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Thread: Best Truck?

  1. #1
    Wiley is offline Rookie
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    Default Best Truck?

    What truck is the most dependable and at the same time has the lowest repair cost? I don't want a truck that is dependable but at the same time cost an arm n leg to repair when something breaks nor do I want a truck that has low repair cost but needs service all the time.

  2. #2
    allan5oh is offline Senior Board Member
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    If true dependability and lower repair costs is what you want do not buy a truck 2004 or newer. They went with emissions garbage on those trucks that cost a lot, plus they're less reliable and get less MPG.

  3. #3
    Musicman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiley View Post
    I don't want a truck that is dependable but at the same time cost an arm n leg to repair when something breaks nor do I want a truck that has low repair cost but needs service all the time.
    You want a unicorn for your birthday, too, right?
    "The Breakfast of Champions isn't cereal, it's the competition!" - "Success is how high you bounce when you hit bottom." - "An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile, hoping it will eat him last."

  4. #4
    Wiley is offline Rookie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Musicman View Post
    You want a unicorn for your birthday, too, right?
    Sure, you got one lol

  5. #5
    Wiley is offline Rookie
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    Quote Originally Posted by allan5oh View Post
    If true dependability and lower repair costs is what you want do not buy a truck 2004 or newer. They went with emissions garbage on those trucks that cost a lot, plus they're less reliable and get less MPG.
    All trucks? What Manufacturer would you recommend. I'm thinking Pete or Volvo.

  6. #6
    firebird_1252 is offline Board Regular
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    the best truck is the one that does not break down. want down right dependable? old big cam 350 cummins.

  7. #7
    Musicman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiley View Post
    All trucks? What Manufacturer would you recommend. I'm thinking Pete or Volvo.
    With ALL trucks, the pre EGR / ACERT / DPF models are more reliable. All the anti-emission hardware has done is make the vehicle much more complicated, much more trouble prone and much more expensive to repair, not to mention much LESS fuel efficient.

    I made the remark about the unicorn because like it, the trouble free and / or inexpensive to maintain class 8 truck is a mythical thing… it doesn’t exist. Yes, there are folks who get lucky and get a truck that they have no problems with for a million miles, but most trucks will have their problems and there is NOTHING cheap on a truck to repair or replace, with the exception of shocks and a few other items.

    In general, Freightliners and Volvos have been the choice of larger companies because those manufacturers have catered to the big companies and made lower cost, stripped down models for them. Peterbilt, Western Star and Kenworth have traditionally been the most commonly sought after by owner operators for a variety of reasons. Macks have been the choice for off-road and specialized use for many decades. While many operators view them as indestructible, many have also found them a bit peculiar to operate.

    As far as engines go, Detroit Diesel (mostly Freightliner) engines have generally had the reputation for being the least expensive engines to work on, but many folks think they are also the least dependable. When I owned a Pete with a CAT engine, the joke when it came time to hear what a repair was going to cost me was that “yellow paint sure is expensive.” Now that I own a Pete with a Cummins ISX, I’m always told at the Cummins and Pete dealers how expensive Cummins components are… go figure.

    The industry accepted cost per mile for maintenance on trucks has been ten to fourteen cents per mile, no matter what the make and model of the truck. I think a lot of it depends on how you drive the truck and how well you keep up with the “little things”. Little things left unattended to will almost assuredly turn into much bigger, much more expensive things. The key is to have the knowledge to see something starting to go wrong before it leaves you stranded on the highway somewhere.
    "The Breakfast of Champions isn't cereal, it's the competition!" - "Success is how high you bounce when you hit bottom." - "An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile, hoping it will eat him last."

  8. #8
    firebird_1252 is offline Board Regular
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    i'll agree with everything musicman said!

    i have the "crap" cat (mbn motor) and so far i love it. i get what i consider good fuel milage with it (5.5-6.5.. somehow i got 7 out of it one tank ) i go up and down i81 and i83 always at gross running a average of 65mph. however, if i could, i'd get rid of my columbia in a heart beat for a 9400 with a ISX.

  9. #9
    Musicman's Avatar
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    I did forget to mention Sterling and International, didn't I? I focussed on Volvo, Freightliner, and Paccar because I think they have the biggest market share, but International is a force to be reckoned with in some areas.

    By the way, I'm averaging just over 7 mpg with my 500HP '06 ISX (EGR programming removed) pulling a 2006 Utility with a Carrier reefer grossing 80k lbs. I'm finally replacing the stock muffler with 750k miles on it with a Pittsburg Power performance model that I hope will add a few tenths to my mpg.
    "The Breakfast of Champions isn't cereal, it's the competition!" - "Success is how high you bounce when you hit bottom." - "An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile, hoping it will eat him last."

