Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull
Just bought me a Volvo. 530 ISX Cummins, 3:90, Super 40's. Nice truck. When I test drove it a couple of times, the clutch seemed really high, like at the end of it's adjustment. I asked the salesman to have it adjusted and the clutch checked before I bought it. He did and then informed me that it was an air over hydraulic clutch and the clutch had lots of life left. Seemed weird but whatever. It was working fine until today. First I was loading grain (super-b)in a farmer's field and went to pull ahead while loading. Released the clutch and nothing. I pushed in the clutch again, checked that I was in gear then released the clutch and away I went. I should note I was nearly loaded and in soft ground, but I got out no problem. Later today I was FULLY loaded and then some, likely a good 10-12000lbs overweight and I went to pull ahead on a solid driveway. I released the clutch and nothing, no grunt or squeal. Nothing. So eventually I decided to split the trailers. I pulled out with the lead no problem. Drove it home then came back for the pup. (That doesn't seem like the most efficient way to pull super-b's!) My question is are these clutches self regulating or something? Can it sense too much torque? Can I adjust the clutch? HELP?
The clutch is completely out of adjustment.
Just because it is hydraulically actuated doesn't change the fact that the pressure plate needs to be kept adjusted to compensate for clutch wear.
Don't keep trying to use it that way or the clutch discs, pressure plate, flywheel and center plate will be ruined due to excessive heat caused by slippage.
Hopefully there is still some adjustment left, and the clutch is not already at the end of it's lifespan.
Remember - these clutches must be adjusted at the pressure plate
NOT at the external linkage.
Edit to add:
I dug up an old post where I explained the clutch adjusting procedure, should you decide to DIY:
http://www.classadrivers.com/forum/t...tml#post217175
Quote:
URGENT ATTENTION REQUIRED HERE!!!! IMMINENT CLUTCH DESTRUCTION LIKELY IF NOT ADJUSTED ASAP!!!
Clutch adjustment is not a big deal.
If you decide to adjust it yourself, just be sure to do the adjustment INTERNALLY at the adjuster on the pressure plate.
Never adjust the external linkage to compensate for normal clutch wear.
To adjust:
Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing.
look up in there to see what position the adjuster is at, then turn the crankshaft til the adjuster is at the bottom near the inspection hole.
(I use a socket & breaker bar on the retaining bolt on the harmonic balancer on the front of the crankshaft to rotate it)
Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal to the floor & hold it down.
(The adjuster will not turn unless the clutch is disengaged)
Put a 5/8 box end wrench on the adjuster hex head & push in the locking collar.
Pull the wrench toward the drivers side to increase free travel (actually turning the adjuster clockwise)
Adjust it about a 1/4 turn then check free travel, adjust this way til you have 1 1/2 to 2 inches of free travel.
Be sure the locking collar has popped back out to lock the adjuster, (you may have to rotate the adjuster a little one way or the other til it locks)
Thats it!
WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE GREASE THE THROWOUT BEARING!
Some have a fitting on the bottom of the throwout bearing, others have a hose from the bearing attached to a grease fitting in the inpection cover, whichever kind it has, put in about 10 pumps of a good quality #2 grease, it's very important to keep the throwout bearing lubricated.
Now replace the inspection cover & you're good to go.
Never let a clutch adjustment "run tight" (no free travel), or the clutch will soon start to slip and self destruct.
