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-   -   Radtiator replacement cost (https://www.classadrivers.com/forum/truck-maintenance/30394-radtiator-replacement-cost.html)

10-26-2007 08:32 AM

Radtiator replacement cost
 
I may be in for a radiator replacement. Mine just started leaking today. Has anyone had one replaced with a new one by a dealer and if so, what was the total cost?

Maniac 10-26-2007 12:31 PM

Radiator is around $1200.00 over the counter, figure 8 hours labor, maybe a little less.

Around 2 grand for the whole deal, give or take.

Make sure they put in a genuine, not a Chinese junk

10-26-2007 04:27 PM

OK, thanks. It looks like a big job. Even the hood has to come off.

Part Time Dweller 10-26-2007 11:25 PM


Originally Posted by SteveBooth
OK, thanks. It looks like a big job. Even the hood has to come off.

Not if the shop has an overhead crane or a- frame with a chain hoist. The radiator can be plucked out from the top. This saves a lot of work.

heavyhaulerss 10-27-2007 01:58 PM

have the air cooler checked while rad is out .

Bigmon 10-27-2007 02:54 PM

Sounds like a job for the Pep Boys. :lol:

10-27-2007 04:06 PM

I'll probably have the mechanic do it where I park my truck. It's not a difficult job, just a pain in the azz. Lots and lots of stuff to take off before it comes out. I would think you need an overhead crane just to lift the hood off?

Part Time Dweller 10-27-2007 04:45 PM

I don't know what kind of truck you have, but usually they can take the stop cables off the hood and tilt it over on a drum so it is out of the way. That way the radiator can be pulled straight up without having to completely remove the hood.

Maniac 10-27-2007 05:09 PM

I didn't have to take the hood off of my KW, just disconnected the cables and let it go all the way over, I lifted the radiator with a car engine cherry picker, it only took 2 of us to pick the radiator up and put it in my pickup.

Unless the hinges are on the radiator the hood doesn't need to come off.

And checking the charge air cooler is a good idea also.

I had it out in 1 hour or so with air tools, disconnect the A/C condensor from the radiator and let it sit in side the hood so you don't have to recharge the A/C, 2 hoses, upper and lower , and 2 bolts underneath and the 2 supports on the side is all that holds it in, disconnect the charge air cooler hoses.

Once its out you can take off the charge air cooler

10-27-2007 05:36 PM

Want a part time job?

Thanks for the info everyone!

Maniac 10-28-2007 02:23 AM


Want a part time job?


I have one driving this.........http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ckandme025.jpg

bob h 10-28-2007 04:06 AM

i don't think you'll ever find hinges on a radiator

2 - 5 hrs sounds logical... i'd certainly question 8 ?!? ... unless it's a cabover

also... i've never encountered a rad r&r that requires hood removal... the only reason the hood is tilted forward is due to the fact that the cables are usually attached to the radiator frame

11-02-2007 02:44 AM

Steve all the times I changed Radiators I never pulled the hood either. Just removed the hood springs and then cheery picked the old one out after removing the bolts then bolted the new one in. Normally 5 hours and that included a pressure test after being done and a full check of the air to air cooler. If there is any leakage in that or it is plugged up with bugs or other debris good time to replace it also. It bolts right to the front of the radiator anyway.

11-02-2007 10:54 PM

Ok, thanks. For some reason the leak stopped about 5 days ago. Not sure what's going on but I'm guessing something plugged the hole for now. I'm sure it will let go big time when it's like 10 below zero during a blizzard!!!

I'll keep an eye on it and if I do replace it I'll come back and post what was involved.

Blind Driver 11-03-2007 01:42 PM

Have the system pressure tested befoe you do anything.

Might be able to fix it without removal.

bob h 11-06-2007 11:01 AM

[quote="SteveBooth"]Ok, thanks. For some reason the leak stopped about 5 days ago. Not sure what's going on but I'm guessing something plugged the hole for now. I'm sure it will let go big time when it's like 10 below zero during a blizzard!!!


yep .... murphy's law

bob h 11-06-2007 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Blind Driver
Have the system pressure tested befoe you do anything.

Might be able to fix it without removal.


how so ??

Kurbski 11-09-2007 11:23 PM

Steve,

Sounds like a good reason to park the truck for Turkeyday and get it fixed right after you deliver your onions and get home. Just wondering, did you see corrosion or seeping around fittings? Im sure a pressurized leak wouldn't just fix itself for very long would it? Just curious....

11-10-2007 08:30 AM


Originally Posted by Kurbski
Steve,

Sounds like a good reason to park the truck for Turkeyday and get it fixed right after you deliver your onions and get home. Just wondering, did you see corrosion or seeping around fittings? Im sure a pressurized leak wouldn't just fix itself for very long would it? Just curious....

I'm not sure where the leak is coming from but I'm almost guessing I over filled the holding tank. I couldn't see anything in the little glass bubble so I put almost 2 gallons of antifreeze in. I kind of filled it up almost to the top and realized the glass thing doesn't really do anything. I expected it to turn green.

cutout 11-10-2007 12:23 PM

best place to check the status is in the front lower corners of your radiator and see if you can touch your fins without any crumbling of the fins. if you had a leak and without any work, it stopped!! you need to find out what's going on because as stated" it will leave you walking". i'm a "shade tree" and changed mine in 8 hours including building an A-frame to chain hoist the tank out. guys explain how you used a "regular" cherry picker for this, i could use this in other applications. thanks for all the knowledge on this site!!!

11-11-2007 07:00 AM

Thanks cutout, it goes into the shop when I get home. I do have to stress to the mechanics that I'm out for 3 to 5 weeks at a time and will easily put on 10,000 miles before they see me again. I'm the only OTR truck they work on, everyone else is local and can deal with a breakdown. That's why they replaced all my belts the last time and a bunch of hoses.

cutout 11-11-2007 12:49 PM

the salt and road grime really breaks down the copper tubes and fins. the fins will get very brittle and will crumble. the first place it starts is in the lower corners. if you get chances, hose it down with fresh water. steve, i appreciate your posts. i'm learning a bunch off these boards.


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