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Originally Posted by GMAN

An in-frame is a rebuild. You may be thinking of a re-manufactured engine. The remain engine is usually done at the factory. You pull your old engine out and put the new one in. Those are rather expensive. A remained CAT runs about $25,000, as I recall. Most engines can be rebuilt from about $10-18,000. With the last work I just had done on one truck my rebuild is about $25,000.

An in-frame replaces the pistons, liners, injectors, sleeves, o-rings, turbo, oil pump, water pump, bearings, cam shaft, etc., You basically replace all the moving parts and bearings. It may not be necessary to replace the injectors and turbo, but I would not want to rebuild an engine without doing so. Some re-builders may not want to warranty an engine without replacing all the components. Some may also want to replace the radiator. Of course, all belts and hoses should also be replaced. There are different levels of re-builds. Personally, I think it is a good idea to just replace everything while you have things torn down.

There are signs that an engine is having problems. If you drive a truck on a regular basis, you should be able to tell a difference in how the tuck performs. Loss of power, smoking, missing, etc., are common signs. If you regularly do an oil analysis, you can also spot problems with excessive wear before they become critical.

Thanks a bunch, Gman, for taking the time to explain it to me.

You are welcome, Graymist. One thing I will mention about the injectors and a rebuild. If you don't replace the injectors during a rebuild and drop a tip and mess up the engine, the warranty will likely not cover the damage, which will be rather expensive. :x

Quote:

$50K should get you in the 2003 to 2004 range depending on the overall quality of the truck.

I've read that 2004's and newer trucks run much hotter than pre 2004's. How much more problamatic are these newer tractors or is it an insignifficant factor not worth considering?

Drive safe

I would go with a pre-emission 2003 or older truck, better fuel mileage, less engine heat, only one ECM computer = less headache.

2004-2007 run a little hotter, which affects the longevity of under the hood components. They have at least three ECM and multiple EGR sensors. Fuel mileage is lower than pre-emission engines.

2008 with their Diesel Particule Filters are too new to know the reliability of the engines, IMO more sensors= More headaches.

IMO, If you want to keep your wallet heavy stay with a pre-emission engine.

I have a CAT in my International with almost 900,000 miles and it seems to be doing very well. But, I have changed the oil about every 15,000 miles. I hope to get over a million on it before having to rebuild it. I have spoken to some who have gone over a million miles before having to do an in-frame.

Quote:

GMAN,

You change your oil every month-and-a-half to 2 months?

Don't you like the synthetic oils? Seems like they would go at least twice the distance, get better fuel mileage and save you on engine wear.

I once read an article where they ran a 1965 Lincoln Continental for 100,000 miles on the same oil. They tore the engine down and claim engine wear was not Noticeable, that they could have thrown the engine parts back into the assembly line and assemblers wouldn't have notice they wre USED components.

-My opinion. I wouldn't hasitate to run 100% synthetics on trucking equipment.

God Bless all

Quote:

Originally Posted by LexAtlanta

$50K should get you in the 2003 to 2004 range depending on the overall quality of the truck. Mileage should be in the 500,000s. As G-Man said the Pete will have more interior room and fuel mileage should be about the same between them. A UOA might be tough if the oil has been changed recently. For us we do a PM and change the oil on all incoming trucks. Try and find out who the previous owner was. If it was a fleet it was probably well maintained. If it was a private owner it could be hit or miss. I would also give serious consideration to purchasing an extended warranty.

Whatever you buy, enjoy it!

If you buy it from arrow's lot :lol:

Since I've seen some recent reply's, I thought I would update everyone who is reading.....I bought an '05 387 the beginning of Dec. I love the truck and I am learning all the quirks of this model and this truck. I cannot get good CB reception for anything! I have a NEW Radio, NEW Coax, and a NEW Wilson top loaded antenna mounted out back of the sleeper. Not sure how I am getting out, problem is the static volume increases A LOT as the turbo winds up and drowns everybody out. The grounds have been checked at the motor and radio-all seem fine. A RF noise filter did nothing. Anybody have any ideas??? I talked with a guy who had the same model but an '03 and same antenna set up and he was recieving about 10 miles and no static issue! Thanks for all of your input.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mandilon

Quote:

It isn't that I don't like the synthetic oils, but the price. Synthetic oil is more expensive and most tell me the recommended change intervals are about the same. I have done well with organic oil and see no need to change the type of oil at this point. Theoretically, I think the synthetic oils could be better for the engine. Some organic oils are now suggesting they can go longer without a change. I change the oil at about 15,000 miles regardless of the time frame. It is probably about every 6 weeks or so.

My choice as to whether to use organic or synthetic oils is based upon the difference in oil change costs and I don't think it is a good idea to make major changes in the type of oil used once you start using a certain type of oil, especially from organic to synthetic. If my engine had fewer miles on it, I might consider it. I think that when you can get at least 900,000 on an engine using organic oil, it is a good idea to keep doing what you are doing.

What about the Mack engines (pre-Volvo), I'm a company driver and have a 2001 Mack 460 and it burns about 2 gallons of oil a week! It's the 100 year anniversary special edition, so it has a ton of upgrades..a very nice trcuk but looks like it needs a reman or in line. My company wants to sell it (to me or elsewhere), wondering what a reman/inline might cost and what the value is before said work?