Truck Driving Jobs

|

Trucking Jobs

|

Truck Drivers

|

Trucking Companies

 
New Users Register Free Account Here | Existing Forum Members Log In Here
Home | About Us | Contact Us | Testimonials

Class A Drivers.com

Application          Company Listings          Job Search        Load Board
 
  1.   Welcome to the Truck Driving Message Board - ClassADrivers.

    1. Welcome to Class A Drivers Forums

          Already registered? Login above

      OR
       
      To take advantage of all the site's features, become a member of
      the largest community of Truck Drivers.

      The advertising to the left will not show if you are a registered user.

Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Intermittent start on Detroit Series 60

  1. #1
    JKenworth's Avatar
    JKenworth is offline Rookie
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    8

    Default Intermittent start on Detroit Series 60

    On my 99 KW with a Series 60 engine, at times and very random, I will turn the key to START and nothing.
    No click, no sound..zip. Does this hot or cold.

    If I back off and turn it again, it will usually then turn over and very quickly. Here is what I have done so far:

    1. Replaced all batteries. (4 new AGM 1200CCA each)
    2. Replaced all cables to batteries.
    3. Cleaned connections inside stair area.
    4. Cleaned all connections on Delco Starter.
    5. Cleaned all connections on Delco piggyback solenoid.
    6. Replaced ignition switch and cleaned all connections.
    7. Made sure everything is tight and sprayed with anti-corrosive.

    ...not sure what else to look at. If I heard a click and nothing, then I might suspect the starter perhaps.

    Does anyone know if there is an additional solenoid after the ignition switch, perhaps on the firewall or ?
    - thats the only thing I can think of before up and replacing the Delco starter and piggyback solenoid.

    Anyone have any thoughts as to anything I may have overlooked?

    -JK
    --
    JKenworth
    Independent Owner/Operator

  2. #2
    barf is offline Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Winterpeg
    Posts
    69

    Default

    Any suggestions? Anyone? I replaced my starter a couple months ago on my International with an ISX, not for the above problem, the starter was going. Now just recently a few times I've had the same problem; "I will turn the key to START and nothing. No click, no sound..zip." After a few times trying I wait a minute, try again and it starts normally like nothing was ever wrong.

  3. #3
    JKenworth's Avatar
    JKenworth is offline Rookie
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Wow. Seems we are in the same boat. It was suggested to replace the Starter relay next. Turns out I did that in July 2010.
    That wasn't it of course. $58....

    Now I am down to the Starter and/or Starter (piggy back) solenoid.

    A new starter will run me about $285, which isn't the end of the world but if that's not it - whats next?

    Perhaps re-run new wire from the ignition key to the starter relay and then from the relay to the solenoid.
    Since once it cranks, she spins over very fast, I have to assume and presume the main cables feeding the starter
    are in good shape. Even when temps are in the teens - she turns over really fast.

    If it's any consolation, Roehl had this same issue on a Freightshaker with a DD-60 in it and did all of this and more
    and still couldn't get rid of the intermittent no-start.

    Barf (heh), at least you have already replaced the most expensive part (except the batteries).

    In your case, look at the starter RELAY as the next possible culprit. They have a disc in them and it can get brittle over time
    and act like this....

    Best of luck-
    --
    JKenworth
    Independent Owner/Operator

  4. #4
    moe
    moe is offline Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lyman,sc
    Posts
    89

    Default

    I know some trucks have an independent solenoid, It's like the solenoid on a ford, on big trucks it has one lug that goes to the starter hot lug and one that goes to the starter solenoid small terminal. That would be the two big lugs. then the small one goes to the switch. It is usually mounted on the frame close to the starter, when you turn the key or push the button the solenoid energizes which in turn energizes the solenoid on the starter. If the small ford style solenoid is bad it will act exactly like you are saying. In fact I had a truck that didn't have the small solenoid and would not start from time to time and I installed a solenoid into the system and never had a problem with it starting again. I hope I'm not confusing you, if so I'll try to explain it better.

  5. #5
    barf is offline Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Winterpeg
    Posts
    69

    Default

    Thanks Moe and JKenworth. Truck is going in to shop when I'm done this trip for a few things. I'm bringing up the intermittent non-start but I can mention the solenoid like I know what I'm talking about. I was thinking (but hoping not) that it's some gremlin wiring problem that could take hours to diagnose, and my local shop would tell me it has to go to International. I hope it is just a solenoid. A dead spot on the new starter crossed my mind, but then why after a minute would it start no-problem? And I did replace the batteries same time as the starter!

  6. #6
    repete's Avatar
    repete is offline Senior Board Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barf View Post
    Thanks Moe and JKenworth. Truck is going in to shop when I'm done this trip for a few things. I'm bringing up the intermittent non-start but I can mention the solenoid like I know what I'm talking about. I was thinking (but hoping not) that it's some gremlin wiring problem that could take hours to diagnose, and my local shop would tell me it has to go to International. I hope it is just a solenoid. A dead spot on the new starter crossed my mind, but then why after a minute would it start no-problem? And I did replace the batteries same time as the starter!
    It's not a dead spot on the starter, if it was you'd still hear a click. To me it sounds like a bad connection on the starter switch itsel or following that wire it may be a bad connection on the above mentioned selanoid.
    Try your best to run it down yourself, a shop is going to bend you over

  7. #7
    allan5oh is offline Senior Board Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
    Posts
    3,189

    Default

    I would run a couple test wires to lights in the dash. That way you can know where the power stops. Put one between the key switch and relay, and one between the relay and the starter solenoid. Next time it doesn't start make sure to keep the key on "start" and look at the lights.

  8. #8
    mitchno1's Avatar
    mitchno1 is offline Board Regular
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    365

    Default

    get the no reply on my t408 bout once a mth 2nd turn of key it jumps into life so not to worried

  9. #9
    mike in idaho is offline Rookie
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    orofino, idaho
    Posts
    21

    Default

    There is another relay switch mounted on the front inside wall of the battery box(next to the ammeter shunt and the main circuit breaker). Did you change it? Sometimes they stick, banging on the front of the battery box,while turning the key will sometimes work.

  10. #10
    chengnuo is offline BANNED Rookie
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Does anyone know if there is an additional solenoid after the ignition switch, perhaps on the firewall or

    Buy World Of Warcraft Gold
    WOW Gold Cheap

  11. #11
    Copperhead's Avatar
    Copperhead is offline Board Regular
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Kellogg, IA
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Had something similar happen in a '96 FLD I was driving years ago. It turned out to be the grounding wire from the cab to the chassis. Might want to take a look at corrosion around something like that.
    A superior driver uses superior judgement to avoid situations which require superior skill.

  12. #12
    barf is offline Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Winterpeg
    Posts
    69

    Default

    I was talking with another driver with a Prostar too. His occasional no-start problem was a $60 clutch pedal sensor. He keeps a spare now as he had to replace two already.

    I misunderstood the first post when I said mine had no click. I was thinking of the click click click sound of a low battery on a car. Mine actually did click but no starter engagement. Turns out the idiot that installed my starter didn't tighten the nut on the positive wire on the solenoid. Amazing it started at all anytime.

  13. This ad will disappear if you login

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Trucking Companies | Trucking Job Search | Online Job Application | Trucking Links | Truck Drivers Message Board | Contact Us | Site Map


Truck Driving Jobs © 2003 - 2012 ClassADrivers.com
 

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0