Doing the deed, transitioning dryvan to flatbed
 

That's right boys, I go both ways! :shock: Flatbeds or vans, doesn't matter to me.... I haven't pulled flatbed in 10 years but I may start again just next week. Gman, all y'all, looking for any good advice.

1) What would you say to a van driver going flatbed? The money is better, yeah?

2) What do you think about this greenhorn securement package my company wants me to get? What would you buy differently?

>18 oz tarps 2-24 x 16 with flap
1-24 x 20 center tarp
>chains 8-5/16 x 20' no. 7
4- 3/8 x 20' no. 7
>ratchet binders 8 - 6600lbs
>safety lever binders 4
>straps 14- 4"x30'
>bungees 2 boxes- 21"
>hug porta winches 2
>cheater bar 1
>headache rack
>plastic edge protectors 24
>steel edge protectors 24
>coil racks 8
>steel tape 1- 35'
>rubber friction mats 4
>rope 1- 200'
>duct tape 1 roll
>large bottle of shampoo and 4 bars of deodorant soap :wink:

One guy suggested 26' chains. Don't know what the mats are for or why I'd need rope. Steel edge protectors? Is that like $50 worth of rubber tire pieces or something? Headache racks!? Is there a certain brand that's better than another? Any place got Walmart Always Low pricing on them? Width matter?

3) Is everybody agreed stepdeck has better opportunities than flatbed? What lengths of upper/lower decks? Certain brand of trailer that's good? Aluminum or steel? Spread axles? Tandems? Sliding? Dump valve (not exactly sure what that is except I know you can scrape the snot out of the front tires on spreads.)

4) If I go flatbed, does that mean I'm no longer a girlie man, lazy #@*& box jock?

Yeah so, really, anybody want to talk a bit about the difference between the two? Lots of time these seem like two separate worlds. I'd appreciate any advice about switching over the smart way. :)

Headache rack on the lowboy at my old company was a EAST and it was nice.

Been looking into headache racks. Racks for for chains and binders seem useful. Bucket or tray or whatever it's called down at the bottom, useful as well. Split or full, don't know why anyone would want split. Tool box? Maybe if it isn't too deep, I may pull a van load or two even with the headache rack on there. Fully enclosed? Almost double the money. Don't see a need just starting out. One vote for 'East', thanks Mackman. Other good brands or they all about the same?

the rope was probably suggested to help ya pull tarps into position, put it through the eye and pull it over the load.

That's why I'm asking. 50' or 100' feet of nylon cord from Dollar General, $1. 200' of rope, $20. I just want to put the money in the right places.

I have often wondered about trying flatbedding too. At Landstar, they seem to keep running with good loads all year round. I know it is a lot more work and can be dangerous...to me and my 49 year old knees AND the folks around me if it isn't secured properly.

I checked the load board at the Flying hook in Tampa, where I live, today and all the loads are flatbed. Just for instance.

I have done OK with my logistic dry van (straps, load bars, plywood, blankets and ramps). However the flatbedders boast of the highest paying loads consistently. Are you guys telling the truth? I really wonder about changing horses in midstream...

There has to be a learning curve on securement, tarping and building loads...my best paying loads are always LTL and filling up the box 1 stop at a time.

