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xzostd1 · Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 102

What cannot be done with a in-frame rebuild?? Why would you pull the block? I'm planning on purchasing a higher mileage used tractor and am planning on doing a in-frame with a rebuilt head before I put it on the road. I would probably do a clutch at the same time.

I am a skilled auto and diesel mechanic (not on heavy trucks). I have no problem buying any tool or equip. that I may need.

All advice and suggestions are appreciated
Bill

BigDaddyD · Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 91 Location: Colville, WA

IIRC you can do everything with the engine between the frame rails.

duck · Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:29 pm Post subject:

1. I am not a mechanic.

FWIW - an inframe is a large job. If I was not well versed in heavy diesel applications - don't know if I would tackle it. You will need a stout hoist for the head with decent reach -- remember your typical 2k engine hoist loses capacity as it gets farther away from the center of the hoist.

You will need to be sure you set injector heights correctly.

Last I heard on an inframe - was something like 40-ish hours of labor. Do you have the time? Remember that is for an expirenced wrench with all the right tools to begin with.

Are you well versed enough to know what's what with your turbo and air to air? Can you tell if they are good/bad? Other high dollar items.

Do you have acces to ECM download to make sure things are running well?

This is just me but unless I was expirenced -- I wouldn't do an inframe as a starter job. Too much money in parts, tools and headaches. No warrenty also.

I would either buy a tractor with lower miles or pony up the $$ and have a professional shop do the work.

If you decide to do it yourself - good luck. I mean that but I would say you are tempting too many fates if you are not a very expirenced mechanic with the particular engine you are doing.

If you screw it up and ruin the motor - not only are you out the $$ you spent on tools, parts and down time - you have no one to go back after for warrenty work. You have the tractor down again and may need to go whole engine. (high dollar item too - think 20k + for some CATs)

LOAD IT · Joined: 02 Sep 2006 Posts: 614

xzostd1 wrote: What cannot be done with a in-frame rebuild?? Why would you pull the block? I'm planning on purchasing a higher mileage used tractor and am planning on doing a in-frame with a rebuilt head before I put it on the road. I would probably do a clutch at the same time.

I am a skilled auto and diesel mechanic (not on heavy trucks). I have no problem buying any tool or equip. that I may need.

All advice and suggestions are appreciated
Bill

Go for it!!! What are you thinking about rebuilding CAT, CUMMINS, DETROIT? Keep us posted.

special k · Joined: 10 Jul 2005 Posts: 254 Location: Ontario Canada

Most shops will draw the line at crank work. You can drop the crank while in the frame but can be done better and often easier out of the frame. A lot of times you can hire a mechanic to work after hours at your shop to help you through the tough spots. That being said it does work out better to pay the big bucks for an inframe unless time isn't an issue and you want to know every nut and bolt on your engine :lol:

RockyMtnProDriver · Joined: 12 Jun 2005 Posts: 1558 Location: Cranbrook BC

Most good shops will take out the block if the crank needs to be done. Also, if you need to have the block line bored then it would have to come out for sure.

Mr. Bighead · Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 136

I wouldn't recommend that you do it yourself unless you have a manual and a shop from which you can borrow tools and get advice. I've done major work on several different heavy duty truck engines. Each type of engine has its own special problems that you need to check for, its own special tools that you need to do the job, and its own unique procedures. The manual will walk you through the procedures, but you'll likely need some special tools, and you'll be a lot better off if you can get advice from someone experienced with the particular engine you're working on. Regardless of how good a mechanic you are, it always helps to get advice from someone who has actually done the job.

So what kind of engine is it? I can offer advice on certain engines, and I'm sure others here can too.

xzostd1 · Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 102

Mr. Bighead wrote: I
So what kind of engine is it? I can offer advice on certain engines, and I'm sure others here can too.

I'm looking at Volvos with N14s. (see my other subject line in this discussion group) I do have a friend who is well versed and has many special tools including sleeve tools, injector testing equip. , etc.

Bill

Mr. Bighead · Joined: 16 Mar 2006 Posts: 136

If it's an N14, and you have the time, and he has the tools, then go for it. You don't need a hoist to remove the heads. Its cam is in the block, so you don't have to worry about gear lash and timing. If you're just doing the basic pistons/liners and bearings, it's a relatively simple and straightforward job on an n14.

You COULD just get a volvo engine, and it likely won't need to be rebuilt. :P

watevr777 · Joined: 14 Nov 2005 Posts: 85 Location: Louisiana

In frame is pistons , liners.bearings,and gaskets ...you can add a re man head and injectors and turbo
All engine Manufactures have in frame kits from just pistons, liners , bearing and gaskets ...to all the above plus head ,Inj turbo or any combo

The only thing you Will have a problem with is pulling the liners and when re installing them You need to have the deck height checked and if the coolant has pitted the liner seat have the counter bores cut ( you can have a guy come out and cut the counter bores and check the height

The other problem is setting the injectors you need to buy a Gauge and know how to use it

Head bolts Torque around 200ft lbs, mains around 400

Detroit's Have a problem with the Bull Gear (inside the front cover ) with high mileage

bob h · Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 670 Location: Nb

N14 injectors do not require a height gauge. These head bolts do not torque at 200 lbs - this is a Cummins, you will have to work to torque these headbolts!

Watch for a tiny, green fountain when you pull the injectors (leaking injector tubes). Be sure to support the crank when plasti-gageing the mains; in some CPLs, fretting was a concern. Remove the spray nozzles before breaking them off with a con-rod "big end", this results in a real oil pressure nightmare ;( Lower mains are fitted to the block - NOT the caps (very important). That's a start, I suppose ;o)

xzostd1 · Joined: 25 Mar 2006 Posts: 102

thanks for all the great info...keep it coming
Bill

bob h · Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 670 Location: Nb

xzostd1 wrote: What cannot be done with a in-frame rebuild?? Why would you pull the block? I'm planning on purchasing a higher mileage used tractor and am planning on doing a in-frame with a rebuilt head before I put it on the road. I would probably do a clutch at the same time.

I am a skilled auto and diesel mechanic (not on heavy trucks). I have no problem buying any tool or equip. that I may need.

All advice and suggestions are appreciated
Bill

An in-frame overhaul consists of ; connecting rod bearings, main bearings, pistons/wrist pins/rings, liners (wet sleeves), cylinder head overhaul (valve train, injector tubes, re-surface) or replace, turbocharger inspection or replace, fuel injectors inspection or replace, engine brake overhaul, valve/injector/engine brake adjustment. Additionally, an intake system test, fuel supply system test, and a break-in procedure.

The engine would come out of chassis for ; Cylinder block or crankshaft work.

A block cannot be removed with the engine in chassis.

In order to lower out the crankshaft, the engine would be entirely suspended. At that point, the engine is disconnected from the truck chassis... you might as well take it out and work on the engine stand, instead of crawling around between the frame rails.

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