You obviously never replaced a floor by yourself.

Get tongue and groove or ship lap or you'll have more gaps in your floor.
Oak will add weight but you can off set some of it by throwing away your hammer and nails, after the oak dries completely you won't be able to drive a nail in it.

Doing your own floor in oak is kind of like building your own APU, it may work but you can do better. Your making the big bucks so pony up and take it to a trailer shop and get it done in one day, or do it yourself and take 2 or 3 days plus a few days to get over the sore knees, sore back, splinters and blisters, but what do I know, just keep your camera handy so if the friction from the drill starts a fire we can all enjoy.

Chicks dig fire. Building things is fun. :D

I agree with Heavy, the oak will get extremely hard. What's the price difference between oak and apitong?

Has anyone had a trailer redone with apitong and how much did it cost?

Not sure what I will use but will make the decision at the lumber mill but I can assure you it won't be apitong. I see no need to spend the money and that is NOT what is on my trailer now and it's in prefect condition.

I'm not doing the floor in my house Heavy!!! Tongue and groove?!?!? Are you on drugs? I'm replacing 4 separate pieces of wood not even close to one another!

You guys are making much to much to do about nothing. It's either going to cost me $100 bucks or I'll have to make chili and corn bread for the guys. We burn oak, birch, pine, maple and all sorts of other wood just because it gets in our way.

I burn oak, birch, maple, and all sorts of other wood just because I park my truck near it. :lol:

I thought your whole deck was wood my mistake. I'll do it for chili and cornbread too. just has to be whole grain cornbread. :D

:shock: :shock: :shock:

That's very flattering Steve..... But I am happily married.



:lol: :lol: :lol:

I just got back from the mill with a sample and it's birch. It's 5/4 rough so it's a no brainer and I have to make chili for the crew. It's a friend of mine that owns the mill. Maybe next time I come home. It's very busy there right now

My deck is all aluminum except for the 4 nailers that are spread apart with like 1 1/2 feet between them. Next to them are those rails with the big ass gap that I want to fill in with wider boards since I don't use them and never had a reason to use them.

Just got back from Bed Bath and Beyond and broke down and bought goose down comforter and goose down blankets for the bed. Big bucks for that crap.

Sorry Diesel, I thought you refer guys swung both ways. No wonder you didn't show up to help me with my bumper!!! Bumper, get it. lol

Steve for once you need to take a step back and admit you don't know everything. You need to listen to us more experienced truckers on this one.

First you will need to get a DOT certified engineering study completed on the feasibility of board replacement. You will need to perform pressure testing on every piece of lumber and sheer testing on the hardware you intend to use. Incidentally I am a DOT certified engineer and normally charge $17000 for regular board replacement engineering work but for you I will work for half that.

I can also steer you in the direction of a DOT certified board replacement carpenter. He even keeps up to date on all his tool qualification files should you get an audit by the US Marshall's. I believe you know him he goes by the name RostyC on here.

Please, for the safety of the motoring public, use a professional.

Yes dear, I'm sorry. Your right as usual.