Flat beds
 

Hello everybody. I've been lurking on her for a few days, and I finally decided to post. I've been out of trucking for a little more than a year, and since I've been going broke trying to make a go of it in the insurance biz(I have two brothers doing it that said I would have no regrets, they just forgot to mention the $15,000 in debt), I decided to get back to what I love doing. And I do love it, so all the OTR haters can stay away from this post.

I have a new job pulling a flat bed, and I was just trying to get some general advice about tying down loads and tarping, since I haven't done this kind of hauling before. The work aspect of it doesn't bother me, my previous job had me loading a lot of boxes by hand. I just have no idea about the regulations involving securing your load. I also know nothing about the Qualcomm, and I'm curious about that as well.

Any advice will be appreciated.

The best advice I can give you is to watch what other drivers are doing to tie down and tarp loads when you are waiting to be loaded. Everybody has a different style of tarping and some work better than others, but trial and error will go a long way there. Many newbies are tempted to tarp and then strap over that, but this is extremely hard on the tarps and isn't a good idea. I do however put a 2 inch strap over the joint of my tarps to prevent seperation.

You can download a document from the DOT about securement requirements. That is a good place to start.

Now I tend to use a 4 inch strap for every 5,000 pounds of product weight, or a chain and binder for every 10,00 pounds of product weight. I use a strap for every 8 feet of wooden items, and 1 strap for every 4 feet on metal items. Every item needs to have 2 straps over it as well.

You also need some sort of securement against the load moving forward or backward. For most items that is just a pair of 2 inch straps in an x pattern accross the front of the load. For sheet metal that is a pair of chains in an x pattern accross the front of them. Other loads may take some creativity.

So for example if I am loading bundles of 8 foot long lumber. A load might be 12 bundles, so that is 6 pairs side by side from the front to the back of my 48' trailer. Each stack will get 2 straps for a total of 12 straps down the trailer. 5,000 pounds per strap times 12 straps means I have 60,000 pounds of securement, and I can only legally haul 48,500. I would also take a pair of 2 inch straps hooked at the front corner running diagonally up the front of the load and down the side.

If I am loading 16 foot lumber a typical load might be 9 bundles, or three stacks of 3, with a pair side by side and one on top. Two straps per bundle would leave more than 8 feet between the straps so I need at least 3. Three straps per bundle would mean 9 altogether, but 9 times 5,000 is only 45,000 pounds so I would add another strap to the front bundle to make 50,000 pounds worth of straps.




You will have to ask your company what they want you to do with the qualcomm, since every company does things differently with those.

The best advice I can give you is to watch what other drivers are doing to tie down and tarp loads when you are waiting to be loaded. Everybody has a different style of tarping and some work better than others, but trial and error will go a long way there. Many newbies are tempted to tarp and then strap over that, but this is extremely hard on the tarps and isn't a good idea. I do however put a 2 inch strap over the joint of my tarps to prevent seperation.

You can download a document from the DOT about securement requirements. That is a good place to start.

Now I tend to use a 4 inch strap for every 5,000 pounds of product weight, or a chain and binder for every 10,00 pounds of product weight. I use a strap for every 8 feet of wooden items, and 1 strap for every 4 feet on metal items. Every item needs to have 2 straps over it as well.

You also need some sort of securement against the load moving forward or backward. For most items that is just a pair of 2 inch straps in an x pattern accross the front of the load. For sheet metal that is a pair of chains in an x pattern accross the front of them. Other loads may take some creativity.

So for example if I am loading bundles of 8 foot long lumber. A load might be 12 bundles, so that is 6 pairs side by side from the front to the back of my 48' trailer. Each stack will get 2 straps for a total of 12 straps down the trailer. 5,000 pounds per strap times 12 straps means I have 60,000 pounds of securement, and I can only legally haul 48,500. I would also take a pair of 2 inch straps hooked at the front corner running diagonally up the front of the load and down the side.

If I am loading 16 foot lumber a typical load might be 9 bundles, or three stacks of 3, with a pair side by side and one on top. Two straps per bundle would leave more than 8 feet between the straps so I need at least 3. Three straps per bundle would mean 9 altogether, but 9 times 5,000 is only 45,000 pounds so I would add another strap to the front bundle to make 50,000 pounds worth of straps.




You will have to ask your company what they want you to do with the qualcomm, since every company does things differently with those.

Keep your eyes open when driving and check out every flatbed that drives by. Check out anything out of the ordinary when in a truck stop. Ask ANY flatbed driver for help and they will be all over you. Ask the shipper how most others secure their load.

There is also a book called "Cargo Securement" by J.J. Keller you can order online.

Also look for license plates from Maine. They have no life up their so they practice securing there home made campers to their Ford pickups on their time off. They are very knowledgeable.

