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rakinraymond · Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Posts: 12 Location: kentucky

Would like some input from someone experienced with this setup. All seems to be working ok. Maybe system could be better. Have 2004 Volvo 670. Has three start batteries and I have added an isolator and 2 6 volt deep cycle batteries with 5000 watt inverter. Deep cycle batteries kept charged thru truck altenator. Deep cycle batteries seem to be charging ok. I use hydrometer to check battery charge. Charge stays at blue to green line on hydrometer. I usually put on battery charger when at home to top off deep cycles. Would like to add 2 more deep cycles. Will the truck altenator keep up ok? Any advise appreciated.

Rev.Vassago · Joined: 04 Apr 2006 Posts: 5179 Location: Green Bay, WI

:shock:

You want to charge SEVEN batteries off your alternator?

rakinraymond · Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Posts: 12 Location: kentucky

I guess that's what i'm asking. Checking with meter, reads 13.8 volts all the time. Been using this setup about 6 months with no problems so far. Currently running fridge, microwave, tv and coffee maker, would like to run electric heater thus the need for the extra batteries.

allan5oh · Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 12:01 pm Post subject:

Wait for the new battery to come out:

www.fireflyenergy.com

With this battery you might be able to get away with 4-5 in one bank, they're starting and deep cycle.

Much more energy density as well.

headborg · Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 1072

So the Truck runs on 12V batteries?- the altn puts out 12-14volts?- and you're trying to tie in 2 6volt batteries---in series? or parallel?

my setup for my truck- you have to stick with same voltage batteries and connect the extra (isolated) ones in parallel.

Now, it might be possible to set up the 2 6volt(in series)=12volt, then connect these(to the isolator) then connect all in parallel to the car battery---
but you're still going to have 12volts running into one 6 volt battery(bad idea)

SteveBooth · Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 3501

You could also replace your alternator with one that's used in EMT vehicles. They use a large rack of batteries and I think the alternator is 200 amp.

rakinraymond · Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Posts: 12 Location: kentucky

Thanks for all the replys. I would prefer to keep the starting and deep cycle seperate. I know the electonics on this truck require alot of battery power. The deep cycle 6 volts are connect in parallel for 12 volt to the inverter. I can just get alot more amp hours out of 2 6 volt batteries. I figured the stock altenator was at least 110 to 115 amp. Figured that was enough since starting batteries don't require that big of a charge. Wondering if a 200 amp altenator would be big enough to keep the deep cycles charged. Future plans to run electric heater will draw about 400 watts. I usually turn off inverter when driving and let deep cycles charge up, just not sure 4 deep cycles will charge enough between down times. Anybody know how to measure amp charge to batteries from altenator?

solo379 · Joined: 14 Feb 2004 Posts: 3129

allan5oh wrote: Wait for the new battery to come out:

www.fireflyenergy.com

Yeah! I saw it. Wondering on a price tho.... :roll:

ncnewbie · Joined: 16 Oct 2005 Posts: 162

First thing I'd recommend when charging deep cycle batteries is a charge controller. When your batteries are deeply discharged, your alternator will be only too happy to try to replace the charge as quickly as possible. To the point of overheating and burning itself up! The charge controller uses input from heat sensors on the batteries and alternator to regulate the amount of current the alternator outputs (and prevent it overheating). It also uses a 3 stage charge process that helps the deep cycle batteries last longer.

Xantrex makes a control panel with charge controller, battery voltage readout, amps and more. It's pricey! Balmar's is less costly but has a readout that shows codes and you have to look them up. Here's some links:

http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/99/p/1/pt/7/product.asp
http://www.balmar.net/page15-maxchargemain.html

Depending on the load on the batteries, you'd need at least the 200 amp alternator unless you're going to leave the engine running 20+ hours a day. This is assuming you'll be putting a fairly deep discharge on the batteries overnight. A 1000 watt space heater would draw about 90-100A per hour depending on the inverter's efficiency etc.

