I am glad to see that you aren't planning on starting out with a new truck. I believe you will like the larger sleeper, but it could limit you to some degree, on what you can haul due to weight. You mentioned a step deck and a couple of brands. If you get a step deck, I suggest staying away from an aluminimum trailer. They don't seem to hold up as well as steel. I have a steel and wood step deck and prefer that rather than aluminum. I can haul some freight than cannot be hauled on a combo or aluminum trailer. I also have a 96 wide flat bed with a side kit. I don't recall having a problem getting loads with it because of the width. The nice thing about having a 102 wide is that it is sometimes easier to walk around on the deck. I prefer a 102, but starting out, I would go with what ever I could get a good deal. There are advantages to having a flat or step deck. They are two different animals. You can haul some things on a step deck which will pay more than on a flat. For instance, I can haul something on my step deck that is 10' tall. I could not haul that on my flat bed. On the other hand, there are some shippers who will not load a step deck, either because of using a loading dock or simply not wanting to load a step deck. If I were you, I would probably start with a flat. You can always sell it and by a step deck later. Unless you find a lot of step deck freight, you may wind up hauling flat bed freight on a step deck. Right now, I am primarily using my flat bed. It has a side kit and I am doing very well hauling for a particular company that requires side kits. You may want to consider getting a side kit later, if you decide to go with a flat. Regardless of what you purchase, you will want to be able to scale at least 45,000 pounds. Pulling flats, being able to haul up to 48,000 or more weight can be an asset, at times. I don't think you will be able to scale that much weight with your truck because of the big sleeper. Once you get everything set up, you may want to find a CAT Scale and weigh it. That way you will know what you need to look for in a trailer. If you go with a flat, East and Raven are two good choices. You may also take a look at some other brands.

GMAN, what types of freight can you haul with the side kit that you can't without it? How difficult is it to break down if you need to?

Yep...what uturn said.

The 102 will save ya some headaches.

tootie

trailers, if you haul flat are personal preference choices. i have a 48 by 96 all steel trailer. why? because it was the best deal & the best i could do at the time of purchase. as far as side kit or not. i prefer not. again just personal choice. at one time i hauled steel out & lumber back. cant do the lumber deal w/ a side kit. loaded for 2 years straight plastic pipe 2 blocks from home. paid 450 for 95 mi. & usually 3 bucks a mile. again no pipe with side kit. another thing side kits add weight too. i have a all steel trailer as mentioned before, but i can haul 50,000lbs legal. because i have a cabover & no side kit. but if i were with a co, that had the freight i wanted but required a side kit, i'd have one. you can always take off. some hate tarping. i dont mind. a reitinour is a very good trailer & light, but expensive. there have been plenty of times when other drivers & myself were up north, snow coming down & the only loads going home were 48,000-49,000 lbs. none of the big hoods could haul em .. me & my lightweight deal were happy being the only one of us to be headed home. i live in a steel town, so there is always freight going & coming. but the weight can be a issue at times. so stay as light as possible

Some shippers require a side kit rather than a standard flat. I am hauling some nursery stock. The better paying loads require a side kit. Some load a straight flat, but it is better for the trees if they don't have a strap across them. With a side kit, we just put a mesh tarp over the top. Some aluminum coils require a side kit. Copper tubing and some other types of pipe and/or tubing require a side kit. Some also require a side kit to haul onions. I used to haul for a company who required side kits for their California runs. I like a side kit because it is much quicker to load than if you have to throw tarps. It can take 2 hours to break down the kit and store it. You don't want to continually be breaking the kit down and putting it up. If you leave the sides up you can leave most everything you will need inside the trailer, which saves time. When I pull my side kit, I rarely take down the sides.

Gman wrote:
Gman...is that because most of your loading is rear load from a dock? Otherwise, unless it's a top load, I would think you would have to remove at lease one side.

Hey Gman...thanks for anticipating my question ahead of time and answering it on the Covered Wagon post.

Now if you could only tell me what the stock market is going to be doing tomorrow.... 8)

all steel trailers
 

you guys are saying you use all-steel trailers.. but aren't they much heavier than aluminum or condo ones? doesn't their heavier weight limit how much you can gross? thanks.

Geoman, I rarely load from the rear at a loading dock. For the most part, you will usually need to take some panels and posts down for loading. I just picked up some steel in Roanoke and didn't need to take down anything. I loaded at the same place a couple of days earlier and had to take down 2 panels. Go figure. It depends on what you load. Most of the time I probably take down about half of the drivers side for loading. When I load nursery stock most of one side is taken down for loading. Again, it depends on what I am hauling.

As far as the stock market is concerned, I guarantee you that it will be up and down. GUARANTEED. :wink:

Re: all steel trailers
 

Tracer, steel and wood trailers are heavier than aluminum. However, there are some shippers who require wood and steel floors. Depending on the truck I have under my covered wagon, I can scale up to 47,000. With my step deck I can only scale about 44,500 if I pull it with my International. I am currently pulling my side kit with my International and can only scale a little over 45,000. I think steel holds up better than aluminum. Aluminum trailers tend to have a problem with stress fractures more than steel. While it is true that steel is heavier, they will likely out last an aluminum trailer. I haul equipment and machinery and prefer the wood and steel deck for support. I have had an aluminum deck to bow by driving a fork lift on the surface. That won't happen with wood. Some military loads require a wood and steel floor. Each has their benefits and drawbacks. Most of the heavier loads don't pay any more than those that are light. In fact, most of the best paying loads I have hauled are light weight.