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Old 03-10-2007, 02:47 AM
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Default Advice on 1985 FLC Daycab Bouncy Ride???

I bought a 1985 FLC Spring Ride Daycab that I use to haul logs for a living. Here is my question: At certain speeds my Truck has a bounce in it, not a vibration but a bounce up and down kinda like riding a horse. It does this at 45 to 50, and 65 to 70. It does not matter if it is going up 45 to 50 or coming down 50 to 45 etc., it will still do this.

I even had a mechanic drive it to see if he could figure out what was causing this, and he didn't have a clue.

I had new steer and drive tires put on in hopes of this curing this, but no help. Even had the Truck jacked up on blocks and ran it to see how the tires were running, and nothing.

One other thing that it does, it only does this if I am either bobtailing, or unloaded??

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as this is really getting on my nerves.
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Old 03-10-2007, 03:32 PM
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Have you checked your shocks?
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Old 03-11-2007, 01:52 AM
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Called a harmonic vibration in the suspension. Your truck is spring ride correct. The spring equalizers in between the rear springs may be worn out and might need to be replaced. Also have your front spring shackles checked out for wear those do wear out and need replacing. The other thing it could be maybe is a worn tracking bar or link to keep the rear ends in alignment. The reason why it only does it empty or bobtail is fully loaded the tires act like a shock absorber and absorb the impact. I drove a 73 International cabover that was the same way unless I was heavy. Empty that thing bucked like a bronco heavy road OK.
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Old 03-11-2007, 04:30 AM
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Bad shocks is a good place to start looking. Also, the springs could be shot, especially if they are original. Also check the rear cab mounts yo nmake sure they are tight.
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Old 03-11-2007, 04:30 AM
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Should a good 3 Axle Alignment Truck Shop be able to find the cause?
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:09 AM
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I would think so. They usually check everything before they do the alignment.
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Old 03-11-2007, 02:51 PM
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All the above tips are good but you may have to live with it. A friend of mine has a 94 Pete 378 that has done that since new. The closest thing to an answer they got from Pete was that sometimes the frame will get into a harmonic bounce when empty. Older Int's actually had a deeper belly on ther frame under the cab /sleeper and some guys say that was to damp out the harmonics. On the Pete they also suggested he might have to change the frame rails. As his truck was out of warranty he decided he could live with it.
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Old 03-12-2007, 12:31 AM
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I really appreciate the suggestions everyone has given. I am taking it to the shop tomorrow to get the 5th Wheel rebuilt, and will have them check all of the above mentioned items. This is such a great site to get help from.

The reason that I believe something is wrong is due to the fact that this bouncing up and down has gotten worse as time has went on. It was there when I bought the Truck in Oct of 06, but has gotten steadily worse.

Question: I had a Mechanic check my front shocks (Back is Spring Ride), and watched as he unbolted the top of the shock and then pulled it all the way out. It stayed out (Extended), and I commented that the shock was bad, but he told me that no if the shock went right back in then it would be bad.

He reason was that a bad shock will not stay extended out, but would just collapse back in. Anyone know about this.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:01 AM
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Ain't that easy to test a shock - easiest thing is to replace them every couple years, The machine to test them isn't that common. You can feel them for temperature after a run to make sure they are all equally warm to hot but if they all wear equally might be hard to tell when they are gettin' weak? Also your driveshaft might be gettin' out of balance? I'd think a log truck would be hard on the driveshaft and a hard start in deep reduction might twist it just enough to go out-of-balance and each new "incident" would find it easier to tweak it worse?
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:50 AM
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You can heat test the shocks with a laser thermometer. Come in off the road and shoot each shock with the temp gun. The colder ones are not doing as much work, which means they are no good.

Roadranger is right, this procedure won't tell you the true condition of the shocks, just if you have any that are worse than the others. The hotter the shock, the more work it is doing.
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