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I think the loose steering has something to do with your truck itself, not the make or model.
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Could be your power steering gear box.
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Originally Posted by RostyC
(Post 456523)
Could be your power steering gear box.
I think it's the International trucks' design that's to blame. That's why I'm kind of leaning towards a Freightliner with a rack and pinion steering as my next truck. Or maybe it's the short wheelbase on my International 9400? I only got 230" between the axles ... Does the wheelbase affect the steering at all? |
The reason Volvo's have "tight" steering is because of the short wheelbase, making it feel very tight and quick to respond. It all depends on how the truck is taken care of. I find my Volvo handles very well. Not perfect, but very good. I find they are very sensitive to a toe out situation. Causes extremely poor handling, probably worse then most trucks because they tend to lean side to side more then most trucks.
The only international I drove had a much tighter steering situation then my Volvo. It could be a number of things, worn drag linkage, worn out spring bushings, worn kingpins, worn tie rod ends. Any competent mechanic should be able to nail it down to one of those. I find worn out rear torque arms really amplifies poor handling as well. Can you describe how it handles tracer? Do you constantly have to "see saw" back and forth with the steering wheel? Can it go down a flat straight highway with just one finger on the wheel? (it should!) One way is to get a helper, and while you're parked and engine running wiggle the steering wheel back and forth. It should be very easy to find where the slop is. |
2 reasons my next truck wont be a Freightliner
1. I dont like Freightliners
2. I hate Freightliners. :love: |
Originally Posted by allan5oh
(Post 456572)
Can you describe how it handles tracer? Do you constantly have to "see saw" back and forth with the steering wheel? Can it go down a flat straight highway with just one finger on the wheel? (it should!)
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Originally Posted by allan5oh
(Post 456361)
There's something very fishy there. Your clutch linkage should never need to be adjusted after the initial adjustment. This includes hydraulic and old school clutch linkages.
Your problem is related to where the slave cylinder attaches. Probably the cross shaft is worn. Mine is worn as well. Does your clutch pedal also feel like it is binding? You do NOT have to replace the clutch, I can guarantee that, and your linkage is fine. But your tranny does have to be removed. The problem is probably related to a lack of greasing. There is another way to remedy the situation. You can PM me if you want to find out how. |
Did that, didn't help much. The problem was the cross shaft was worn, and wouldn't move things as far as it should.
There are ways to uh... "shim things up" so to speak. |
Internationals are garbage.... i bought 2 of them, both 05's with CATS, they got horrible mpg (my flat-top FLD did better pulling the same dry van) lots of electrical problems and rattles galore!!!! I got them for dirt cheap at auction w/under 400K miles so I'm not complaining, just saying...... btw both are for sale LOL
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Originally Posted by tracer
(Post 456597)
If the road is perfectly flat (no arch), I really can steer with one finger. But when there's a wind, or the road has an arch, it's a constant back and forth movement with the steering wheel, even with the low profile tires that dramatically improved handling.
Get a tape measure and friend. Measure from the outside of the middle rib to the outside of the middle rib on both tires, front and back. You have to be consistent. Put the end of the tape measure in the same spot both times. You should have 1/32 to 3/32 less on the front then the rear. It makes a huge difference. |
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