  10. #10
    allan5oh is offline Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiley View Post
    All trucks? What Manufacturer would you recommend. I'm thinking Pete or Volvo.
    Do yourself a favor and go to each dealership and look at the older used trucks. I would prefer an aerodynamic truck (volvo, t600, etc..) in that range. Stay away from the t2000, a few problems with that truck. The freightliner columbia and century are cheap trucks as well, the interiors are not very good quality. But keep an open mind.

    You'll love the quality of a kenworth w9/t8/t6 interior or a 379 interior. But keep in mind they are not as aerodynamic as a volvo.

    Trucks really are the same underneath, there's not a whole hell of a lot of difference. Especially pre 2003 when there was a lot more engine options. Now you have to go with either the OEM engine (navistar for international, paccar for kenworth/peterbilt, volvo for volvo, mack for mack, detroit for freightliner/western star) or some offer the cummins engine as well.

    Most trucks have similar frames, front axles, rear axles, trannys, options it's just a matter of finding one that suits your needs. The guys say brand x or nothing are really blowing smoke.

  11. #11
    firebird_1252 is offline Board Regular
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    musicman what gears and trans you have? i'm trying to talk my dad in to a 06 9400 with a isx


    allen, i totally agree with you.. but i think i got lucky, my columbia is rock solid.. but its a CA truck. the only thing i gotta say is that freightliner is like a cheap car.. and it feels that way. my whole interior is 100% intact but the paint is pealing on the plastic and what not. my dad has a 94 t800 and it feels and drives like its new as well. personally i'd love to get a t800 or a 9400 next.. we'll see.

  12. #12
    Wiley is offline Rookie
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird_1252 View Post
    musicman what gears and trans you have? i'm trying to talk my dad in to a 06 9400 with a isx


    allen, i totally agree with you.. but i think i got lucky, my columbia is rock solid.. but its a CA truck. the only thing i gotta say is that freightliner is like a cheap car.. and it feels that way. my whole interior is 100% intact but the paint is pealing on the plastic and what not. my dad has a 94 t800 and it feels and drives like its new as well. personally i'd love to get a t800 or a 9400 next.. we'll see.
    To comment on the paint peeling on the plastic. There is nothing that can be done about that, I have seen that on all types of cars. These cars don't have much over 50,000 miles on them lol

  13. #13
    firebird_1252 is offline Board Regular
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    its minor and i really dont care about it. its me and my dog in the truck, i didnt buy it new and it was like that when i bought it.. lol if it was new when i bought it then i'd do something. what i cant stand is broken plastic. main thing in trucking is keeping the truck rolling safely. in my book that takes top priority.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird_1252 View Post
    musicman what gears and trans you have? i'm trying to talk my dad in to a 06 9400 with a isx.
    I've got an Eaton Autoshift 10 (RTO16910C-AS2) and 3.55 gears.
    "The Breakfast of Champions isn't cereal, it's the competition!" - "Success is how high you bounce when you hit bottom." - "An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile, hoping it will eat him last."

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    Mack!
    Truck Driving an occupation consisting of hours of boredom interrupted by sheer terror!!

    "All the coolie carriers suck. Log 70, work 80-100, paid for 50." - the Great ColdFrostyMug



  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiley View Post
    What truck is the most dependable and at the same time has the lowest repair cost? I don't want a truck that is dependable but at the same time cost an arm n leg to repair when something breaks nor do I want a truck that has low repair cost but needs service all the time.
    359 Pete. Very nice truck, and very dependable. You wouldn't have to worry about all the computer junk. At the same time, repairs could be highly expensive, due to the age of the truck. Might also have to wait for them to find the older parts. Not the best fuel milage, due to the shape of the not-so aerodynamic body style, but....

    you would be sitting in a low-riding, classic truck, looking down the long hood, that would give you a vast imagination of sitting a horse, on top of a bluff, watching the sun rise. You would also have the luxery of the corvette dash..

