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COLT
Joined: 03 Jan 2006
Posts: 576
Location: FT ST JOHN
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:29 am Post subject: |
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| "The drivers side tire was cupped on the out side, but still had a lot of tread on it. The passenger side was in good shape and was not cupped." I THINK, you have the answer. "Use the force Luke" :lol: |
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Neckster
Joined: 24 Jul 2005
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:40 am Post subject: |
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| Please explain... what do you mean? The T.A. can't get me in until Monday, and I don't know of anyone else around who could balance the tires... this sucks... new tires and nothing but problems! |
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Rev.Vassago
Joined: 04 Apr 2006
Posts: 6126
Location: The other side of the coin
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:47 am Post subject: Re: updated Info... |
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Neckster wrote: So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?
Thanks.
Yes - stop going to truck stops for your tire needs, and go to a REPUTABLE tire shop. :wink: |
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COLT
Joined: 03 Jan 2006
Posts: 576
Location: FT ST JOHN
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:51 am Post subject: |
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| Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins! |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 670
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:51 am Post subject: |
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COLT wrote: Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins!
He has already explained that the truck did not shake before the tires were replaced... even with the cupped driver's side tire.
Oh, since you've brought it up; what exactly do you think causes cupping on the outer edge of a driver's side tire?
Next, how do you think they managed to throw off the alignment by installing new steer tires?
Just curious... it's got make sense to me... otherwise, it's just an opinion. |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 670
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 11:05 am Post subject: Re: updated Info... |
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Neckster wrote: Well I went back to the T.A. where I had the new tires installed. I advised them of the problem and they said they would check it out. A different Tech. said the tires were not balanced properly in the first place and he would correct it. So after spin balancing them he adds and changes where the wheel weights are located on the tires, then he switched sides with tire/rim. He mentioned that my one rim was a little out of whack. He added 12 weights to one, and 8 to the other. He said this should work fine. He also advised me the on one wheel 4 lugs were loose, and the other wheel had 2 lugs loose from the guy who changed the tires before, apparently he never tightened them properly. Then I asked if they were torqued, and he said they don't have a torque wrench, as he's been trying to have the T.A. buy one.
I was in a hurry as I was under a load and needed to move quickly. I did not get to take it for a test drive. So I left. Well I get down the road and low and behold the shack and shimmy is still there at about 30 mph. It appears that nothing has changed at all. As indicated before with the old tires there was never any shake or shimmy... none.
So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?
Thanks.
Are the tires running true (is it wobbling side to side or bouncing up and down)? You need to look at this yourself, the techs will ignore it.
What do you mean by "spin-balancing"... on or off the vehicle?
An egg-shaped tire will balance, but the heavy side will cause it to "tramp" or slap the road as it spins under a load.
Tell them sternly; "There was no shaking before the tire replacement... why is it shaking now?!?"
If you want to verify the alignment - - place a protractor or angle finder...
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.radiohaingoai.com/install/Hinh%25201%2520Magnetic%2520Protractor.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.radiohaingoai.com/install/&h=480&w=640&sz=40&hl=en&start=22&tbnid=MUSab_2P9WmgzM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dprotractor%26start%3D20%26ndsp%3D20%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN
...on the flat part of the axle just beside the springs/u-bolts... then, post what you find. |
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SteveBooth
Joined: 18 May 2005
Posts: 3501
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Make sure you come back and post the outcome when you get the problem solved. |
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Neckster
Joined: 24 Jul 2005
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:06 am Post subject: |
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Here's what happened... The mech. at the T.A. checked my front end out and said that my kingpins were bad, specially the passenger side. He said it had about an inch of free play and this could be the problem.
He suggested I take it down the road to a big-truck garage, which I did not know was even there. Supposedly I have to wait until Monday when this tech. comes back to work. Then he will look at it again.
Ok, so I head down the road to the big-truck garage to have a certified mech. look at it and give me his written opinion on the front end.
After $81.00 for an hours worth of work, here's his opinion and suggestions, and what he found.
This is a top notch mechanic with 28 years of experience and no beating around the bush!
