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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:16 pm Post subject: Maintenance Manual for a 2000 Freightliner FLD |
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I just bought this 2000 Freightliner FLD with a 3406/C15, 13 Eaton/fuller transmission and Meritor diff. and I’m finding a lot of repairs that I believe are DIY if I have the manual. Does anybody knows were can I get a used cheap one.
Right now I have to replace the foot valve and the part costs $47.00 but labor will be 2 hours or $140.00. I’m a decent car mechanic but no experience with trucks. I also need to replace the drums and brakes on all the axels and that is about an hour each and I herd they are not very different form any other vehicle so I believe I should be able to do it. What do you guys think?
PS. I already I already tried ebay....no luck so far.... |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:33 pm Post subject: Re: Maintenance Manual for a 2000 Freightliner FLD |
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raymundo1 wrote: I just bought this 2000 Freightliner FLD with a 3406/C15, 13 Eaton/fuller transmission and Meritor diff. and I’m finding a lot of repairs that I believe are DIY if I have the manual. Does anybody knows were can I get a used cheap one.
First off talk to Freightliner about their "accessfreightliner" web site. Takes a couple weeks to activate. You can get a parts list for your truck that way. But it is not absolutely necessary. Should be free though. Service manuals are available too but not really necessary and more hassle to get on the Internet.
raymundo1 wrote: Right now I have to replace the foot valve and the part costs $47.00 but labor will be 2 hours or $140.00. I’m a decent car mechanic but no experience with trucks. I also need to replace the drums and brakes on all the axels and that is about an hour each and I herd they are not very different form any other vehicle so I believe I should be able to do it. What do you guys think?
The brake valve can simply be replaced. Get the part number off of it and call your friendly local brake parts house and order a replacement. Then simply take the old one out and put the new one in. Nothing to it. Probably easier than any car you have worked on. Just put the hoses back in the ports they came from.
The brakes themselves are more difficult. First off you are going to need either a big (4-6') bar and socket, or else an air wrench and sockets ($500-700) plus the air to run it. Plus you need the big jack and jack stands. But once you have all that, it is not hard from there on out. The manual for the brakes can be found at www.arvinmeritor.com most likely they are Q plus brakes. Again you will need to get it apart to see part numbers or make measurements and get the correct parts from your brake parts house.
Let me know if you need any and all help, I do this stuff on the side somewhat, and have done it professionally. What you ask is pretty darn simple really.
Birken |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 664
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:50 am Post subject: Re: Maintenance Manual for a 2000 Freightliner FLD |
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raymundo1 wrote: I just bought this 2000 Freightliner FLD with a 3406/C15, 13 Eaton/fuller transmission and Meritor diff. and I’m finding a lot of repairs that I believe are DIY if I have the manual. Does anybody knows were can I get a used cheap one.
Right now I have to replace the foot valve and the part costs $47.00 but labor will be 2 hours or $140.00. I’m a decent car mechanic but no experience with trucks. I also need to replace the drums and brakes on all the axels and that is about an hour each and I herd they are not very different form any other vehicle so I believe I should be able to do it. What do you guys think?
PS. I already I already tried ebay....no luck so far....
I would recommend you get help to do either of these jobs. The treadle valve can cause a lot of heartache once the lines are mixed --- you need some pretty decent knowledge of dual air systems to sort that out (mark the lines before you remove them). The brake re-line is fairly basic... once you have been shown the steps, they are quite different from a car hydraulic brake system. Spring brake actuatorsa have killed many experienced techs in the field :(
2 basic service issues are the cause of most wheel-end separations; improper wheel end adjustment, improper wheel fastener torque... you will require a 3/4" drive 0-600 ftlbs torque wrench to accomplish either with any faith.
Keep in mind; you are talking about servicing the vehicle's brake system --- I strongly recommend you know what you're doing --- my wife and kids share the same roadways... |
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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:19 am Post subject: |
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I do share your concern bob and trust me, I don’t and would not take any chances, specially on the brake or steering systems, if I don’t feel good about something I will not drive until I have some professional check it for me. At the same time taking it to a shop don’t always exempt you from mistakes and I have to start somewhere because I just hate paying too much money for something I could do and maybe even better or more carefully.
