Can you flatbed without tarping?
Call me weird - I don't like tarping. If you choose only the loads that don't require tarping, would it be possible to stay afloat? Or does "flatbed" automatically means "be ready to get dirty with a 130 lb tarp"? Can you specialize in loads that don't need tarping? I know Gman loves his sidekit... Any comments would be greatly appreciated... Currently pulling dry van and planning the next move...
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You can pretty much forget about hauling steel. Especially in the winter.
I don't like tarping either but I like it when it pays well....say $150 for zero miles. I always quote the rate without mentioning tarps. Then when the broker say it needs a tarp, I say that will be $150 extra. Lots of times (magically) it doesn't need tarps anymore. They just tell you to tarp because it doesn't cost them anything. Would you spend an hour tarping for $150? |
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If you pull a flat bed you will likely tarp at least 50+% of your loads. Unless you are willing to tarp, I would stay away from a step deck or flat bed. Most people don't care for tarping, but it is some exercise. We don't get much exercise when we drive a truck. After you gain some experience, it won't be too bad. I have known some flat bed drivers who actually enjoy tarping. Unless you are willing to tarp, you will lose some good paying loads and do a lot of sitting.
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Tarping
These guys are right. If you want to stay moving expect to tarp at least 50% of the time.I hate it too, but after awhile you gain the experience to do it kinda' quickly and right. I guarantee you'll learn something everytime you tarp. About the only thing I shy away from is open machinery (ok guys, let cyber spanking begin), this stuff will almost always give you fits.
Just get ready for "I don't know why they make you tarp this stuff", or you untarp and they set the freight in the mud. Go figure. :shock: |
Re: Tarping
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Re: Tarping
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I always tell a shipper or broker that it will cost them extra for tarping. When you add services, you need to expect to pay more. I find it interesting when I tell them about the extra tarp charge that it can sometimes suddenly NOT really need to be tarped. :roll: On the other hand, there are legitimate reasons why some loads need to be tarped. I have known owner operators who refuse to take any load that needs to be tarped. If you don't want to deal with the tarping, then I suggest you check into pulling vans or buy a flat with a curtain-side, Conestoga or similar tarping system. Those will add about $17,000 to the price of your trailer. You can haul almost anything with a Conestoga. You may also want to check into side kits. They run from about $1,800-3,600. The lightweight kits are more expensive than the plywood kits. You will usually need to break down part of one side to load and unload. A side kit is more versatile than other types of tarping systems. And then there is also the difference in purchase price.
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Tarp or no tarp can also depend on the broker. Last week I hauled a load of drive bogeys for the railroad from MT to MI. My load was from Landstar and they said no tarp. There was another truck there who got his load from a different broker (can't remember who now) that required a full tarp. Needless to say he was pretty pissed when he saw me pull in, load, chain, and go all while he was still there tarping his load of the same items.
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It depends on the type of freight you haul. There are a lot of step deck loads which will go on a flat. Even a lot of step deck loads will require tarps. My 53' step deck has a 42' bottom deck. I prefer a 11' top deck. Risers or elevators would also be good to have along with ramps on a step deck. There are some companies that manufacture ramps which are also used as risers or elevators. You do have some versatility with a step deck. I have gotten loads with a step deck that would not work on a flat. I have also lost flat bed loads when I have had my step deck. Not all shippers will load both types of trailers. If you pull a flat, step or other type of open trailer you will either need to tarp much of the time or sit quite a bit. |
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You are not limited at all with a side kit as long as you are willing to break it down and stow it on or under the trailer. I usually stow mine on the front of the trailer. There are companies that make storage compartments that fit underneath the trailer. If you are unwilling to break the kit down, you will limit yourself to some degree with lumber, etc. To me it isn't a great sacrifice since wood products are usually cheap. I rarely haul lumber. In fact, I am not sure that I have hauled a load of lumber in more than a year. With a side kit you can still haul over width loads as long as you break down the kit. Each trailer has it's benefits and drawbacks. Flats and steps cost more than most vans, and then there is the cost of tarps and securement equipment. Any type of open trailer will require some physical effort. Each load is somewhat different. If you don't want to tarp I would suggest not getting into open trailers. You may be happier with a van or reefer. All you usually do with either is drive. There are some exceptions where you will need to assist in unloading, however you can choose to hire a lumper to do that work for you. |
I make it sound easy because it is.
Just like the story about the aluminum billets in the summer....if they would have been quoted a reasonable line haul rate + a high tarp fee, they would not have been tarped. :lol: As far as SD's getting fewer tarped loads, this is most likely because machinery often doesn't require a tarp. |
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