Fridge for Freightliner Columbia
Just got upgraded to a 2005 Columbia with a tri-pak. Would like to upgrade from my Coleman cooler to a real fridge. Measured space, then looked around (Wally mart, Sears, Target, Office depot and such) for one that would fit in the hole. No luck so far.
Does anyone know of a make/model that will fit in the hole for the fridge, and who sells it? TIA, Dan |
Re: Fridge for Freightliner Columbia
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http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=2593968 |
Re: Fridge for Freightliner Columbia
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Thanks, Dan |
http://www.truckfridge.com/models.html
Efficient fridges that have true 12VDC compressors, not inverters running an AC compressor. In english, they're much more efficient. |
Re: Fridge for Freightliner Columbia
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Sure but it will actually last, and is a true fit.
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Here is a few things to consider.
1. Unless that APU provides AC power through an inverter tied into the truck's batteries you are not going to have AC power to keep an AC fridge operating while running down the road unless you leave the APU running. Likewise if the APU does not have a charger hooked into the batteries and you install an inverter for your fridge you may wake up to a dead truck in the morning. 2. If this is a company truck you could get into major trouble if you start tearing out cabinets. |
Re: Fridge for Freightliner Columbia
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rev v. ouch! sometimes kids need diapers changed. most companies will fire someone for pulling out cabinets. yeah tech. has changed. my apu supplies 120v. all the time it will kick on when it needs to. it is smarter than me. as far as fridge, pull out cabinet and fit the largest freezer/ fridge that will fit behind your seat when it is set for best driving. buy a cheap wal mart micro wave and you will save lots of money on food
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Take the cabinet out, you should not get fired (??) because you can save the bolts and put the dang thing back in. I've done it several times myself.
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The Tri Pack is basicaly a big motorized generator. They put in a big invertor, think 2000 watt is standard, mine I got a 3000 watt cuz of all the cr@p I plug in. It runs everything and if the batteries get low the Tri Pack fires up and re charges the batteries. The Rig Master and Carrier units you have to fire up to get 110 volts.
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meaning that if you max out the standard 1800 watt inverter, you are still draining your batteries...even with the tripac running... Can't leave anything over 700 watts plugged in for any length of time, or you'll drain your batteries... |
What are you running with a super drain ? At the minute I am in S florida so A/C is running, computer, printer/scanner, fridge, cell is plugged in and heated some soup in the micro. I used my laptop to monitor my batteries, if it switches to on board battery I know it it time to shut other things down.
Maybe your truck batteries are getting weak. |
Are you an O/O or company driver ? If O/O replace the running batteries with deep cycle golf cart batteries. Cost a little more but well worth it. The constant dis-charge/re-charge will break down regular truck batteries in less than a year but golf cart batteries will last 3 or more.
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Haven't had a problem with it, becuase as you say, you will almost never use that much power for any real length of time. But, when I'm using my 1,000 watt water heater for more than a few minutes, even with the APU running, my low battery alarm in my truck starts to go off...becuase the APU can't produce as much energy as is being used, so it drains the batteries.
My truck batteries are a bit weak, but my company won't replace them...I've tried! But, with the apu, I don't think I'll have a problem for quite awhile... :) |
That's the problem, weak batteries. I have a water heater for the sink and shower and the only time I would have a problem was if the WH went on when the micro did, when I switched th the three golf cart batteries the problem went away :D
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Thanks for all the responses.
I think the discussion got settled on the tri-pak issue. Mine has an 1800 watt triplite inverter and the tripak is supposed to charge the batteries as needed. If by chance that does not work as planned (dead batteries) I can jump from the reefer unit if needed, then rethink the issue. This is a company truck. The good news is that it is a small company and they are likely to be ok with removing the cabinet if asked first. I have already removed two bezels, to make room for the cooler and my radio, and stored them in the truck. I did not ask about those two and no one has said anything yet. When I get back to the yard later today I will ask about removing the cabinet and where to store it. Gonna ask permission for removing the cabinet because it is a large item that cannot be stored easily on the truck. Thanks for all the advice. The best answers are usually found here. Thanks again, Dan |
Interstate won't allow the use of a 110 volt fridge because several drivers woke up to their truck on fire started by the cheap 110 fridge that wasn't designed for the constant vibrations and jolts from OTR use. So we as drivers have to buy expensive 12 volt fridges that are designed for such use.
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Got the OK from the shop to remove the cabinet. Didn't think it would be problem but better to ask first. The shop has the cabinet for safekeeping.(BTW it was 4 nuts on the back and 2 bolts on the floor).
Got the fridge last night. A GE 4.3 cubic foot one. It fits ok where the cabinet was, but would like it to be less than 6 inches away from the wall. Still it is way better than the old 12 volt cooler. Put the microwave on top of it and a piece of styrofoam from the packaging between that and the upper cabinet. Seems sturdy enough :roll: Will see if it stays put on I-295 around Richmond later tonight. Used both the fridge + microwave at the same time without any problems yet. Will be testing it out before spending big $$$ on food stuff. Thanks for the great advice everyone, Dan |
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