You can put any type of edge protector on the corners and help with the tarps being torn.Nothing else put gray duct tape on the corners.When I drove for Maverick we carried canvas tarps to put over the steel and then the vinyl tarps.

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You may also want to look at Cargo Securement on the FMCSA website and/or get a load securement manual fron JJ Keller.

Good luck,

Max

Regarding the steel bar load:

I dislike using chains only on bar like that as I feel that steel on steel doesn't give any grip to prevent it from sliding forward. I use many choke straps for that. The steel mill usually wants 4x4 dunnage placed on the trailer. I also roll out some straps flat on the deck. After the steel is loaded I throw both ends of the strap to the other side of the trailer. When completed this means that with the hook end is attached to one rub rail and the strap passes over the top of the load, back underneath the load, and then is hooked to the winch on the far side. If the steel starts to slide forward that action tightens the straps, and when you tighten the straps the bundles of bar are pressed together, combined with other straps or chains holding them down to the deck you get the most forward securement you can get without a bulkhead.

I wouldn't put too much stock in a simple steel bulkhead at the front of the trailer. If that 45,000 pounds of steel bar gets a 4 foot sliding start at this 200 pound steel plate, which do you think will win? Not that the back of your sleeper will be much better. Like Terry Lamar pointed out: A wooden 4x4 bulkhead stacked against the bar to prevent it from starting to slide is the appropriate choice. Of course this week hauling steel bar from Auburn NY back to Maine I only had ONE 4x4 left after using the others for dunnage, so that didn't work out so well.

TMC cuts up the old unrepairable tarps to give to us as padding tarps in sections usually about 8' by 8'. We use these to pad the ends of the bar, and in my case I use only the padding tarps for the ends and start my good tarps on the top to prevent damage.

With that steel bar the frequent load checks are necessary to actually do, not just touch the straps but test them with your bar. I stop a couple of times in the first 25 miles and can usually get another notch on several straps.


Now for x-straps on the lumber: This is really simple and is the only way to prevent forward movement. You can not prevent forward movement with straps holding a load DOWN. Take one of those two inch straps and hook itnear the front of the load. Bring the strap under the load to the front, then throw it up and over the top of the load towards the other side so it makes a slash mark accross the front of the load. Attach it at a natural angle, probably about 6 feet back from the front of the load depending on the height and width of the load. This way your strap is holding the load back, not just down. Repeat in the other direction to make an X accross the front of the load. This works with everything from Lumber to Shingles to Drywall. You may also use 4 inch straps if you have enough, but it takes more planning to leave a winch available in just the right spot. If I am short of straps I will always use at least ONE for forward securement, even if it means leaving something less desirably secured down. For examply with that plywood I might only use two straps over the top and use one to prevent forward movement instead.

Good luck with it, and if you see a TMC driver in Maine don't hesitate to ask us for clarification of this, It will likely either be Me, VonSeggern, or Dave from Manchester NH, and we are all pretty nice folks.