Since I have not seen anything about it, when I pulled flatbed, I always tried to carry anywhere from a half dozen to a dozen 4 X 4's, about the length of the bed (8 feet). If I was hauling a load of small pipe, angle-iron, or things like flat or round stock, I would stack enough of them RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE LOAD to form a bulkhead there. One on top of the other, then a loop of chain around each end, and a binder across the middle so that it would tighten them down to the bed. The loops are pulled together and that pulls them down to the bed. When you're done, you should be able to exert any amount of force you can on them and not have them even twitch. I don't really know of any better way to keep small dimension steel in bundles from shifting without that. The idea is NOT TO ALLOW the steel to GET UP ANY INERTIA if you have to hit the brakes. Do not allow it to get a start. You may have to put some of them down to set the load on, but keep enough for that bulkhead. I have successfully stacked them as much as 2 feet high.

I also know of a driver that died near Sterling, IL because a woman in her Cadillac didn't think she had to stop for a stop sign. The driver hit the brakes to avoid hitting her, and the steel angle-iron came out of the center of the bundles. It went THROUGH the head-ache rack, the back of the sleeper, through the seat, through the driver, and through the dash. The driver was killed instantly. (Source of this information was IL DOT, while I was being given a level 3... which I passed.)

At times, those 4 X 4's may be a hassle, but how much hassle is your life worth?

YUP!!!! So true in so many different ways.

E=MC2 The amount of energy is the mass times the velocity of light squared. Get rid of the velocity by a headboard and you have decreased the energy exponentially.

Well, when you have bundles of small dimension steel, banded, it doesn't seem to matter how tight they make the banding, the pieces in the center can be moved quite easily. If you have something from 10 to 40 feet long, that's a lot of force in a small area if you allow it to go more than 6 inches. I've had a couple of pieces, 20 foot, that were able to move about 2 feet, and embedded themselves about 3 inches into oak 4 X 4's. Now, let them move 8 feet to an aluminum head-ache rack.

You may want to get yourself some pieces of carpet or pampers to use underneath your straps. It sometimes doesn't take much to cut through your straps, especially with some types of steel. Duct tape also helps to keep your padding in place. Some rubber matting or belting is also helpful. You can put it underneath some types of steel and pallets to help keep them from moving. This is especially helpful when you have an aluminum deck. Much of securement is common sense. You can pick up a book about securement in many truck stops. Look in the section where they sell log books. When I secure a load, especially steel, I always use at least one more strap or chain than the rules require. Remember, you can NEVER have too much securement. I ALWAYS check my chains and straps EVERY TIME I stop. They can work a little loose as the load settles. Keep an eye on your load as you drive. You should be able to see it in your mirrors. Be alert to any changes in where your load sits. It is good to stay a little cautious. You NEVER want to be 100% comfortable with some loads. I have seen too many serious accidents that could have been prevented had they taken a few more minutes to properly secure their load. It is much easier to prevent a load from moving than to stop it once it starts to move. Never allow anyone to rush you when you are trying to secure a load. Take your time and DON'T move your truck until you are comfortable with the way you have it secured. If I run across something different I always ask the shipper how they want it secured. Some freight has certain places they want a load secured. For instance, some air conditioners may have slots or certain areas where you need to secure it to prevent damage to the product. Sometimes the shipper will prefer you use straps rather than chains. I usually prefer using chains on steel, but there are some types you can safely use straps as long as you protect the straps from the steel. If you lease to a carrier they should provide you some guidance in this area. I know CRST Malone has a few pages in their book they give drivers and owner operators to use as a guide in how to properly secure their load. It can be a good, quick reference, even for those who have been pulling flats for some time. One other thing.

Load Securement
 

Your state's CDL manual should have info regarding load securement, have it with you. What training did your company's safety department give you? BOL

Re: Flat beds
 

I am surprised that your carrier hasn't gone over some of these issues with you. A qualcomm is much like the keyboard of a computer. You can usually do some abbreviating rather than typing the entire words out. For instance rather than typing out "EMPTY" you may type "MT". There are some keys which can be used for specific things such as "LOADED", etc., If I remember correctly, carriers pay by the character so they prefer to keep typing to a minimum. The qualcomm has a number of features including GPS tracking.

Thanks for all the info. Unfortunately, I have to play insurance agent for the next month, so I haven't been trained by my new company. That is why I'm asking you guys a bunch of general questions. I'm a little impatient to get through my training, because I need to start making money fast. Since I've already drove, I just need to soak up as much knowledge about flatbedding as I can.

I assume that you have made a decision on the company for which you plan on working, judging from your post. Just take your time. You don't want to get in too big a hurry when it comes to flat bed. Feel free to ask anything you want. I am sure someone will be able your questions.

[quote="NotSteve"]uh...steve, you don't know what you're talking about :lol:

E=MC2 is a formula that deals with nuclear energy, and the energy an atom has just through existence....NOT motion!!!

There are two different relevent formulas, if that's what you're into. First is KE=MV2....Kinetic energy is equal to the mass of the object, times it's velocity SQUARED....an object moving twice as fast as a similar object has 4 times the energy....

Also, momentum! P(momentum) = mass x velocity....pretty straight forward.