  17. #17
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    I have owned several brands of trucks. There really isn't much difference in maintenance costs. Most brands have some parts that are proprietary and those are always more expensive. One of the lower maintenance trucks that I have owned has been my International. I think that much of that can be attributed to my changing oil at 15,000 miles since I bought it and when something goes wrong, I try to get it repaired as quickly as possible. I owned a Peterbilt that seemed to have a problem with an engine oil leak, but the rest of the truck was in good shape. I own a KW that has given good service, so far. Before buying any truck I do a thorough check and attempt to get the maintenance records. Some fleets don't do a good job with their maintenance. If you keep your speed down and maintenance up you should have pretty good service from anything that you buy. Don't be fooled by specific brands. A KW or Peterbilt is no more reliable than a Freightliner or International. I am not sure that I would buy a Volvo. They have had some electrical problems in recent years. The hoods are a little easier to work on, but you will usually pay a premium to buy. No truck is cheap to work on. They all cost a lot of money when it comes to buying parts or finding a reliable mechanic. One thing that I would advise you against is buying any truck with a brand specific engine. For instance, I would stay away from Mercedes, Volvo and Mack engines. You will usually need to go back to the dealer for repairs and they will normally charge a premium for working on them. Your options may also be limited when it comes to finding parts. I would stick with Cummins, Detroit or CAT engines. Parts are usually widely available and most garages can work on them.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMAN View Post
    One thing that I would advise you against is buying any truck with a brand specific engine. For instance, I would stay away from Mercedes, Volvo and Mack engines. You will usually need to go back to the dealer for repairs and they will normally charge a premium for working on them. Your options may also be limited when it comes to finding parts.
    That can also be a good thing. Cuz when you do go to the dealer they can work on the whole truck. Cuz everything is MACK. Most shops i been to work on MACKs. Now i live in PA so there are tons of macks around here. Out west may be a another story.
    Truck Driving an occupation consisting of hours of boredom interrupted by sheer terror!!

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  19. #19
    GPC
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    They are all the same. They all break down, old or new. And they all cost alot to repair, old or new. Now with that said I prefer Peterbilts but, that is just my prefernce.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackman View Post
    That can also be a good thing. Cuz when you do go to the dealer they can work on the whole truck. Cuz everything is MACK. Most shops i been to work on MACKs. Now i live in PA so there are tons of macks around here. Out west may be a another story.
    I suppose that is a true statement, but you also will have to pay the dealer rates for repairs and their margin for parts. I avoid Cummins as much as possible regarding my engine, avoid the OEM dealer as much as possible for other repairs. I use an independent shop that provides quality work at rates that beat the dealers, and they back any repair. About a year ago, while getting some other stuff done, my shop diagnosed and changed out the carrier bearing. The new one literally came apart roughly 2000 miles later on the road. Shane, the guy that owns and operates Pro Diesel in Des Moines is the shop I use and he reimbursed me for the road service and parts. No questions asked. All he wanted was the failed carrier bearing so that he could get credit for it at his supplier. Very few dealers will back their work that far. They may credit you the parts, but few will actually reimburse for the total road repair charge.

    And regarding brands.... most of the components in whatever brand truck are not actual OEM truck brand stuff, except for body and chassis, and of course, some engines. Most everything is made by third party outfits. The OEM dealers get to mark up the parts and resell. You could get the same Eaton, Merritor, Bendix, Haldex, or whatever brand that the part is manufactured by, at numerous parts suppliers at a lower cost. You just don't have the truck OEM brand label on the box. And regarding engines like Cat, Cummins, and Detroit, you can have various locations compete in pricing for components. For instance, I can get a camshaft from a local Peterbilt dealer for a lot less than going direct to Cummins (had to do that recently). Some other parts I can get less at the International dealer. Sometimes can get a good deal on a part from the Freightliner dealer. Most times, I get components or parts from non dealer suppliers. Heck, I have made some pretty good deals on places like Ebay for non critical items like mudflap hangers, lights, etc. A while back I got some stainless steel mudflap hangers thru an Ebay seller, brand new, for less than the standard painted steel ones at the dealer. Identical OEM design manufactured by the supplier that provides them to the truck manufacturer.

    I suppose one would live in their comfort zone by going to the dealer all the time. Nothing wrong with that. I am just a bean counting fool. I like the ability to purchase real components (not cheap knock offs) at a broad range of locations so that I can get the best pricing. If I am tied to an OEM engine and such, it severely limits the options. And truth be told, the truck OEM's make very, very little of any components themselves. Almost everything is out sourced. Even Ford does not make the valves for their engines, for instance (have hauled a lot of valves out of Kearney, NE going to the Ford Cleveland engine plant). And not sure about the DD15, but John Deere made all the Series 60 blocks for Detroit Diesel (I hauled a lot of those). Most times, the companies that make components for the various OEM's usually have the same items available under their own name, and usually at lower cost.

    The dealerships are not always a bad thing, but most times, you can do better elsewhere. And you can improve your odds by staying away form OEM specific components. I guess that is why I never considered anything other than a Cat, Cummins, or Detroit engine for example. They can be worked on by just about every shop and parts are readily available in most cases.
    Last edited by Copperhead; 10-19-2011 at 05:19 PM.
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