Thanks for your encouragement Birken! I went to the Meritor website and found very good information. I do have a log-on to the accesfreightliner.com but I have not been able to get any use for it, I guess I should look more into it . I do have the tools you mention and every time I save money on a DIY I use it on tools Hrg…hrg….hrg….. Nothing like having the right tool to do the job right right?!!?
Finally, I still want to try and get the repair manual, that way I have a reference any time I need it and/or finding more web sites with the information. |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:30 am Post subject: |
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What do you mean when you say "the repair manual"? The manuals for the individual components are the manuals. There is no one manual for the whole truck. Only Freightliner specific items have a Freightliner manual and those are the items you generally don't need a manual to work on. The exceptions might be the suspension.
As far as accessfreightliner goes, what you need there is to get their parts manual working, that way you can order parts before you start a job. For instance you can have the brakes and drums already ready to go before you start. You don't have to order from FL either. ($$$)
For example look up on accessfreightliner the part number for your brake valve. It should be listed under "line" as "HVG". That is Bendix Heavy Vehicle Group. Then cross that number at the Bendix web site. I also have books on that. Or simply order it from your brake parts house as they have the books too obviously. The brakes are the same. You just have to find the part number in their numbers there. Nothing is FL specific for the most part.
Birken |
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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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You know…that’s exactly what I was thinking….a repair manual for the whole truck!.....now I know how stupid it sounds, thanks for the enlighten.
Now as Bob mention it those spring brakes can be killers, I think there is a bolt or tool that you can use on the brake chamber to lock them open right?
I guess what I’m asking for is any pointers you can give me I’ll appreciate them. |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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You don't need to mess with the spring brakes whatsoever. 99.9% of the time you can release them by air only. Modern spring brakes have had crimped bands for years now anyway so you couldn't get into them if you tried. As far as I am concerned there is no reason to take the REAR band off a spring brake, ever, nor is there ever much reason to use the caging bolt. But it sounds like you want to do a reline and you don't need to go near the spring brakes for that.
Look at the arvinmeritor site for the manual for the brakes. Maintenance Manual 4 is the one you want for the brakes I am 90% sure unless you have discs or something off brand. The brake valve is a little more because I don't know what exactly it is. But if you go to this page you will find the brake valve manuals along with subsequent pages. "Service data sheet" is what you are looking for. However you don't need the manual to R&I all you need is to tag the lines to go back in the same places.
Feel free if you need any help.
Birken[/url] |
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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:05 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks a lot and I'll get to it as soon as I can. I;ll let you know how it went..... |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:12 am Post subject: |
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A couple more things for you. When you do a brake reline two items are often overlooked or ignored. However you need to replace the anchor pins and bushings (takes a big driver) and also the cam shaft bushings and seals. It can make a big difference in preventing brake chatter (howling) and who knows what else.
Birken |
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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm buying the brake kit, will those parts you are referring to will be included or do I have to buy them separated? Am I going to need any special tools to do this job? Tx again |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 664
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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raymundo1 wrote: I'm buying the brake kit, will those parts you are referring to will be included or do I have to buy them separated? Am I going to need any special tools to do this job? Tx again
The hardware kit should include anchor pins and bushings; I only replace the bushings if they worn (new pin fits loosely) or the old pin is seized into the bushing. Make sure you assemble with high temp grease on the I.D. of the anchor bushing. If the old pin is seized; cut out the center with a torch. |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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raymundo1 wrote: I'm buying the brake kit, will those parts you are referring to will be included or do I have to buy them separated? Am I going to need any special tools to do this job? Tx again
The anchor pin bushings will be but the cam shaft bushings will not. Either you will have to look them up on Freightliner Parts or else remove them once you get the brakes apart and get the replacements by dimension.