Cam, I would suggest going with the 3/8" chains rather than 5/16. There is no need to duplicate different size chains. I usually keep at least 10. You will need one rachet for each chain. I have had to use every one of them before. You will need 2 metal protectors per chain. The same for the straps. I would go with the heaviest possible and have 1 or 2 more than the winches you have on the trailer. I am not sure why you would need 8 coil racks. I usually keep 5 on my side kit. That has usually been sufficient, however, your company should know what is needed. You will also probably want to get 2 beveled pieces of wood for each coil rack, about 4"x4" and about 4' long. 2 pieces of rubber belting or matting would be good to place in each coil rack. It protects the coil and helps hold it in place. You may also want to get a pair of safety glasses and safety helmet. Some steel plant require them. Safety shoes with a steel toe and good traction is mandatory for working on a wet trailer. You may also want to get some pampers or scrap pieces of carpeting for protecting your tarps when you are hauling things with sharp edges. I prefer a 102" in a step deck, but own a 96" flat. I don't recall any loads I have lost because of a more narrow trailer, but if you plan on hauling equipment, there could be times when a 102" would be better. I prefer a steel and wood trailer. It isn't as slick in bad weather and costs a little less to purchase. It is also more difficult to punch a hole in a wood and steel deck. There are also some loads which may require a wood deck. They won't load an aluminum deck. These are usually military loads, but could be other compaies, as well. Personally, I think the steel will outlast an aluminim trailer and it is much easier to have a steel trailer repaired. Not everyone can repair an aluminum trailer. The down side is that a steel trailer is a little heavier than an aluminum. Transcraft makes a good trailer, as does Great Dane and Doonan. Lufkin makes a decent no frills trailer. You can probably buy a Transcraft or Great Dane for less than a Doonan. Doonan is at the top of the food chain for step decks. You will normally pay several thousand dollars for one of their trailers. There are a number of different brands which are good steps. Everyone has their preferences. It will also depend on whether you buy new or used.

Sometimes you have more opportunities with a step deck and other times you can do better with a flat bed. It depends on where you plan on running. I lost a couple of loads this week because I didn't have a flat. I have also gotten loads because of the step deck. I prefer a 11' upper deck. A 10' or less isn't adequate for some freight and may require you to have the 5th wheel moved to the back. You need to watch your distance between your mud flap hangers on your tractor and the trailer when you make turns. That is another reason to buy a 11' upper deck. You should probably have at least 40' on the lower deck, because of the 40' containers. Sometimes, you can get a good rate on containers if you have a step deck.

There are several good brands of headache racks. I would probably go with which one gave me the best price. Road Gear is a popular name. A sliding rear axle would be good if you plan on running California. It will also save the tires when you close the tandem. If you go with a 48' it will not be an issue. I would go with at least a 51' step deck. I have a 53'. If you don't buy a spread axle you won't need a dump valve. A dump valve dumps the air out of the bags on one of your trailer axles to reduce resistance when making a turn saving wear and tear on the tires, springs, etc.,

And only REAL men pull a flat bed. No wimps allowed. :lol:

There I go repeating myself again. :roll:

Beachbum2 This is interesting. I did kitchen cabinets and pad wrapped Steelcase when I was at Perkins. With Landstar, I've had my eye on my own van with full logistics equipment. Like you, I guess, I've always got my sights on driving up the profit margins (2nd truck and hiring somebody is a quantum leap farther down the road from what I can currently see). This will sound strange but I've been wrestling with God over this for a week. It kind of blows me away but it surely appears He pays enough attention to this business of mine to force the issue of transitioning me over. I'm serious, I'm still learning about Him and I'm still sorting it all out but it's been some uncanny occurrences that have brought me to the point of doing this right now.

When you say more freight out of Tampa and more freight year round you really get my attention, Beachbum. Other Landstar flattbedders have confirmed the higher rates but when I look on the board they don't look all that higher and there's just some dirt cheap flatbed freight as well.

Having done it for a year, I remember that you pick it up pretty quickly. Experience then takes you into over dimensional freight/permits/flag cars/stingers and I don't know all what. I think pulling flatbed as a company driver is ludicrous because you earn almost as much as a van driver and you've got all the extra work, dirt and sweat. But these O/O flatbedders... c'mon now, tell us, what's the story?

CAM, I guess you already know Landstar will finance you on a trailer with $1,000.00 down since you have 1 year in the system. I bought mine in 2003 and payments are $76.00 per week...for 5 years. The extra % has made a big difference, however I have missed out on lots of pre-loaded runs from CA and OH-IL areas.

All in all it was a good choice for me.