires) for leaking hub oil, and for hub oil level. Inspect the frame and suspension for cracks/damage/missing parts. Inspect the brake hose/line, canister, slack adjuster, s-cam, pads/shoes, drums for cracks or damage. With the parking brakes off and the wheels chocked pull outward on the slack adjuster, There should be less than two inches of "slack" (note: two inches is with 90 psi of brake application, you won't get that much slack pulling by hand)
Moving along the left side of the truck check fuel tank securement and fuel level (don't trust the gauges), Check the cab steps, climb in and turn on all lights, low beams, and left turn signal. Check lights on the way around the truck. Check battery box for damage, and make sure batteries are secured. Check the exhaust system for proper securement and leaks. Check the driveshaft and U-joints. Inspect trailer connections , including air hoses, glad hands, electrical pigtail, etc. Make sure that the fifth wheel jaws are secured around the kingpin properly, and the release lever is in the proper place.
Drive axles : Check tires for any cuts, cracks, abrasions, tread depth(2/32"), etc. Dual tires must not touch or rub together. Check the tightness of the lug nuts. Inspect the rim for cracks or damage. Inspect the suspension for cracks, damage, missing parts. Check the brake system same as before. Look for any leaking oil and any cracks on the "pumpkins" or differential housings.
Trailer : Check load securement. Make sure that landing gear is fully retracted (up) and the handle is properly stowed. Look for any twisted/bent/broken frame members or structural components. If the trailer tandems can slide check that everything is correct. Check tires for any cuts, cracks, abrasions, tread depth(2/32"), etc. Dual tires must not touch or rub together. Check the tightness of the lug nuts. Inspect the rim for cracks or damage. Inspect the suspension for cracks, damage, missing parts. Check the brake system same as before. Check both the inside and outside of the tires for leaking hub oil, and for hub oil level. Continuing around the trailer check lights and structural components including the ICC bumper that prevents cars from going under your trailer.
Check everything up the right side of the truck/trailer the same as the left side.
Switch headlights to high beams, activate right turn signal, and depress brake pedal (with a stick or bungee cord) to activate brake lights). Walk around again checking these lights and anything missed the first time.
In the cab check all controls for proper function. Check mirrors for proper angles and sightlines. Make sure that heater and A/C equipment functions to keep windows clear. Check windshield wipers for proper operation. Test the horn. Check gauges for proper readings.
Do the airbrake test : Start the truck and make sure that the air compressor governor cuts out at the proper pressure 125 psi (some older trucks may vary). Pump the brake pedal and make sure that the air compressor governor cuts in at 100 psi. Turn the engine off, turn the key back on. Make sure the wheels are chocked and both parking brake buttons are still pushed in, they should be from before) With the engine off and brakes off the air pressure should not drop by more than 3 psi in one minute. Press the brake pedal and after the initial drop the pressure should not drop by more than 4 psi in one minute. Pump the brake pedal several times and make sure that the alarm/buzzer/warning light comes on at 60 psi. Continue to pump the brake pedal and the parking brake buttons should pop out automatically at about 30-40 psi. Start the truck up and collect your chocks. (the parking brakes are supposed to be applied already) Get back in the cab to check that the low air alarm/buzzer goes off properly. Time the air pressure build-up between 85 and 100 psi, it should take less than 45 seconds. When air pressure has reached normal put the truck in reverse, release the tractor parking brakes but not the trailer parking brakes and push gently against the trailer parking brakes, (this is to make sure that the fifth wheel is properly latched) Shift to a forward gear and pull gently at the parking brakes again. Watch to see how much slack there is in the coupling between the tractor and trailer when you shift directions. Release the trailer parking brakes and apply the tractor parking brakes, pull gently against them. Release the parking brake and pull forward slowly, pull on the trolley/hand brake and see how the trailer stops. Start moving again at 5 mph and press the foot brake pedal firmly. Checking to see if the truck stops properly and doesn't pull to one side or the other. Make sure there are no unusual sounds and that the steering wheel and brake pedal "feel" right.
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Flatbed Fred has an illustrated version, look for his posts in the TMC thread.
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Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool.
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The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither then? I cannot say.
-- J R R Tolkien
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