Lots of people skip this step. To remove the cam bushings the cam shafts must be removed which means removing the hub. To remove the hub means to remove the axle shaft for the drivers and of course you need to replace the oil seals at that point. It takes what would normally be an hour long brake job and turns it into an all day project. But it is "what the manufacturer specifies." So whether to disregard it is your decision. At least when you get the brakes apart, grab the cam shaft head and see if it wobbles around too much, if it does, you need to rebush it, also there should be no grease pushing out past the seal there or you need to redo the seal (same drill) at which point you might as well rebush it anyway.
Your choice!
Also FWIW I always replace anchor pin bushings because it is so easy to do and they are included in the kit.
Birken |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 664
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 6:33 am Post subject: |
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Birken Vogt wrote: raymundo1 wrote: I'm buying the brake kit, will those parts you are referring to will be included or do I have to buy them separated? Am I going to need any special tools to do this job? Tx again
The anchor pin bushings will be but the cam shaft bushings will not. Either you will have to look them up on Freightliner Parts or else remove them once you get the brakes apart and get the replacements by dimension.
Lots of people skip this step. To remove the cam bushings the cam shafts must be removed which means removing the hub. To remove the hub means to remove the axle shaft for the drivers and of course you need to replace the oil seals at that point. It takes what would normally be an hour long brake job and turns it into an all day project. But it is "what the manufacturer specifies." So whether to disregard it is your decision. At least when you get the brakes apart, grab the cam shaft head and see if it wobbles around too much, if it does, you need to rebush it, also there should be no grease pushing out past the seal there or you need to redo the seal (same drill) at which point you might as well rebush it anyway.
Your choice!
Also FWIW I always replace anchor pin bushings because it is so easy to do and they are included in the kit.
Birken
S-cam bushings are serviced based on a camshaft end-play measurement. Excessive camshaft end-play is often caused by s-cam journal wear as well.
Make sure you don't mix up the cams (they don't work in the wrong side of the vehicle).
Anchor pin bushings are easy for an experienced tech to replace. I think that main bearings are easy to replace in a celect engine, but I'm not gonna recommend it to anyone who'd like to try it.
If it ain't broke... don't fix it. You could be getting yourself into a mess for nothing.
my2c |
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raymundo1
Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 21
Location: NM
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| Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:01 am Post subject: |
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Well Bob……..I changed the brake valve yesterday and I checked, double checked and then triple checked and I can bet I got the houses connected right but…… now when I depress the brake pedal there is a lot of air coming out of a yellow hose that seems to be right on top of the changed valve and this hose seems to come from inside the cabin.
I try to find the literature for this valve (part # Bendix BXOR286171B1) with no luck. There is two more part #’s on the part itself: T290181E and T290182C. Do you know what I did or what is wrong with it now? |
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Birken Vogt
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
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| Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:02 am Post subject: |
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Is ia a yellow hose that the air is coming from, coming out of the cab and has just an open end? If so, its normal purpose is to vent the air when you pop the park valve. Unfortunately my memory is dim now on how this system works but if you can look at Wiring Pro on the Freightliner manuals you can see how the air hoses are routed.
If yours is like mine you will have a 1/2" red and green hose coming up from the tanks. This goes to the SUP ports on the bottom. Then across from these there are two additional SUP ports that go to 3/8" red and green hoses through the firewall. There should also be red and green DEL hoses going down back along the 1/2" supply hoses; these actuate the brakes. And finally there is probably a double check valve screwed into the upper DEL port with the other DEL hose looped back to it and a 1/4" black hose going through the firewall. Am I right so far?
One thing I can think of is you might have mixed up one of the red or green hoses that goes through the firewall and the MV-3 park brake valve is in the "middle" position. Do this test. Run the system up to full pressure. Shut off the engine. Drain the front air to zero. Now attempt to release the tractor park brakes with the yellow knob. They should release and apply just like normal. Now run the air pressure up again and stop the engine. Drain the rear air to zero. Again attempt to release the park brakes. Again they should release just like normal.
Post a picture of the valve and its plumbing if you can.
Birken |
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