Whaddya figure....98% of headache racks out there are like that?

I don't think I'll ever own another one. They'll all be bolt through frame style. Problem is, what if the fuel tanks are right in the way?

it moved around on you that bad did it? This one doesn't seem too bad so far. I've tightened two of the U bolts since I put it on....~ 5000 miles ago I guess. I kinda thought it would get better once I made a deck plate for it.

It has been a pain. Moving around, plus the aluminum bends. I notice on newer ones they have the bottom aluminum reinforced. I also put oak in the frame rails so the frame doesn't bend, this really helped.

Put some rubber, like a mudflap, under the feet of the rack, where it sits on the frame, cut them in 3" wide strips THEN tighten it, wont move then.

GOt this pic from the interet, check out where the air lines are

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...DR62/015-4.jpg

http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/17...600x600Q85.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...Drags088-1.jpg

Rank, you’re right about stainless hardware… it’s all I’ll use in an external application. The pictures give a much better understanding of just how close you were able to mount your rack to the cab of your truck. It looks like you’re only a couple inches further than what I ended up with. I just have less pipe and maybe less work with the solution I settled on. After getting the thing actually bolted down today, it looks like my best solution for air and electrical routing is to mount one of the chrome rails I pulled off the back of the tractor either to the bottom of the cabinet or just under it and bolt it to the legs. I’m leaning toward bolting to the legs so I can keep the cabinet hole-free.

I left a bracket that my Davco fuel filter was bolted to on the side of the rail and I’m going to run a couple bolts through that and through the right side foot of the rack. Then on the left side there’s a ½” bolt running across the top of the rail that is part of the mount for my apu. I’m welding 5/8” plates to the bottom of the feet and splitting the plate on the left side so that it creates a channel for the apu bolt that will also serve to keep the left side from sliding any. I did notice that the top of the aluminum I-beams pulled in a tiny bit after I torqued the u-bolts down, but it was only a small bit.

That really is interesting. It might make for a fun spring project next year. I’ll have to consult Reitnouer though because the dealer said that cutting into the electrical harness at all would void my warranty and I’d hate to do that. Also, I wonder what the likelihood is that a piece of road debris (errant tire tread or even roadkill) could kick up and take out the lines. That would ruin your whole day.

For the electric line you could make one that plugs into the front and then goes underneath, as far as something hitting it, there is always the chance, then again, just DRIVING in general has become a take a chance sort of thing these days....