Losing power from my inverter.

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Old 05-16-2008, 10:46 AM
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Default Losing power from my inverter.

My old truck could power my computer through a 300w inverter. But my new truck (2YO International) runs out of ass and the computer switches back and forth between battery and truck power. I have to shut down because the battery is original, 4 1/2 years old and doesn't last long.

Why is the newer truck not providing enough power for the computer? Is there any way around this? Hooking directly to the battery, maybe?

Help!
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:45 AM
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Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew10
Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.
I've tried every socket, which is why I think there's something wrong with the truck.

I'll look into the adapter, that is a cheap route and maybe will work better than screwing with the battery.

Thanks, Drew.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew10
Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.
I've tried every socket, which is why I think there's something wrong with the truck.

I'll look into the adapter, that is a cheap route and maybe will work better than screwing with the battery.

Thanks, Drew.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:10 PM
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It's also possible that one of the trucks batteries are weak. It's not dead, just weak enough to drop the actual voltage causing the inverter to shut down.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:13 PM
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Could also be a problem with the plug on the inverter, or some other problem with the inverter.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:39 PM
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Assuming the inverter is OK....Are the symptoms the same whether you are Idling the truck or not. If it does not have a problem while idling then you may have a bad battery.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:46 PM
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you're going to blow the LCD screen inverter out of your laptop- if you continue to have that kind of power surge-- alternating back and forth between battery & adapter-- due to high amp demand/ lack of current supplyed to your inverter---

first, go into the wall compartment behind the outlet plug-- and check the fuse( there's always an inline fuse to your cig plug-- this newer truck probably only has a 10amp blade fuse--- change that out to a 20-30amp blade fuse-- then try your inverter again.

if that don't work- go to the cables and run direct to battery or fuse box like this:





the power outlet plugs in these trucks are only 18gauge wire-- you're not going to get much more than 12x10= 120watts or if you change to a 20amp fuse- get 240watts TO your inverter---- you might wire up your own outlet socket to the batteries or fuse block-- and be sure to use larger
guage cables to your cig outlet--- like 10guage or 12guage wire, this will allow a better current flow to your inverter-- thus more POWER aval-- and your inverter won't set there and starve for power.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:55 PM
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Headborg... While you're right, you're also wrong.

His computer keeps switching between battery and truck power. He didn't say what kind of truck it is. He didn't say that he inverter is turning on and off (which it may be doing). The 120 watts to his computer should be quite enough. I had a problem with my 1000 watt and bought two little 150s to run the computer and printer with. Then, I found that I could run both the computer and printer from one 150 watt inverter. The other is still brand new in the package, never opened. But, I did have a problem with the outlet in that truck as well. The inverter "ON" light would go on and off. I found that by putting an old wooden pencil in a drill, I could use the eraser to polish up the contact at the bottom of the outlet. No more problems.

If all he's powering is the computer, and nothing else, the 10 amp fuse should do fine. However, in my truck, the fuse is 15 amp (and that is what it calls for), and that means I can draw 205 watts from the circuit. (13.7 volts X 15 amps = 205.5 watts) I also know that the printer uses more power than the computer. The power supply for my computer is only rated 2.2 amps at 12 volts. (26.4 watts) The amount of current is determined by the demand, not the supply. So, you could have a 5000 watt inverter, but for that application, it will still only supply 26.4 watts.

It sounds like he has a connection problem, either like I did because of oxidation inside the outlet, or a bad connection under the dash. The first truck this company gave me, someone spilled soda on the dash and it rand into the outlet. Really gums up the works. Have to admit that the dried soda did help to hold down the rattles and squeaks. But, you had to have an indicator light to know if you had power or not.

I've also had to change the outlet in this truck because the phone charger was being very temperamental. I found that the center (+) contact would not make a good connection, but the new outlet works fine.

So, if he needs 240 watts of power to keep that computer going, he's got a mighty, big, fancy computer with ALL the bells and whistles. But, if he's just got an ordinary computer, that current, and the current that the inverter both draw out of the circuit should be below 50 watts and the circuit and fuse he has should be MORE than enough.
 
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Old 05-16-2008, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Windwalker
Headborg... While you're right, you're also wrong.

His computer keeps switching between battery and truck power. He didn't say what kind of truck it is. He didn't say that he inverter is turning on and off (which it may be doing). The 120 watts to his computer should be quite enough. I had a problem with my 1000 watt and bought two little 150s to run the computer and printer with. Then, I found that I could run both the computer and printer from one 150 watt inverter. The other is still brand new in the package, never opened. But, I did have a problem with the outlet in that truck as well. The inverter "ON" light would go on and off. I found that by putting an old wooden pencil in a drill, I could use the eraser to polish up the contact at the bottom of the outlet. No more problems.

If all he's powering is the computer, and nothing else, the 10 amp fuse should do fine. However, in my truck, the fuse is 15 amp (and that is what it calls for), and that means I can draw 205 watts from the circuit. (13.7 volts X 15 amps = 205.5 watts) I also know that the printer uses more power than the computer. The power supply for my computer is only rated 2.2 amps at 12 volts. (26.4 watts) The amount of current is determined by the demand, not the supply. So, you could have a 5000 watt inverter, but for that application, it will still only supply 26.4 watts.

It sounds like he has a connection problem, either like I did because of oxidation inside the outlet, or a bad connection under the dash. The first truck this company gave me, someone spilled soda on the dash and it rand into the outlet. Really gums up the works. Have to admit that the dried soda did help to hold down the rattles and squeaks. But, you had to have an indicator light to know if you had power or not.

I've also had to change the outlet in this truck because the phone charger was being very temperamental. I found that the center (+) contact would not make a good connection, but the new outlet works fine.

So, if he needs 240 watts of power to keep that computer going, he's got a mighty, big, fancy computer with ALL the bells and whistles. But, if he's just got an ordinary computer, that current, and the current that the inverter both draw out of the circuit should be below 50 watts and the circuit and fuse he has should be MORE than enough.
Well, I've had the exact problem before-- on my laptop-- when trying to use the cig outlet- with a small inverter. I understand(I think) exactly the situation he's describing-- the light in his system tray keeps switching between laptop battery and AC adapter-- In which case, if the situation is as mine was-- his Inverter isn't shutting off/on-- just surging-- because it's
having trouble with supply/demand--

the 120 watts is the Input power TO the inverter-- not out from the inverter.

my AC adapter requires AC-- created/simulated by the inverter jacking up the 12Volts DC to 120volts then creating a modified sine wave- to simulate 110volts AC.

my AC adapter draws 100-240Volts AC 2amps- and outputs 19volts 6.3amps DC. so that's roughy 119.7 watts DC my laptop Needs!

so you see, if you only had a 10amp fuse (MAX before the fuse blows)--and you have a good Voltage regulator on your trucks alt( which-- (if you're reading 13.7volts at your outlets--right there you got a problem)
you should only be getting 12volts at your outlets---

12vX10= 120volts-- this is why mine was always right at edge
 

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