1. There is nothing wrong with the kingpins
2. There is nothing wrong with the front end parts at all, everything is tight
3. Wheel bearings are in good shape
4. Shocks are all good
5. Springs are all good
6. Steering parts are all good
7. Wheel alignment ok, he checked the old fashion way.
----------------
He did find one wheel bearing slightly loose and tightened it to spec.
He indicated the problem is the TIRES period! The tires are either bad from the factory, or they are not balanced properly. He also said that there could be a rim out of whack due to not being torqued and/or the lugs being loose, but he would put money on the tires being bad or not balanced properly.
He could not believe that the TA never torque the lugs, and doesn’t even own a torque wrench.
I'll keep you posted as to the out come.
Thanks! |
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COLT
Joined: 03 Jan 2006
Posts: 576
Location: FT ST JOHN
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:05 am Post subject: |
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| If a tire is cupping, wearing uneven, something is wrong, period. Worn front end parts, toe in, soft springs, (ride height) shocks, something could be bent, but still tight. A simple (old fashioned ) toe in check, means nothing. Rear suspension problems can cause front tire wear. The last tires were replaced because of uneven tire wear, new tires go on, IS the original problem fixed? A bad drive tire can cause vibration, that seems to come from the front. Dose the vibration get better with a load on ? |
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Neckster
Joined: 24 Jul 2005
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:31 am Post subject: |
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I was told that the cupping of the tire was mainly from either over inflation or under inflation. I was also told that if the lugs were not torqued and were loose this could cause the holes to become egg shaped and this could be part of the problem.
Whatever the problem is, it's very annoying to drive a truck like this, especially at around 30 mph, as this speed is used most of the time within cities.
Also remember THIS DID NOT HAPPEN WITH THE OLD TIRES, maybe I should have left the old tires on.
My suggestion would be to put a used tire on one side without balancing it first, if that don't work try to balance it and put it back on. Or maybe another rim and tire from the rear, or another known good rim and tire.
I’ve already put over 1,000 miles on the tires. |
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COLT
Joined: 03 Jan 2006
Posts: 576
Location: FT ST JOHN
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:40 am Post subject: |
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| Over inflation will wear the center, under inflation will wear the outside edges, egg shaped lug holes ? Well that would not be good! Something cupped your last set of tires. |
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JAXLE67
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Posts: 16
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| Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Lots of times many tire guys wont put the tire lube on when the mount the tires causing the bead not to pop out evenly leaving u with a out of round condition that will shake no matter who or how its balanced. It could be just out of round period. The worst out of round bald junkiest tire can be balanced but if it doesnt roll round then its gonna bounce. my advice is go to a real truck shop that can spin them up on the truck then u can see whats up |
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Krzysztof
Joined: 10 Nov 2006
Posts: 149
Location: Marion, AR
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| Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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allan5oh wrote: Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!
As a former mechanic on Cars, Pickups, and Semi's I have to dispute this on one front. Steel wheels you're correct, however on Aluminum wheels the metal will actually stretch when the lug is tightened (stretch as in accomdate the lugnut not making the lug fit the hole properly). So you DO need to re-tighten them after 50-100 miles to make sure they're all still tight. After that recheck unless you take the wheel off again they're good to go. |
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bob h
Joined: 15 Oct 2006
Posts: 670
Location: Nb
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| Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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Krzysztof wrote: allan5oh wrote: Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!
As a former mechanic on Cars, Pickups, and Semi's I have to dispute this on one front. Steel wheels you're correct, however on Aluminum wheels the metal will actually stretch when the lug is tightened (stretch as in accomdate the lugnut not making the lug fit the hole properly). So you DO need to re-tighten them after 50-100 miles to make sure they're all still tight. After that recheck unless you take the wheel off again they're good to go.
'sup?
I disagree. Steel wheels will settle-in as well, following the initial torque.
If this re-torquing concept was a major undertaking, I could see reason for argument, most shops will probably do this re-torque for free... where's the issue? |
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allan5oh
Joined: 26 Aug 2005
Posts: 2233
Location: jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
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| Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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I don't know, I used to do the re-torque all the time. Problem is was I was running nights, and it was a PITA. Every single time, the nuts didn't budge.
All the failures I've seen(some MUCH less then 50 miles) have been due to the initial torque being wrong. Torquing isn't the only issue either. |
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