I've seen 200A alternators for trucks for $299 + shipping. A 270A jumps to $799! 270 is the limit I've found using the stock alternator dimensions. The more amps the thicker the wires etc. Here's a link about choosing a high out alternator. Note the part about engines with computer controls (ECMs).

http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml#Top

I'd also recommend using a battery separator instead of isolator. The isolators are known for excessive voltage drop which prevents the deep cycle batteries from fully charging.

And last but not least, batteries lose a lot of the charge they're rated for as temperature drops. At 32F, a 250AH battery might only be able to produce 180AH at the 20AH rate (i.e. your inverter won't be able to put out near as long in winter as in summer). To overcome this, I'd consider using AGM deep cycle batteries and put them inside the truck, like under the bed. The AGMs aren't subject to spilling nor will you get fumes.

I've been researching this subject for awhile, especially using the deep cycle battery bank for cooling in the summer. Let me know if you have any questions I can help with. I'd also be interested in reading about your results as you continue with your project!

rakinraymond · Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Posts: 12 Location: kentucky

THANKS NCNEWBIE Thats the information I have been looking for. Not much information out there about what I would like to set up. I will try your suggestions as I have some down time right now. I will let you know the setup and how it performs.

Doghouse · Joined: 21 Mar 2007 Posts: 824

Real world application, not the numbers game that is used to size up these systems.
I have 6 trojan L-16 (1050ah) running through a Xantrex RS3000 (3000 constant/ 7500 surge) and a small heater will deplete these batteries in less than 4 hours @ 600watts,..less @ 1500watts.
I have the most efficient roof top A/C unit that draws 1540watts and will only run for 2 to 3 hours tops.
Now, if I use everything except a heater or A/C,microwave(for more than 10 minutes)
Fridge
tank heaters
32" lcd tv with dvd player
computer
fax
battery chargers for all the stuff (cell phones,comp)
led light strips
The batteries will last indefinitly with the power from the solar panels charging them.
I have all these batteries being charged by a 165amp alt.

I went to profesionals to size up this system, and the "numbers" said the battery bank would run a 1600watt unit for 10 to 14 hrs.
It won't and you will fry your alt. if you allow your deep cycles to drop below 11.5 volts (and this will happen quickly) by running any type of heater.
I recommend an Espar/Webasto for your heat and let your deep cycles run your electronics. Your batteries will last a long time and not be subjected to the quick discharge that high draw heaters/A/C units will put your batteries through.Hope this helps, the battery/inverter game can get expensive quick, and these are the lessons I learned from my experiment.

SteveBooth · Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 3501

Yup, Doghouse is right. I've experienced this first hand. I have 4 yellow top Optima batteries and killed them real quick using a 1500 watt heater for only a few hours. Then, when I started my truck to recharge the batteries the alternator burned up the second time.

Your alternator is not there to recharge batteries, it's there to maintain a full charge and not to resurrect the dead. When I got my new Optima batteries there was a notice to recharge them fully before installing them to prevent damage to the trucks charging system.

There is a lot more to electricity than meets the eye like these 2 interesting facts.

An inverter is ALWAYS draining power from your batteries even though it's not being used. It takes power to create that 110v even though it's not being used.

An 800 watt microwave uses up to 1500 watts to create that 800 watt cooking power!!!

Doghouse · Joined: 21 Mar 2007 Posts: 824

I'm looking at my charge controller for my solar panels right now, and the panels are bringing in 7.1 to 10.5 volts and my battery bank is at 13.4 volts when the sun is out (this will be better during the summer when the sun is higher in the sky).
My inverter is drawing 40watts, my fridge is drawing 180 watts, and my computer is drawing 20watts. All of this is more than covered by the solar panels,....but if I use the microwave (1560watts) it will bring my batteries into the 11.9 volt range and then the solar will have to pick up the charge when I'm done. If it was night time, I would have to run the truck while I ran the micro,...or the batteries would struggle to start me in the A.M., and the alt. will be hot,...way hotter than it should be (if it was under 30 degrees). Because the batteries would be down to 12.2 to 12.4 because of the constant loads I have. And this is on a 1050ah system,600lbs of deep cycle batteries!!

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