Gman, You're right about not wanting to get into to big of a hurry with the flatbed. I just have to keep on reminding myself that I know nothing about securing loads when I first start out. I'll be patient enough about that, I'm just impatient to start getting decent paychecks again. Even though I drove OTR for 2+ years ticket and accident free, I know I still have plenty to learn about that as well.

Other Flatbedders, heavyhaulers, shippers and even some receivers can all give you good information on how various things are secured. You have a month...drive around when your not responsible for any work...stop and talk.

TMC drivers...Maverick drivers..Landstar or CRSTMalone O/O's...many many others, most all of the experienced drivers are gonna talk yer leg off and show what they have for extra equipment.


I don't worry about how to secure things to a flatbed..I just make sure caps are tight, dome lids are buttoned down properly, and that product discharge & internal valves are close and capped!


If it ain't round..I don't wanna move it any more!

Can also check here.

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul.../cs-policy.htm

been a flatbedder 6 months. i learn something new every day almost.

i watch and listen and use alot of common sense.

like, will this damage the freight? will this hold? is this legal? etc

BOL, have fun

I haul these types of bundles nearly everyday. When hauling these, it helps a TON if you belly wrap each bundle atleast 2 times (depending on length of bundle). If you dont know, belly wrapping is when you throw your strap over top of the bundle, then run the strap underneath the bundle, so that your pulling the strap toward you, then throw it over the bundle and secure the strap.
Note that belly wraps DO seem to come loose often, so keep an eye on them.
Also, when bellywrapping, make sure you throw the strap OVER TOP the bunder first and NOT run the strap under the bundle first. Running it over top, creates a downforce, which is what you want.

I find it necessary to belly wrap for almost ANY SMOOTH BUNDLED roundbar, steel flatbar, or anything that will really not "grip to itself", such as rebar will.
Rebar has what they call pinch points and each piece naturally kinda grabs one another, therefore it doesnt really go anywhere and simply throwing your straps over the load is fine.

I've been flatbedding for almost 2 years now and I still learn something new almost everyday, especially since I'm now hauling specifically designed stainless steel products. The load is different everyday and I got to evaluate how I'm going secure every piece without damaging my straps or the material, but making sure it is also safe.

ALSO, DONT BE SCARED to SPEAK UP if you dont like how something is loaded on your trailer and you want it moved. Alot of these guys at shippers fly around on forklifts 100mph like idiots, almost to the point that it seems like they're trying to intimadate you. If you want something moved, tell them. Otherwise, they're gonna assume your content with how it lays. If they give you a problem, just tell them that they either got to move it or you gotta call dispatch to let them now about the load being a possible risk.

Good luck to you. After you get the hang of it after a couple months, you probably will never want to pull a van again. If I can help out, feel free to PM me. Who are you doing to be driving for.

Like Jimbpard says don't be scared to tell them to move it. If the fork lift driver won't do it go find a manager. If they still won't do it tell them get it off my trailer or I know a way to get it off real quick :) Crank the wheels hard over and floor it :) :)
On the serious side, over the years I have never found a place that wouldn't move a load around even though they might bitch some. Just remember you are the one telling them where to move it to so can't come back and bitch at them cuz it won't scale and you need it moved.

I'd advise that you buy some of that stuff they use for patching pool liners (the name eludes me right now), and, if you get a chance to salvage bits of worn out tarps to use as patches, do so.
The biggest thing I can tell you is don't be afraid to ask other flatbed drivers.. when I first started pulling flatbeds, I'd come off of a tanker, and the brief course I was given by the company really didn't do a whole lot for me. I think the best bit of instruction I'd received was from a Melton O/O, who was willing to take the time to work with me on this. I learned more from him in a couple hours time than I had at the five day course the company had put me through.
If you have a means to install a padlock on your headache rack to prevent your chains and binders from being stolen, then be certain to do that, because there will be people who take no issue with stealing them off of your truck.
And use a little personal judgment when you receive advice from others. There are drivers out they with a great wealth of knowledge... but there are also some out there who are full of shit. If something they tell you sounds utterly absurd, chances are, it is.

If you get around a tarp shop they usually have patching kits you can buy and keep on your truck. If you get in a bind you can sometimes use duct tape in an emergency. It works if the rip isn't very large as a temporary patch. One thing about it, I have gotten more help from other flat bedders than anything else that I have pulled over the years. When I say flat bedders, I include heavy haul, steps and most any type of similar open trailers. You will find them to be very helpful. I was in Birmingham a few weeks ago tarping a load. It was really hot and I was somewhat dehydrated. Another flat bedder who was with another guy came over and helped me with one of my tarps. I didn't even ask him, but it was sure appreciated. You will find that with many flat bedders. I have done the same for other flat bedders. I have had some come over and help fold and roll up a tarp, etc.,

I will be driving for Great Plains Trucking out of Salina, KS.

That is one of the best things I found about trucking, is the amount of help and advice you can get from truckers who have been around the block a couple of times. Some of it you have to take with a grain of salt, but a lot of it is helpful.